Thank you.
Great information I tested the 10 amp fuse good tested the 7.4 amps fuse inside dash board very good with key on and off.
Teste injector relay, the main engine relay it clicks I pulled out these relays tested, and all the battery side powers all good, and control power from ECU all good except the open circuit relay no control power with key off and with key on, no control power, 5v reference voltage.
Mr. Ken you said a circuit has to be loaded, it was tested with key off reason I did not use test light on positive to test ground wire control side because I was afraid to send 12 volts into the ECU control ground and I was tempted to send 12 volts with power probe into control positive side I stopped myself.
Now, I have to pull the computer out and find the connector pin to fuel pump and back probe that pin wire for voltage and grounds powers. If I disconnect the connector from ECU, do I use the on meter to test fuel pin to get a reading on a faulty transistor that fails to prime, it gets complicated at this point for me.
If I use the one meter to test the ECU pin wire back to open circuit relay the test can deceive me because of broken or burnt strands will real normal because of one strand that is not burnt but I tested the ground wire at the open circuit relay with om meter connecting meter to chassis ground send a current into control ground control side getting a reading of 048 oms on ECU ground.
I cannot afford all data wire diagrams. Do you suspect the ECU may be the source of the problem?
You did mention piercing the insulation on the black wire going to fuel pump but from where do I follow the wire coming out of the ECU or closer to the fuel pumping am looking for an easier access to fuel wire without taking out the seats to test fuel pump directly.
If it's the fuel pump that is dead, then it does not fix the circuit open relay lack of power on control side?
Respectfully,
Sophie
Thursday, December 26th, 2024 AT 5:25 PM