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Thursday, September 10th, 2015 AT 2:58 PM
WRENCHTECH
- MECHANIC
- 20,757 POSTS
Live data is where you will find it.
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No Spark. Car cranks, but no spark from ignition coil.
LEINADLTD
- MEMBER
- 15 POSTS
Thank you for your patience. After using the new scan tool a new code was found. That code was P0335. I will attach pictures of the scan tool in a separate attachment. The code referenced the NE signal which I believe goes to the distributor. Using the live data feature I did not see a RPM signal option. However, I did find an engine rpm option. I have attached those pictures as well. Please take a moment and review the attached pictures. Please let me know what the next course of action should be. Thanks.
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 9:43 AM
WRENCHTECH
- MECHANIC
- 20,757 POSTS
There are no pictures.
Now you have a Crank Sensor code. You need to find out if you have a tach signal or not.
Now you have a Crank Sensor code. You need to find out if you have a tach signal or not.
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 11:38 AM
LEINADLTD
- MEMBER
- 15 POSTS
Sorry about the pictures, I tried to upload them using my phone. How do I determine if I have a tach signal using an OBD-II scanner tool? What would be the next action to take? Thanks.
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 3:40 PM
WRENCHTECH
- MECHANIC
- 20,757 POSTS
It may be time for you to bite the bullet and let a professional diagnose it.
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 3:50 PM
LEINADLTD
- MEMBER
- 15 POSTS
Thank you for your help. I'm sorry I don't have all the toys that you guys do to diagnose vehicles. I will let Mike know of the results.
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 6:01 PM
SATURNTECH9
- MECHANIC
- 30,870 POSTS
The code reader if it has the live data feature it will give you the option of live data you select it then select all data stream. Then scroll to engine rpm then crank the engine does the rpm reading read on the live engine data while cranking the engine?
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 8:16 PM
LEINADLTD
- MEMBER
- 15 POSTS
The engine RPM displays 0 0 0 while the engine is cranking over. This is in live data mode and not the freeze frame mode. Unfortunately, I do not know how to check for the RPM signal that the technician is asking for. I'm not sure where to locate the tach signal in order for the vehicle to trigger a spark. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 8:39 PM
SATURNTECH9
- MECHANIC
- 30,870 POSTS
Have you removed the crankshaft position sensor to inspect it for damage?Also inspected the toothed plate on the crankshaft pulley for damage?
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Friday, September 11th, 2015 AT 10:19 PM
JDML98
- MEMBER
- 4 POSTS
- 1996 TOYOTA CAMRY
- 4 CYL
- FWD
- AUTOMATIC
- 233,619 MILES
Electrical problem
1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 233619 miles
I have lost my IGT sinal in my Camry and have just about lost my mind trying to find it. The mechanic I took it to has replaced the igniter, coil, distributor, ECM, open circuit rela, main relay, EFI relay, and crankshaft sensor and still no spark. While trying to start the car for self diagnosis ( I used to be a technician about 5 years ago until I decide to change jobs) the battery got weak and the starter was chattering (clicking real fast) and under this condition the coil was firing. I jumped the battery with my truck and no spark until the chattering started upon being dead again. This car stalled for a couple days at low idle and then became very hard to start (5 to 15 ignition cycles) but ran great after starting and the stopped starting at all. I have no idea. Where does the IGT signal originate from?
1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 233619 miles
I have lost my IGT sinal in my Camry and have just about lost my mind trying to find it. The mechanic I took it to has replaced the igniter, coil, distributor, ECM, open circuit rela, main relay, EFI relay, and crankshaft sensor and still no spark. While trying to start the car for self diagnosis ( I used to be a technician about 5 years ago until I decide to change jobs) the battery got weak and the starter was chattering (clicking real fast) and under this condition the coil was firing. I jumped the battery with my truck and no spark until the chattering started upon being dead again. This car stalled for a couple days at low idle and then became very hard to start (5 to 15 ignition cycles) but ran great after starting and the stopped starting at all. I have no idea. Where does the IGT signal originate from?
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
IMPALASS
- MECHANIC
- 3,112 POSTS
Hello
Is this what you are looking for? Forgive me I may be calling it something different than you. . ...when you say IGT signal, that stands for. Is this the IGN - Ignition you are talking about?
Is this what you are looking for? Forgive me I may be calling it something different than you. . ...when you say IGT signal, that stands for. Is this the IGN - Ignition you are talking about?
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
JDML98
- MEMBER
- 4 POSTS
NO, it cranks fine just no start. The IGT singnal should be 0.5v to 1.0 volts generated by the ECM to tell the igniter to ground the coil. This is the control circuit that acts much like a old set of points used to except for the fact that a set of points do not cost $503.00.
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
IMPALASS
- MECHANIC
- 3,112 POSTS
Hello
Even though each has the same 4 cylinder, 2.2L DOHC is this a 2D coupe, 4D sedan or wagon?
Next - I wanted to shoot these two diagrams off to you so you can start looking them over as I will too.
Even though each has the same 4 cylinder, 2.2L DOHC is this a 2D coupe, 4D sedan or wagon?
Next - I wanted to shoot these two diagrams off to you so you can start looking them over as I will too.
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
JDML98
- MEMBER
- 4 POSTS
This is a 4 door with I'm guessing California specs since my distributor in this car has only two wires instead of 4 and the external coil/igniter was only used for this year camry and the 1997 rav4.
