1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass No Start

Tiny
FASTRACING
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 94,650 MILES
Tried what was suggested to me by Jasonray, The test light lit up when the switch was turned and with the larger one also. Tried to jump the 2 post together to see if it would do something that way and there was very little spark at all. The battery is brand new fully charged. Anymore ideas?
Thanks.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 2:11 PM

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Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
If you turn on the headlites and turn the key to crank, how do the lites react, if they go out, it's usually the battery or cables. Did you take the cables loose on both ends and give them a cleaning? I'd still have to check battery voltage.

At some of the terminals, you said there was voltage, but, not how much? With the key in the crank position, can you tell how much voltage at the starter field terminal, that is the terminal that attaches to the lower part of solenoid and goes down into the starter housing. If you have good voltage there, it might be a poor ground somewhere, faulty starter, or a mechanical engine condition that makes the crank hard to turn.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
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I can turn the crank by hand, voltage on the battery is 13 volts. I haven't been able to get a voltage reading on the solenoid yet, like I said it was a really weak spark. Going to the solenoid is about 5 different wires. 4 of these wires are fusable links and then the cable from the battery, the other post on the solenoid doesn't have a wire one hooked to it. I cleaned all connections on battery and solenoid. When you turn the keys it appears that there is a draw on the battery, the idiot lights on the dash dim when you turn the key. The headlights stay bright if you turn them on and turn the key, but the radio will also lose it's display. I did try another brand new battery and got the same results.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2008 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
I looked at your solenoid& starter combination in the parts book, there is a field terminal in the location that I gave. It probably mounts to the lower part on the end of the solenoid starter solenoid with a small bolt or nut. You can do the voltage testing on the bolt or nut, the key needs to be in the crank position during testing. The tranny should be in park or neutral and the e-brake set. Did you try cranking it in neutral? The fact your headlites stayed bright almost looks like an open circuit, somewhere.
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Wednesday, December 10th, 2008 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
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I wil try that voltage test, yes I did try to crank it in neutral. I thought maybe the neutral safety switch might have gone out, I jiggle the shift lever around to just to make sure that wasn't it.
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Wednesday, December 10th, 2008 AT 9:34 PM

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