Oil light stays on

Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 TOYOTA SIENNA
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 204,000 MILES
After doing a oil change my oil light stayed on. Checked oil level and it was full. So I replaced the oil sending unit and it still stayed on. Could I have a defective oil pump, just by changing the oil?The light was never on before the oil change. Also I took a pressure test and the results was low oil pressure.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Sunday, May 19th, 2019 AT 11:51 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Is there any ticking or knocking coming from the engine? As far as the oil pump, replacing the filter and oil will not have an affect on it.

What pressure are you seeing and at what RPM? What brand oil filter did you use? What weight oil was used? Are there any leaks? Have you removed the oil filter to confirm there is nothing obstructing oil flow?

Let me know. Also, here are directions for testing oil pressure. I'm just adding them to confirm you did it this way. Note: Picture 1 shows pressures at both idle and 3,000 RPM's The remaining pics correlate with the directions.

_____________________________

COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION
1. CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL
a. After warm up the engine and then 5 minutes after the engine stop, oil level should be between the low level and full level marks of the dipstick.
If low, check for leakage and add oil up to the full level mark.

NOTICE: Do not fill with engine oil above the full level mark.

Pic 2

2. CHECK ENGINE OIL QUALITY
a. Check the oil for deterioration, entry of water, discoloring or thinning.
If the quality is visibly poor, replace the oil.
Oil grade: API grade "SL" Energy-Conserving or ILSAC multigrade engine oil. Recommended viscosity is as shown in the illustration.

Pic 3

3. REMOVE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH ASSEMBLY
a. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector.
B. Using a deep socket wrench 27 mm, remove the oil pressure switch.

Pic 4

4. INSTALL OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
a. Install the oil pressure gauge.
5. WARM UP ENGINE
6. CHECK OIL PRESSURE

Pic 1

Oil pressure

7. REMOVE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE

pic 5

8. INSTALL OIL PRESSURE SWITCH ASSEMBLY Adhesive
a. Apply adhesive to 2 or 3 threads of the oil pressure switch.
Adhesive: Part No. 08833-00080, THREE BOND 1344, LOCTITE 242 or equivalent
b. Using a deep socket wrench 27 mm, install the oil pressure switch.
Torque: 15 Nm (153 kgf-cm, 11 ft. Lbs.)

NOTICE: Do not start the engine within 1 hour after the installation.

C. Connect the oil pressure switch connector.
9. START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

______________________________________

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, May 19th, 2019 AT 7:42 PM
Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
I am using 5w30 high mileage oil, I get no pressure at idle and 10 psi at 2,500 rpm.I have not checked the oil filter hole to see if it is restricting flow, I will do that asap.I have no leaks anywhere, I was going to drop the oil pan to check and see if the pickup is plugged.I am concerned about the no pressure at idle.I was wondering if there is a way to check the oil pump with out taking it out.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, May 20th, 2019 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
I am using a STP oil filter.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, May 20th, 2019 AT 3:49 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Before you take the oil pan off, I think I would try a different filter. Not saying the STP is the problem, but anything is possible. Also, did you use a mechanical gauge to check pressure? Is there any noise from the engine (ticking/knocking)?

If you decide to check the pump, here are the directions for removal and replacement. Not a fun job. All attached pictures correlate with the directions

