No crank, no OBD2 contact

Tiny
EIRIK
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 BMW 528
  • 2.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 100 MILES
Car will not start, no click, no crank, no fuel pump, no spark on any cylinder, no contact in OBD2 20 pin, my Foxwell diagnose thingy works fine on my 3 series. So it's definitely the 528i having the problem.

i can also add that the car has two 95ah AGM batteries and they are sitting at 12.6 volts, and that central locking and all the central lights and radio works as it should, but when I turn the key nothing. Also read that when the key is in the ignition and I open the door it should beep at me, not the same sound as if I leave the key in the ignition With the lights on, that works fine, but no ding ding sound. The EWS should be coded out from the ECU, and I also tried shorting the starter so it cranks, but the fuel pump does nothing, zero pressure at the valve in front of the engine, and no spark on any of the 6 cylinder.
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Friday, January 24th, 2020 AT 12:21 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Have you checked all ignition related fuses in the under hood fuse box? Also, have you checked to see if there is power to pin 16 in the OBD connector? It should have 12v at all times. Let me know what happens when you plug in to the OBD.

Let me know.
Joe
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Saturday, January 25th, 2020 AT 9:54 PM
Tiny
EIRIK
  • MEMBER
Hello, sorry for late answer.I have just gotten internet after moving, I have checked all the fuses With a continuity test, I do believe I find battery voltage at ppin 16, but the obd scanner don't start, I also think it's weird that when I turn the key its nothing other than light and accessories that start, radio and all works fine, but no spark nor fuel pump.
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Tuesday, February 4th, 2020 AT 4:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I attached two pictures below. First, make sure the fuse I circled is good. The two pics are with wiring schematic for the starter. I had to break it in two so you could read it. I did overlap it so you could follow it.

Picture 3 is the schematic showing the fuel pump relay. Check for power to it and check the relay itself. Here is a link that explains how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Picture 4 is for the data link connector. There are two pins and two fuses you need to check for me. See the picture. I circled them.

Picture 5 shows the two fuses that power the fuel pump relay. Check them as well and let me know what is found.

Last, there is an inertial fuel cut switch in the left kick panel. Check it as well. See picture 6.

Let me know.

Joe

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Tuesday, February 4th, 2020 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
EIRIK
  • MEMBER
Thanks, first the fuse number f114 is good, I think at least I found the right fuse, I found in in the rear of the car direct connected to the battery, and it as fine, the f15 was also good, and if it was blown should I be able to see how far the car has gone? As I see it also give's power to the brain of the car, or is that stored in the cluster?
Also the fuses for the pump f31 and f17 was okay, I don't know if the f17 is very important or not, but I saw they shared the same component, I checked most fuses with continuity test using a multi-meter.

On the last picture you sent, do you believe that shut off switch would make the obd and the starter not work? Sorry for "dumb" questions, I am terrible with schematics, also where have you found these schematics? Anywhere to download?
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Wednesday, February 5th, 2020 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

No, I don't feel they would prevent the starter from working. Please feel free to ask any question. There is no such thing as a dumb question.

Now, did you check all the pins I included above on the DLC confirm power?

Joe
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Wednesday, February 5th, 2020 AT 8:54 PM

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