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
IMPALASS
- MECHANIC
- 3,112 POSTS
Thanks
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
IMPALASS
- MECHANIC
- 3,112 POSTS
Hello jdml98
Well, to me, tell me what you think, per the drawings the only things you haven't' changed is the starter, neutral position switch, I show starter relay, but is that what you called the open circuit relay or the main relay?
So my first thought is what if the starter is bad and drawing the high power. You might remove starter and have it checked for FREE at Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.
Next, the wires: I would check each inch of the wires for any hardness, chaffing, hot spots, loose connectors etc.
Next I attached info on this neutral switch for your to check out.
Tell me what you think. . .. . .
Using an ohmmeter, check continuity across terminals specified for each switch position shown in Figs. 11 through 14. If continuity is not present, replace switch.
Well, to me, tell me what you think, per the drawings the only things you haven't' changed is the starter, neutral position switch, I show starter relay, but is that what you called the open circuit relay or the main relay?
So my first thought is what if the starter is bad and drawing the high power. You might remove starter and have it checked for FREE at Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.
Next, the wires: I would check each inch of the wires for any hardness, chaffing, hot spots, loose connectors etc.
Next I attached info on this neutral switch for your to check out.
Tell me what you think. . .. . .
Using an ohmmeter, check continuity across terminals specified for each switch position shown in Figs. 11 through 14. If continuity is not present, replace switch.
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
RDN49
- MEMBER
- 11 POSTS
- 1996 TOYOTA CAMRY
- 4 CYL
- 2WD
- AUTOMATIC
- 250,000 MILES
Electrical problem
1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 250000 miles
Still Struggling with Camry-stalled on Hwy; repeated cranking restart 1x, stalled again immediate; no spark now cold. Previous tech had me check ecm for igf and igt signal volt- got 5 and.7, checked wires and connectors-getting same readings at igniter connector; p/u and cps sensor check within range; tried new coil initially, and used ignter(could be bad, cannot verify), and rebuilt distributor-igt reading changed to.1? For sure, I am not sure what to check now! Thanks, Ray ( Do get battery voltage at coil and igniter)
1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 250000 miles
Still Struggling with Camry-stalled on Hwy; repeated cranking restart 1x, stalled again immediate; no spark now cold. Previous tech had me check ecm for igf and igt signal volt- got 5 and.7, checked wires and connectors-getting same readings at igniter connector; p/u and cps sensor check within range; tried new coil initially, and used ignter(could be bad, cannot verify), and rebuilt distributor-igt reading changed to.1? For sure, I am not sure what to check now! Thanks, Ray ( Do get battery voltage at coil and igniter)
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
JDML98
- MEMBER
- 4 POSTS
Your on the wrong page but have viable information. I have not lost my ignition circuit, the car turns over just fine but I have no spark from the coil. The signal from the crankshaft sensor and the distributor for a input to the ECM that is called the IGT circuit. Once the coil fires it sends a confirmation signal back to the ECM known as the IGF circuit. The IGT forms a 0.5 to 1.0 volt circuit to the igniter which turns into a ground and fires the coil. Kind of like an fancy set of old style points except for the $503.00 price tag. My CSS and distributor ohm within specs but I can't seem to find what the correct readiing from them back to the ECM is supposed to be in ohms or volts or whatever.
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
MASTERTECHTIM
- MECHANIC
- 4,749 POSTS
Have you checked the timing belt? Every time I have had one of these with no spark I have replaced distributor and it has fixed it every time. If timing belt broke then distributor will not turn also causing no spark.
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
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IMPALASS
- MECHANIC
- 3,112 POSTS
Okay -
I understand. Since I don't totally understand some of your terms etc, you may have to do a little more explaining so that I can better assist you.
I think, based off of the last post, this is closer to what you are looking for but, some of the info when I copy to send to you doesn't' come out readable which is no good for you so we may have to try me sending it to you different. Maybe if you can not make out what you need, provide an email address and I will try sending it that way instead of attaching it to the post.
Next, what do you mean when you say, CSS. I see the IGF, IGT on the wiring diagram but do not see the CSS. So it will help me if I know what it is.
Also, I am sending you the entire wiring diagram which is unreadable even when I print it. But I have blown up the igniter and distributor part for you to better see. The last 4 pics are the ECM blown up but it took 4 to do it. I would cut it off at one point, then that same wire will be the bottom one on the next so you can see the order. So from here, if you can guide me where you need, I will blow up certain areas and attach that way, then with the pin information I sent, maybe you can zero in on what you need.
Let me know how this does. . .. . ...and we will take it from here
I understand. Since I don't totally understand some of your terms etc, you may have to do a little more explaining so that I can better assist you.
I think, based off of the last post, this is closer to what you are looking for but, some of the info when I copy to send to you doesn't' come out readable which is no good for you so we may have to try me sending it to you different. Maybe if you can not make out what you need, provide an email address and I will try sending it that way instead of attaching it to the post.
Next, what do you mean when you say, CSS. I see the IGF, IGT on the wiring diagram but do not see the CSS. So it will help me if I know what it is.
Also, I am sending you the entire wiring diagram which is unreadable even when I print it. But I have blown up the igniter and distributor part for you to better see. The last 4 pics are the ECM blown up but it took 4 to do it. I would cut it off at one point, then that same wire will be the bottom one on the next so you can see the order. So from here, if you can guide me where you need, I will blow up certain areas and attach that way, then with the pin information I sent, maybe you can zero in on what you need.
Let me know how this does. . .. . ...and we will take it from here
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Wednesday, September 20th, 2017 AT 3:09 PM
(Merged)
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