No start

Tiny
TRI63ONE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I just bought a truck it seemed to run fine. As I drove it I noticed the battery gage was at max when pushing on the gas then would go back down. Rthe lights would flicker. I was sure it was an altanator.(I have not replaced yet) the station turns off power when I push on the gas I was at a stop light headed to get an altanator and it die and now it will crank over but will not start. Not sure what the problem might be with all the weird electrical miss haps
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Monday, December 21st, 2015 AT 9:53 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
I wouldn't be so quick to change that alternator. The voltage regulator is incorporated into the PCM on that vehicle.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 AT 5:31 AM
Tiny
TRI63ONE
  • MEMBER
I have power from the coil to the destributer no spark after in the wire so I replaced the distributed cap wires and plugs still nothing
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Are you saying you have spark coming out of the coil wire? Is the rotor turning?
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
TRI63ONE
  • MEMBER
Yes and yes
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
That only leaves the cap, rotor wires. Make sure that is a very strong spark at the coil. It should be able to jump about an inch.
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 AT 3:15 PM
Tiny
TRI63ONE
  • MEMBER
No it doesn't have it unless I tuch it to the bolt
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 AT 3:20 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Then you have a coil or coil wire issue. You have switching on and off but not enough KV behind it.
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Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 AT 3:37 PM

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