No heat in car and now when I apply the break the entire car shakes.

Tiny
FORDKID89
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
First, my 2003 explorer had the clicking noise when I turned on the heat. Replaced blend door actuator, thermostat, cleared heater core, and completely bypassed the switch with the vacuum line attatched. The vacuum doesnt work at all. The air blows but it is always cold. It is leaking around where the housing for the thermostat is and I have no idea what to do next. The vehicle will never reach operating temp on the gauge until after I have been driving for awhile. Recently the o/d off light has been flashing after about three to five minutes of driving. But the o/d is still on. Also, when I was coming off the interstate and applied the brakes, there was a loud knocking. Release the brakes and then a knock. But now, as soon as I apply the brakes, the entire car shakes violently and I got stuck on the way to work. Replaced rear brakes and rotors. When removing the rear left rotor found what was left of the parking brake sitting freely. Advanced said that I wouldnt need to purchase and install a new parking brake but now when I go to install the top bolt for the caliper the bolt goes in at an angle and will not tighten all the way. Also where the transmission meets the engine there is a leak. It has a red hint to it so im pretty sure it's just transmission fluid and not oil as well. When I start the vehicle now there is a loud high pitch squeal and then the sound of the lifters. This is my only ride to work and I cant afford to take it to the crooked shops around here.
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Wednesday, January 8th, 2014 AT 2:31 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If the caliper bolt is on an angle you either have the caliper not installed all the way or cross threaded the bolt if the bracket is ok thenyou can get another bolt and make sure the caliper is donw all the way. Your O/d light may have been flashing due to maybe the torque converter clutch was stuck on or it's shot and may have made the seal by oil pump leak a trans guy should really diagnose this as to what is wrong with trans. Youneed the vacuum to work otherwise youwont' get any heat so start at engine there may be a line split or broken or off causing the no vacuum. Bu thook it back up. Then if still no heat check the vacuum motors by the blend door. Also these have a heate valv which go bad or dont' get vacuum so no heat see pic. If it is working ok both hoses shold be about the same temp when truck is warm.
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Wednesday, January 8th, 2014 AT 6:48 AM
Tiny
FORDKID89
  • MEMBER
I completely removed that heat valve and used a piece of 1/2 inch copper in its place. The vacuum line that went to it had no suction. Can I get to the vacuum motors the same way I got to the blend door actuator? Would an issue with the torque converter cause the whole vehicle to shake when I apply the brakes? The bolt for the caliper wasn't canted until I went to install the new rotors. Do I need the parking brake installed? Could the fact that it is nonexistent be a problem?
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Wednesday, January 8th, 2014 AT 11:54 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If the car is shaking then it's probably the rear brakes aren't installed rightcausing the shake when applied or the rotors are warped infront as that is where most of the braking is. As a mechanic I would have the parking brake fixed but that is your decision. And the vacuum motors you can probably get to them just you'll have tosee if you can reach them. But you could have a broken vacuum line from engine as well why you don't get anyheat. Of course you have disconnected your vacuum lines so NONE of your vacuum motors are going to workso you won't have heat even with the water valve passed up. Or it could bethat everything was done incorrectly and you should take it to someone who knows what they are doing to straighten this out.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2014 AT 6:23 AM

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