No crank, no start?

Hi,

That appears to be related to the starter or the neutral safety switch. The lights inside turning off is normal when the key is in the start position.

First, see if it will start if you place the transmission in neutral. If there is no change, I need you to locate the starter relay in the under-hood junction box. Switch it with a different one having the same part number and see if that changes things. Also, confirm the ignition 1 fuse is good and has power to and from it. Also, in the under-hood junction box.

If there is still no change, at the starter motor, there will be a smaller gauge purple wire. The wire will have no power until the key is in the start position. Have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for voltage at that wire. If there is voltage, the battery cables are clean and tight, and everything is properly attached at the starter motor, the starter will need to be replaced.

I attached the wiring schematic below so that you have a reference. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Hi,

Here is what I need you to try. Remove the starter relay. On the relay you will see a number identifying each of the connector pins. Locate numbers 87 and 30 and determine which connectors in the box they go to.

Take a jumper wire and jump power from pin 30 to 87. When you do this, it sends power directly to the starter S post (purple wire) and the starter should engage. Do this and let me know what you find. If there are no issues and the key is in the run position, the engine should start.

By doing this, I can determine if there is an issue at the relay or if the PCM isn't providing a ground to actuate the relay.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

If there was no response from the starter, but you saw smoke from under the fuse box, it sounds like there is a short preset. I checked through two different manuals and neither shows the removal process, but it should be straight forward.

Make sure the battery is disconnected first, and then remove the fuse/relay box and inspect the wiring under it. See if there is any evidence of a short, broken wire, or connector issue.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

The connector you are pointing at appears to be black. Is that correct? As far as removal, take a small screwdriver and depress the center of the connector and it should pull out. Also, make sure the purple wire is in good condition.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

If the starter now engages but the engine doesn't run, I need you to try something.

First, see if the engine will start if you use starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know it is a fuel related issue. If there is no change, I need you to check for spark at the plugs.

Here is a link that explains how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Try that and let me know what you find.

Joe

It could be related to the neutral safety switch. Did you try starting it in neutral? Also, did the starter engage when you jumped the relay?

Also, let me know if you were able to perform all of the tests on the relay circuit.

Joe

Hi,

Power should be present at pin 30 from the ignition A fuse. For power to reach pin 30, the primary side of the relay needs to be completed. So, if you have power at pin 30 but nothing is present at 87 with the key in the start position, the problem is likely on the primary side.

Now, we need to check the primary side. With the key in the start position, check if power becomes present at pin 85. If it does, then I need you to check for continuity to ground via pin 86. Pin 86 is a ground and doesn't require the key to be in any specific position.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

If you had a wire in pin 85 and used a test light, where did you have a ground for the test light? I ask because if you get power to pin 85 and pin 86 has continuity to ground, the primary side of the relay should be complete. When that happens, an electromagnetic field is created which forces the secondary side to close (power between pins 30 and 87) and sends power to the purple wire at the starter. (I hope that made sense).

If that is happening, recheck the purple wire on the starter to make sure it has power with the key in the start position. If it does, suspect the starter is the problem.

Do you now have continuity to ground between pin 86 and a body ground or the battery negative?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Using the test light, put a paper clip in 86. Place the alligator clip side of the test light on that paper clip. Then probe pin 85 with the light and have your wife turn the key. Does the light turn on?

As far as the neutral safety switch is concerned, see if it will start in neutral. Also, there is a yellow wire at the switch that should have power with the key in the start position. However, if you have power at pin 85, the switch is working. Power must run through the safety switch before it reaches pin 85.

I have a feeling that pin 86 doesn't have continuity to ground. Therefore, it isn't completing the circuit for the primary side of the relay. If possible, try the test I mentioned above. If it tests good, either we have a bad relay, no power to the secondary (which you already checked and is good via power at pin 30), or an open between pin 87 and the starter. But you already checked that and the wire is good. That leaves the only thing left. A ground for the primary.

The ground is G132 and located at the front right of the engine block. I can't tell in the pic which side of the engine I'm looking at. It appears to be the left (driver's side).

Let me know.

Joe