Oil Pan and Pump removal and installation

Thanks Joe. I did loosen the transmission mounting bolts. There are a few extra items on your list (trans cooler lines and upper intake manifold), but they don't seem to be the problem. What I could see is the bracket that holds a bunch of items that are part of the air injector emission system. It was bound under the wiper motor. I finally got that disconnected along with some of the hosing along the firewall. The intake plenum doesn't seem to be hitting the firewall, yet, but there is a protruding flange/boss which is part of the trans converter housing which is hitting the underside of the firewall on the driver side. I looked at removing the intake plenum, but I can't even find most of the mounting bolts. And there seems to be way more things to disconnect than the book states to get it out. By the way, another thing no one seems to mention the emission items and bracket I mentioned above and that the power steering pump return line, which I found out the hard and messy way had to be disconnected. I'll look again at the plenum. The engine is now shifted left and only has one lifting bracket (driver side). I'm thinking about putting a fabric sling under the whole thing and try and shift it over. Also, I don't know if you remember or received the replies, I tried to send you under the heading "Loss of Power", but upon removing the oil pump I saw that the pick-up screen was mostly clogged. I'm guessing that was the oil pressure problem.

Hey Joe,

I am attaching some photos of the air piping and emission devices/bracket that was hitting the wiper motor. Also, there are pics of the tab on the trans. that's hitting the firewall. I also attached a photo I got off the web which shows this tab on a E40D transmission. It doesn't seem to be for anything unless it's for another vehicle. There is another one on the opposite side at the rear. Maybe they are for mounting the case to a bench for rebuilding purposes?
I am waiting on a 1/4" drive T40 socket which folks on the web say is needed to remove the inside middle bolt on the intake plenum. I don't know how I'm going to get to the rear ones. Is it really necessary to take this off?
Thanks for your help.
Tony

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aAfWWyasyBAuJ9N2A

Thanks Joe,
All those emission pipes along the back are seemingly my problem. I got a few off and got the engine higher but it's still not enough. But it's so close. It looks like the plenum will have to come off in order to remove all that emission piping. I'll start on that and see what happens.
As for the tab on the transmission, I might just cut it off if it serves no purpose anymore.

I still have to deal with broken exhaust studs and the studs I had to cut off on the cat. In order to remove the exhaust pipe. Should they be drilled out or can I heat them and use a punch? Somewhere I heard or read they are pressed in.

Thanks for your help. I'll keep you posted.

Hi Joe,

That's one of them. I know that's threaded. The others are the four that connect the inlet flange of the cat. To the down pipe.

Hey Joe,

It's been a while. I have made progress though. I did have to remove the intake plenum to get the engine high enough to get the pan over the crossmember. I got the new pump installed but had difficulty with the pan and gasket. The gasket was a one-piece rubber and did come with easy ups for the four corners. The problem was the long sides of the gasket would keep sliding into the pan. I had to make over a dozen alignment pins out of all-thread to keep it in line which was working great until I couldn't fit the pan straight up between the engine mounts. I had to use a jack to push the pan past the lower part of the mounts. All said, it probably took me an entire day to get this part done. This doesn't even count the broken pan bolt that was a nightmare to remove. I tried welding a nut to it, but it broke further down. Then I drilled it out and went on to re-tap the hole when the tap broke inside. Luckily, I had a broken tap remover which actually worked. I finally got this done.

Then I moved on to the 4 cat flange studs that I had to cut off earlier. They must be hardened steel, because it took me a couple of days and 3 drill indexes to get through them. Laying on my back on the floor didn't help either since I couldn't get good leverage on the drill. I was trying to remove the cat to use a drill press, but I couldn't get it separated.

So now I can finally move topside, but I have a situation which I didn't bring up earlier. When I removed the intake plenum, the gasket was covered in oil. And the runners were coated too. The only way I can see this occurring is via the PCV. I removed it from the valve cover, and it was wet with oil as was the connecting hoses, but it wasn't frozen or stuck. But if it wasn't sealing under vacuum, would that be the problem?

Thanks again for your help.
Tony

Hey Joe,

It's been a while. With the cold weather, injuries, getting those exhaust manifold studs out, and just needing some time off, I finally got everything back together. Of course, I have one nut and a bolt left over. I had them in a bag labelled A.I.R. System, but I cannot figure out where anything is missing. Anyway, the truck starts, oil pressure good, no obvious leaks, I now have a somewhat new problem. The truck ran fine before all this, now it idles rough. I had trouble retrieving the EEC-IV codes before using a test light, so I got a reader. During the KOEO test, I got Code's 111 and 114(o). I didn't do the timing test, although the engine rpms did rise for a period and then return to idle, and the KOER test indicated Codes 536, 538 and 632. I don't hear any whistling indicating a vacuum leak, but I'll put a gage on later.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tony

Hey Joe,

I checked the sensor, and it looks 'dirty', as if it was never touched even after I removed and reinstalled the upper intake. Since I don't know if this code existed before the work, I guess it's difficult to say if this was a problem before. Seems odd the truck ran fine before and was just sitting for an extended period.

I failed to mention that there never was a check engine light on the dash either before the work or now. Does the KOEO test (which passed) just check switches and relays, or does it check these sensors also?

Thanks again for your help.
Tony

Joe,

I had to wait a couple of days until the garage got above 20'. This was a bear to get to.

Ambient air temp is 37' F, Voltage at connector is 4.7 VDC and resistance of sensor is 97K Ohms.

Tony

Hey Joe,

In Park, it's not too bad, engine swings from about 800+ to 1,000 RPMs. In Drive, it's about 700 +/-. These are estimates off the dash tachometer. In drive it's most notable and increasing engine speed seems to improve it somewhat.

I also rechecked the Air Charge Temp sensor at operating temp. It was reading 7.8K Ohms.

I don't know if this matters, but when I had the upper intake off, I noticed the coolant hose that connects to the throttle body was clogged. I cleaned this out and now the hose to the TB gets hot. It didn't before.

Thanks,
Tony

Joe,

What I was trying to say about the line to the TB, was that now it is receiving hot coolant, so the incoming air is being warmed when it wasn't before.
The idle speed wasn't changing rapidly. It was more like, if it were a carb, it was a high idle than slowing as it was warming up.
It eventually settled at 800 900 RPM. I engaged the A/C and it began to lower and reestablished at 800 900 range. This was in Park. When I put it in Drive it dropped to 700, steady, but rough. I raised it to 900, still rough, at 1400, still rough.

Checked vacuum at intake and it was steady at 16.8".

I also checked the voltage at the Idle Air Control valve. It measured 12.36 V. The resistance across the valve was 9.5 Ohms.

I hope this makes what's going on clearer.

Thanks again for all the time you're spending on this.
Tony