No Start no lights no click, nothing?

If everything is dead, as if the battery is completely disconnected, the most common cause is a loose or dirty connection at the under-hood fuse box. Follow the smaller battery positive wire to that fuse box and check the connection where it's bolted to it.

Also follow the smaller battery negative wire to the body and be sure that connection is tight and not rusted. This one is less common and is usually not intermittent when it causes a problem.

Let me know what you find. In the unlikely chance the connection isn't loose at the fuse box, we'll need a voltmeter to continue the testing.

Then it sounds like there's a bad connection on one of the battery cable terminals. For testing to be valid, it has to be done while the problem is occurring. Turn on the head light switch so current is trying to flow. That will make the bad connection show up.

With the voltmeter, set it to a lower DC Volts scale, like 2.0 volts or 20 volts. Put one probe on the battery's positive post and the other probe on the cable clamp on that post. (The two probes will be 1/2" apart). Since those are the same place in the circuit, you should find a difference of 0.00 volts. If you find some voltage other than 0.00 volts, there's resistance in that connection. That connection must be cleaned and tightened.

Next, do the same test on the negative terminal and cable clamp.

I should have mentioned, 1995 models were right in the middle of when they began using those bolted on cables at the under-hood fuse box. Assuming your truck has that, the same testing can be done at that connection, but it requires very specific test points. Place one meter probe on the top of the stud that cable is bolted to. The other probe must touch the terminal on the end of the cable. I put this drawing together to illustrate it better. Right underneath the orange arrow and nut is where the arced / pitted connection develops.

A broader test can also be done, and if a bad connection is indicated, we can narrow it down later. That is to put the first meter probe on that stud on the fuse box, (orange arrow), and the other probe on the battery's positive post. If voltage is indicated, there is a bad connection somewhere between the two test points.

When you said, "these things look fine", are you referring to a visual inspection? If so, that is not sufficient. You won't see a burned connection unless you disturb it and see arcing or sparks.

If I can jump in here please check out this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YRW8fyNudY

Let us know what you find. Ken

Thanks, Ken. Dandy video.

Emily, this would make more sense if I was there looking over your shoulder. As it is, what you found isn't something I can make sense out of. I need to know exactly where both meter probes are placed, then the voltage you found, and if anything is turned on, even though it doesn't work.

Assuming everything is dead, including interior lights, instrument cluster, etc, don't concern yourself with the larger negative battery cable that's bolted to the engine. That only affects the starter and alternator, not the interior stuff. Let's start with the positive side, right at the battery. To encompass more of the circuit in one test, place one meter probe on the battery's positive post, (not its cable clamp). Put the other probe on the stud on the fuse box. Be sure the head lights are turned on, even if they don't work right now. Tell me what voltage you find. It should be 0.00 volts. If it's anything higher than a few hundredths of a volt, we have to narrow down the cause with additional tests within that part of the circuit.

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Dandy. I assume you mean the negative battery cable clamp. This is where you would have found some undesirable voltage, probably the whole 12 volts, when voltage-testing that connection. I had the same issue occur on my '88 Grand Caravan many years ago, except in my case, that smaller negative wire was rusted off where it bolted to the body, right under the battery tray. Head lights and interior lights went dim while driving. Of course, it was the coldest day of winter. Luckily, I had a piece of wire and enough tools to make a temporary ground wire from the battery's negative cable clamp to the wiper motor's mounting plate. It only took me around four months to do the proper repair and get rid of that "temporary" fix.

Very happy to hear you solved this. Please come back to see us again.