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT
1. DRAIN ENGINE OIL
2. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL RH
3. REMOVE FRONT WIPER ARM HEAD CAP
4. REMOVE FR WIPER ARM RH
5. REMOVE FR WIPER ARM LH
6. REMOVE COWL TOP VENTILATOR LOUVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
7. REMOVE WIPER LINK ASSEMBLY
8. REMOVE COWL TOP TO COWL BRACE INNER NO.1
9. REMOVE COWL TOP PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY OUTER FRONT
10. REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
11. REMOVE V (COOLER COMPRESSOR TO CRANKSHAFT PULLEY) BELT NO.1
12. REMOVE GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
13. REMOVE VANE PUMP V BELT
14. REMOVE ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD
15. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING STAY NO.2 RH
16. REMOVE GENERATOR BRACKET NO.2
17. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
SST 09213-54015 (91651-60855), 09330-00021, 09950-50013 (09951-05010, 09952-05010, 09953-05020, 09954-05031)
18. REMOVE TIMING BELT NO.1 COVER
19. REMOVE TIMING BELT NO.2 COVER
20. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
21. REMOVE TIMING BELT GUIDE NO.2
22. REMOVE TIMING BELT
23. REMOVE TIMING BELT IDLER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.2
24. REMOVE CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY
SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-01000), 09249-63010
25. REMOVE TIMING BELT NO.3 COVER
26. REMOVE TIMING BELT IDLER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.1
27. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT TIMING PULLEY
SST 09950-50013 (09951-05010, 09952-05010, 09953-05020, 09954-05011)
28. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY CENTER (4WD DRIVE TYPE)
29. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY FRONT (2WD DRIVE TYPE)
30. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY FRONT (4WD DRIVE TYPE)
31. REMOVE MANIFOLD CONVERTER INSULATOR NO.3
32. REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT INSULATOR NO.2
33. REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD CONVERTER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.2
34. REMOVE OIL LEVEL GAGE GUIDE

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

35. REMOVE GENERATOR BELT ADJUSTING BAR
a. Remove the 2 bolts, the 2 nuts and the adjusting bar.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

36. SEPARATE COMPRESSOR AND MAGNETIC CLUTCH
a. Disconnect the compressor connector.
B. Remove the 4 bolts, the adjusting bar bracket and the compressor.

HINT: The hoses are off to the side instead of detaching.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

37. REMOVE COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BRACKET NO.1
a. Remove the 2 bolts and the compressor mounting bracket No. 1.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

38. SEPARATE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR RR (4WD DRIVE TYPE)
a. Remove the 2 nuts and disconnect the engine mounting insulator RR.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

39. SEPARATE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR FR
a. Remove the 4 nuts and separate the engine mounting insulator FR.

NOTICE: Do not remove the engine mounting insulator FR.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

40. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR RH
a. Remove the bolt and disconnect the power steering return hose cramp from the frame.
B. Remove the 4 nuts.
C. Place a wooden block on a jack underneath the engine.
D. Jack-up the engine and remove the engine mounting insulator RH.

NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the oil pan.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

41. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
a. Remove the 4 bolts, the nut and the bracket.
42. REMOVE OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.2

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

a. Remove the 10 bolts and the 2 nuts.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

b. Insert the blade of SST between oil pan No.1 and oil pan No.2, cut off the sealer and remove the oil pan No.2.
SST 09032-00100

NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the contact surface of oil pan No. 1 where oil pan No. 2 is mounting.
Do not damage flange portion of oil pan No. 2 when removing.

43. REMOVE OIL STRAINER SUB-ASSEMBLY
a. Remove the bolt, the 2 nuts, the oil strainer and the gasket.
44. REMOVE OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

a. Remove the 2 bolts and the flywheel housing under cover.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

b. Loosen and remove the 17 bolts and the 2 nuts uniformly.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

c. Using a screwdriver, remove the oil pan by prying between the cylinder block and the oil pan.

NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the oil pan and cylinder block.

45. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
a. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector.
B. Remove the bolt and the crankshaft position sensor.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

46. REMOVE OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
a. Remove the 9 bolts.
B. Using a screwdriver, remove the oil pump by prying between the oil pump and the main bearing cap.
C. Remove the O-ring.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

47. INSTALL OIL PUMP SEAL
a. Using SST and a hammer, tap in a new oil seal until its surface is flush with the oil pump body edge.
SST 09223-00010

NOTICE:
Be careful not to tap the oil seal at an angle.
Keep the lip free of foreign objects.

B. Apply MP grease to the oil seal lip.
48. INSTALL OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
a. Remove any old seal packing material from the contact surface.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

b. Apply a light coat of engine oil to a new O-ring and place it on the cylinder block.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

c. Apply a continuous bead of seal packing (Diameter 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch)) as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent

NOTICE:
Remove any oil from contact surface.
Apply seal packing to the inner side of the bolt holes.
Install the oil pump within 3 minutes after applying seal packing.
Do not expose the seal to engine oil within 2 hours after installing.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

d. Align the key of the oil pump drive gear with the keyway located on the crankshaft, and slide the oil pump into place.

ImageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

e. Install the oil pump with the 9 bolts. Tighten the bolts uniformly in several steps.
Torque:
Bolt A 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)
Bolt B 20 Nm (199 kgf-cm, 14 ft. Lbs.)
Bolt C 43 Nm (439 kgf-cm, 32 ft. Lbs.)
49. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
Torque: 8.0 Nm (80 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

50. INSTALL OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY
a. Remove any old seal packing from the contact surface.
B. Apply a continuous bead of seal packing (Diameter 3 to 4 mm (0.12 to 0.16 inch)) as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent

NOTICE:
Remove any oil from the contact surface.
Apply seal packing to the outer side of the bolt holes in the region "X".
Apply seal packing to the inner side of the bolt holes in the region "Y".
Install the oil pan within 3 minutes after applying seal packing.
Do not expose the seal to engine oil within 2 hours after installing.

C. Install the oil pan No.1 with the 17 bolts and the 2 nuts. Tighten the bolts uniformly in several steps.
Torque:
10 mm head 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)
12 mm head 20 Nm (199 kgf-cm, 14 ft. Lbs.)
14 mm head 37 Nm (379 kgf-cm, 27 ft. Lbs.)
c. Install the flywheel housing under cover with the 2 bolts.
Torque: 7.8 Nm (80 kgf-cm, 69 inch lbs.)
51. INSTALL OIL STRAINER SUB-ASSEMBLY
a. Install a new gasket and the oil strainer with the bolt and the 2 nuts.
Torque: 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

52. INSTALL OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.2
a. Remove any old seal packing from the contact surface.
B. Apply a continuous bead of seal packing (Diameter 4 to 5 mm (0.16 to 0.20 inch)) as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826-00080 or equivalent

NOTICE:
Remove any oil from the contact surface.
Apply seal packing to the inner side of the bolt holes.
Install the oil pan within 3 minutes after applying seal packing.
Do not expose the seal to engine oil within 2 hours after installing.

C. Install the oil pan No. 2 with the 10 bolts and the 2 nuts.
Torque: 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

53. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
Torque:
Bolt A 54 Nm (551 kgf-cm, 40 ft. Lbs.)
Nut B 54 Nm (551 kgf-cm, 40 ft. Lbs.)
Bolt C 44 Nm (449 kgf-cm, 32 ft. Lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

54. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR RH
Torque:
Nut A 95 Nm (969 kgf-cm, 70 ft. Lbs.)
Nut B 87 Nm (887 kgf-cm, 64 ft. Lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

55. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR FR
Torque:
Nut A 87 Nm (887 kgf-cm, 64 ft. Lbs.)
Nut B 52 Nm (530 kgf-cm, 38 ft. Lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

56. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR RR (4WD DRIVE TYPE)
Torque: 52 Nm (530 kgf-cm, 38 ft. Lbs.)
57. INSTALL COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BRACKET NO.1
Torque: 25 Nm (250 kgf-cm, 18 ft. Lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

58. INSTALL COMPRESSOR AND MAGNETIC CLUTCH
a. Install the compressor and the adjusting bar bracket with the 4 bolts.
Torque: 25 Nm (250 kgf-cm, 18 ft. Lbs.)

