Engine is overheating

Tiny
HMCCRAY1
  • 1998 NISSAN SENTRA

Hi I am a young female and I constantly travel to work and school everyday. I travel about 85-95 miles a day. Well, I just got my 1998 nissan sentra from an auction. It has 119,865 miles on it. I just had my radiator rebuilt but my temperature guage keeps reading that my car is running hot. I don't smell fumes or see any smoke. I don't know what else to do and I am scared that one day I will be driving to school or work and something terrible will happen. Please Help Me. I don't know if my hose has a leak or what it may be. All suggestions are highly welcomed. Thank you in advance and have a good night :)

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Friday, November 10th, 2006 AT 10:52 PM

18 Replies

Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
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Bleeding the system is easy. When warm, crack open the bleeders on the system by the hoses. Next, are you sure that the thermostat went in correctly? For instance, I am not sure if there is room on that model but in is possible on some cars to put the thermostat in backwards. And there is only ONE thermostat. There other sensors and make sure that the electrical was hooked back up properly to the sensors and the fans. Is the fan working, is there enough fluid in the vehicle, does the car heater work and get hot?

Here is a guide that can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

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Saturday, November 11th, 2006 AT 3:48 AM
Tiny
BIGALDIZZLER
  • MEMBER

Hmm I though I replied already, maybe I replied to the wrong thread or maybe I hitpreview and not submit :(.

First off thanks for the reply! I know my heater blows hot when I turn it on to cool down the engine after exiting the freeway. I know both electrical fan are working fine or else I would be in bigger trouble. The thermostat should of been in the right I used haynes manual as a references. Lastly I know how to bleed the system, I just didn't bleed it when I changed the water pump I though it would be fine, but now I have another problem the new radiator cap I purchased from stant fits my car but now it wont come off! The cap loosens but wont come off, the two hinges of the cap wont let go of the radiator. I dont mind destroying the cap I am thinking about prying it off with a screw driver. Start up car warm it up bleed it add coolant and slap on a new cap and hopefully get this thing over with! :X

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Sunday, November 12th, 2006 AT 1:40 PM
Tiny
BIGALDIZZLER
  • MEMBER

Well, I managed to take the radiator cap off. I changed the coolant and bleed the system but my temperature gauge is always going up and down not always constant. I dont know if I have bleed properly. Here is how I did it.

1.) Drain out all coolant in radiator by removing drain plug.
2.) Reinstall plug, and fill with new coolant with bleeder valve slightly open.
3.) Once I have finished pouring all coolant in I closed the bleeder valve. Then fill my coolant reservoir to cold max.
4.) I start the car with radiator cap off, and heat on max.
5.) I wait for car to warm up, then add if need.
6.) I turn car off and install new cap done.

Ok, so basically thats what I have done but I noticed that when I was warming the car up. It took probably 10 min the coolant would drop and rise out of the radiator, and once in a while I would see a big bubble of air shoot out the top of the radiator. I dont know if this is normal or not. During this period I choose to open the bleeder valve again, the coolant level in the radiator dropped and I proceed to add more coolant then I saw that coolant was coming out the valve I closed it. I waited another 1 or 2 min. And didn't see any bubbles coming out or anything so I just shut off engine and put on the raidator cap.

I took it for a drive to school about 5 miles away the next moring and while I am idling the temp rise when I am driving it would go down. Sometime when I am idling the temp would go pass 50% which was normal temp before any overheating happened.

Any suggestion as too what may be wrong? I notice one of my fan is not really really close to the radiator like the other fan.I bought a OEM "STYLE" radiator maybe I have a fitment issue. Its about an less than an inch way from the radiator

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Thursday, November 16th, 2006 AT 12:37 AM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
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The distance should be fine for the fan. The bleeding is something I do when I know the system is full of coolant and the overflow res is full too. Then when the system is warm I crack open a bleeder and let out the steam and air. I may have to crack it open and shut several times as the fluid exchanges around the system and lets the air get pushed around as well.

There are other things that you could watch for as well. For instance, the radiator hoses can look just fine but have a failure inside that restricts the flow of coolant. When you are idling and the engine temp starts to climb are you ever hearing the fan kick on?

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Thursday, November 16th, 2006 AT 7:21 AM
Tiny
BIGALDIZZLER
  • MEMBER

Hey bruce nice to hear for ya again 8)

Hmm, I have new hoses and I also flushed the engine with garden hose I doubt I have any restrictions there, but I know I bent some of the radiator fins in accident does that cause restriction?

I will try bleeding it when the car warms up, and see how that goes! Thanks :P

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Thursday, November 16th, 2006 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
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The fins will not cause any flow restrictions. They help dissipate the heat as it flows through the radiator. The radiator cap is very important to be replaced with a proper and exact replacement. The pounds of pressure is important and the ability to open and close to allow the use of the resevoir is critical.

Other than a blockage which we have covered, the fans to cool, the thermostat, bleeding and the radiator, the water pump is about it. Double check!

