No electric power in the dash

Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 LINCOLN NAVIGATOR
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I have recently bought the truck from auction. It has no power in the dash when I insert the key in the ignition no lights nothing. But the wipers work when I put the key. There is power in the cigarette lighter and the tilt steering function works and the brake and accelerator height adjustment system works. I have checked fuse boxes and relays with multimeter they seem fine. When truck is in park and the battery connected key doesn't come out of ignition it only comes out when I disconnect the battery.
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Friday, November 6th, 2020 AT 6:22 PM

38 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
I understand you checked fuses but we need to double check fuse 26 and 29 in the smart junction box. These are what feed the cluster so if the fuses are fine, we need to check power on these two wires at the cluster.

You should have 12 volts when the key on. However, I am thinking the SJB is the issue with the key not coming out as well.

Let's start with this before you replace the SJB because we need a little more proof first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring
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Friday, November 6th, 2020 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
I did check the fuses 26, 29 they are good. I have opened ignition panels and took out the connector that goes to the ignition lock and there is power in 2 of the points. I will attach the picture. I will need further assistance.
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Tuesday, April 6th, 2021 AT 10:22 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
I am not sure I understand why you are checking power at the ignition. Is the ignition switch operating? I thought the issue was just all these other components were not operating. If they are not, then we need to go to something that is not working and check power. I suspect you will not have power and if not, then we need to trace it back to find where there is power or to the SJB.

I still think there is an issue with this as it is what supplies the power to these components. Let me know what you find with one of these things that is not working or let me know if I am not understanding the issue. Thanks.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
Thank you for replying back to me. Ignition switch doesn't work. Key in the ignition turning it nothing happens. I checked the fuse 26 and 29 they are good. Do you want me to get sjb?
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 11:23 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Not if you have power to it. The SJB would be if all these items did not have power but if you checked power and it is there at the ignition switch then we need to do this testing. Please see the attached. Basically you are putting your test meter or test light in these pins and putting the key in each position. The light should light or have resistance (ohms) when the chart says closed circuit. All open circuit rows on the chart the light should be off or your meter should say OL.
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Thursday, April 8th, 2021 AT 6:05 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
Hello,

I was able to put my blue driver in the code reader and so many codes popped up. Can I send you pdf please let me know.
Thank you,
Kay mann
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Tuesday, April 20th, 2021 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
Hi,

I am attaching list of the codes I got while scanning it.

Thanks
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Okay. Those are all pointing towards a loss of communication issue. However, that many codes may be due to unhooking some connectors for testing.

It appears this issue happens enough that I would suggest clearing all the codes and then getting it to act up again just to see which of these codes come back. The reason is, you have airbag codes in there as well and that is most likely a wiring issue but would make more sense as they set when you had some connectors unhooked.

Let us know and we can go from there. Thanks
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
Thank you for replying back. I am going to be working on it on Tuesday because that's the only day I get off. I will do as you instructed and let you know what happens afterwards.

Thank you
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 7:37 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Sounds great. Thanks for the update. We will wait to hear back. Thanks
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Friday, April 23rd, 2021 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
Hi.

I have cleared the codes and scanning it afterwards it showed few codes and I will be attaching the pictures with this message. Please advise me the next steps. Thank you for your guidance.
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Tuesday, April 27th, 2021 AT 9:06 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
Hi,

I have cleared the codes and scanning it afterwards it showed few codes and I will be attaching the pictures with this message. Please advise me the next steps. Thank you for your guidance.
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Tuesday, April 27th, 2021 AT 9:06 PM
Tiny
KAYMANN1@GMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
Next image
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Tuesday, April 27th, 2021 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
This is a network issue as I suggested above. Here is a guide that talks about this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

These are very difficult to figure out but we need to start with checking voltage at the DLC on pin 6 and 11. This is the high speed network and it has two legs. When those voltages are added together they should be 5 volts. However, they are split and will be around 2.7 and 2.3 volts.

I attached the wiring diagram for this. Depending on the voltages we will need to remove each of these modules one at a time until the voltage returns to normal but let start with finding out what they are.

Thanks
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Wednesday, April 28th, 2021 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
Hi,

If I am not mistaken you mean if I have a can bus scanner it will be easier to pinpoint the fault. I have a mechanic friend and I believe he has a better scanning tool than my obd reader which is Bluedriver. Let me know otherwise I will follow what you have suggested.
Thank you
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Thursday, April 29th, 2021 AT 1:35 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
You can but it is not going to give you these voltage readings. Here is a video on how to do that but again, once you start to get into diagnosing this, you are going to have to get the voltages:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InIlnsjOVFA

So I would do this scan if he has a tool but either way I think we need to get the voltages and go from there. Thanks
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Friday, April 30th, 2021 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
Hello,

I checked the pins on dlc below are the volts multimeter showed
Pin 6 0.01 or 0.00
Pin 11 1.52 or 1.53
With kzyee super probe
Pin 6 0.00 volts
Pin 11 1.3 volts
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Saturday, May 1st, 2021 AT 8:03 AM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
I have also noticed when I hooked the battery no key in the ignition the vents on the roof were blowing air.
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Saturday, May 1st, 2021 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Unfortunately it appears the CAN + is shorted to ground and that would explain most all your issues.

These voltages need to be 2.7 and 2.3 volts so in order to find the short we need to prove that out first.

These for continuity to ground. You do this by taking your meter and putting it on resistance (ohms) or if you have a continuity selection then that is what we need to test. This will tell us if this circuit has a path to ground. It should not have continuity or any resistance. Just let me know what this measurement is and we can try to narrow it down but it is not going to be easy.
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Sunday, May 2nd, 2021 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
KULJIT SINGH MANN
  • MEMBER
Do I check continuing in the same pins?
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Sunday, May 2nd, 2021 AT 6:30 PM

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