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

59. INSTALL GENERATOR BELT ADJUSTING BAR
a. Install the adjusting bar with the 2 bolts and the 2 nuts.
Torque:
Nut A 43 Nm (438 kgf-cm, 32 ft. Lbs.)
Bolt B 18 Nm (184 kgf-cm, 13 ft. Lbs.)
Bolt C 8.4 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.)
60. INSTALL OIL LEVEL GAGE GUIDE
61. INSTALL EXHAUST MANIFOLD CONVERTER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.2
62. INSTALL EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAT INSULATOR NO.2
63. INSTALL MANIFOLD CONVERTER INSULATOR NO.3
64. INSTALL EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY FRONT (2WD DRIVE TYPE)
65. INSTALL EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY FRONT (4WD DRIVE TYPE)
66. INSTALL EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY CENTER (4WD DRIVE TYPE)
67. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT TIMING PULLEY
68. INSTALL TIMING BELT IDLER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.1
69. INSTALL TIMING BELT NO.3 COVER
70. INSTALL CAMSHAFT TIMING PULLEY
SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-01000), 09249-63010
71. INSTALL TIMING BELT IDLER SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.2
72. INSPECT TIMING BELT
73. INSTALL TIMING BELT
SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-01000)
74. INSTALL CHAIN TENSIONER ASSEMBLY NO.1
75. INSTALL TIMING BELT GUIDE NO.2
76. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
77. INSTALL TIMING BELT NO.2 COVER
78. INSTALL TIMING BELT NO.1 COVER
79. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
SST 09213-54015 (91651-60855), 09330-00021
80. INSTALL GENERATOR BRACKET NO.2
81. INSTALL ENGINE MOUNTING STAY NO.2 RH
82. INSTALL ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD
83. INSTALL VANE PUMP V BELT
84. INSTALL GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
85. INSTALL V (COOLER COMPRESSOR TO CRANKSHAFT PULLEY) BELT NO.1
86. INSPECT DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION AND TENSION (REFERENCE)
87. INSTALL COWL TOP PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY OUTER FRONT
88. INSTALL COWL TOP TO COWL BRACE INNER NO.1
89. INSTALL WIPER LINK ASSEMBLY
90. INSTALL FR WIPER ARM LH
91. INSTALL FR WIPER ARM RH
92. INSTALL FRONT WHEEL RH
93. ADD ENGINE OIL
94. CHECK FOR ENGINE OIL LEAKS
95. CHECK FOR EXHAUST GAS LEAKS

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, May 20th, 2019 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
I get a slight tick after the engine is at operating temp.I did use a mechanical gauge to check the pressure.I think some sludge got caught somewhere in the oil passages and not letting me get full oil pressure. Is there any other place I could check my pressure, besides the oil sending unit hole.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

No, that is where is needs checked. Honestly, and I realize it may be money wasted, but try a different filter. I don't understand why sludge would be an issue just by changing the oil.

I have had issues with oil pressure with a few different brand filters. Once replaced, everything was fine. However, STP isn't one of them, but you never know.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, May 21st, 2019 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
I changed the oil filter and no success. So I took a chance and dropped the oil pan and cleaned out the pan and pickup tube. So far the oil light has not come on. Thank you for all the advice you gave me it was very valuable to me. Thank you again!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, May 25th, 2019 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

I was hopeful the filter would do it for you. Regardless, I'm glad you got it going again. You are very welcome and I hope you come back in the future if you have questions.

Take care and have a great Memorial Day.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, May 25th, 2019 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
Update: after everything I did 5 weeks later the oil light came back on, after it warms up I get a clacking sounds. It sounds like a rod. I can drive the van 2 blocks and the oil light comes on and stays on. I think it is time to get rid of the vehicle.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 11:53 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

That isn't good news. I wonder if the pump itself has gone bad. If you can, upload the sound you are hearing so I can hear it too. Also, does the noise stop when the engine is first started?

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
When I first start it their is no noise after it gets to operating temperature the light comes on and then it get the clanging sound.I shut down and restart the van no noise no light after 30 seconds to 1 minute light comes on and the noise comes back.I will take a video and send.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 17th, 2019 AT 1:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I have to be honest, I have a feeling it is the pump. If there is no engine noise at first, chances are the engine is fine, but as you know, you shouldn't keep doing that. Also, when you cleaned the pick up tube the last time, was there a lot of evidence of sludge build up in the engine? Could it be plugged again? If it ran okay for 5 weeks, you may have to do the same thing again if the engine was excessively dirty.

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 17th, 2019 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
REDBONE
  • MEMBER
I dont know what is wrong, I took a chance and drove the van 11.5 miles and the light didn't come on. Let it run 10 minutes more at idle and light is still off and no clacking sound at idle either.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, July 20th, 2019 AT 7:59 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

That's interesting. No sound at all and no light? Maybe there was a blockage at some point and it moved.

Let me know if things change.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, July 20th, 2019 AT 9:24 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links