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Friday, November 17th, 2006 AT 8:56 AM
Tiny
BIGALDIZZLER
  • MEMBER

Hey bruce I doubled checked everything, the cap is 13psi like the OEM cap so it should be fine. I think I will take the car to my uncle who is a mechanic and let him bleed it in a few days as thanks giving week is around the corner and I will be getting off school.

I drove my car about 18 miles on the freeway I notice the temp. Gauge would be a little below 50% (50% was what the car use to be on when everything was fine regardless of local or freeway drive) It took maybe 20 minutes on the freeway for the temp. Gauge to move to the 50% mark then it would drop down. When I exit the freeway the temp would be below 50% but as I accelerate from the stop sign my temp gauge would raise to 70% and back down to a steady 40=50% when I got to my friends house I decide to check the the hoses, the upper house is warm and the lower hose is cold. I already replace the thermostat twice.I am getting so frustrate :cry:

Anyways thanks bruce and happy thanks giving :D

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Monday, November 20th, 2006 AT 10:23 AM
Tiny
DOUG29681
  • MEMBER

It sounds like a blown head gasket to me. The bubbles you noticed in the radiator is actually engine compression being released into the coolant system
Remove the radiator cap now (with engine cold) start car and observe for bubbles. Have someone rev the engine and continue to observe.
If you still see bubbles at idle or with the R.P.M.'S up you shoud know it a blown head gasket.
Also, there may be some crud mixed with the radiator fluid. This crud is actually oil gas exhaust all mixed, not mold as you were told.

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Friday, December 15th, 2006 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
KINGRICH55
  • 1998 NISSAN SENTRA
  • MERGED

Air Conditioning problem
1998 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

i have been having problems with my car overheating got that under control and got my oil changed andcar overheated put abot 75% aintifreeze(100%) and abot 25% water in radiator now heater in car wont heat. What do you think problem is?

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
  • 10,547 POSTS
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With hot engine feel the heater core hoses. If one is hot and one is cold. Both warm. Both are cold then theres a issue with your heater lines, heater control valve or a plugged heater core. But most likely if the coolant was low you have air int he system and it needs bleeding.

With both hoses hot then thers a issue with the control doors inside of the dash.

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
CDSTERRETT
  • 1999 NISSAN SENTRA
  • MERGED

Engine problem
1999 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 105, 00 miles

Last week the heater quit working, then the car began running hot intermittently. There was plenty of coolant, so I assumed it was the thermostat and changed it. That didn't fix the problem. I've started it once since then and it immediately got very hot with only cold air coming from the vents. Did I somehow mess up changing the thermostat, or do you think it's something else? Also, at the same time it started idling at a higher rpm than usual and the brake light came on.

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Usually the heater not working is a sign that there is no coolant in the heater core. For it to overheat quickly is usually a sign that the thermostat is stuck shut, or possibly installed backwards

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
TONYCHAVARRI
  • 1997 NISSAN SENTRA
  • MERGED

Engine Performance problem
1997 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 230000 miles

I am just completely boggled! Any help or suggestions would greatly be appreciated. I have a 1997 Nissan Sentra which I have had barely any problems with, but within the last year the vehicle has been overheating and I'm unable to figure out the problem. I burned out a motor because of the problem and it has since been replaced and I'm still having the same problems.
The cooling fans kick on, the thermostat, radiator and water pump have been changed. Any other ideas? Is there something I am overlooking.

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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  • MERGED

Try bleeding the cooling system-don't work get it block and pressure tested.

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
AJONES02
  • 1994 NISSAN SENTRA
  • MERGED

Smells problem
1994 Nissan Sentra 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 126, 00 miles

WHERE DO I PUT THE WATER IN MY OVERHEATING 1994 NISSAN SENTRA?

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

You have to wait until the engine is completely cool down, and into your coolant reservoir, not radiator.

Doing the opposite will ensure cylinder head warpage, as the cold water reacts to hot aluminum head and iron block, as the two metals expands and shrinks at different rates.

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
TONI120893
  • 1993 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,000 MILES
  • MERGED

So the other day I was driving and I realized that my heat was blowing out frigid cold air for some reason and it would only get slightly warm. It was doing this since Friday. Today, which is sunday, I was driving and noticed that my heating gauge was going well above normal so I stopped to take a look under my hood, and it was white smoke coming from the front of the car as well as inside of the anti freeze liquid bottle which was bone dry. I got some anti freeze and filled it to the top and rode around the block and my car didnt over heat so I thought problem was solve. Well before I left for work I looked at the coolant again and realized it was only halfway full now but still had liquid so I thought it might just be a leak. As I started driving ten minutes later my car is starting to overheat again and I see the same white smoke but there is still liquid in the anti freeze bottle. Someone told me it sounds as if I need a new radiator but then I looked online and some said it could be a new thermostat, a flush, or blown head gasket. Do you have any suggestions of what it may be?

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The first thing that needs done is locating the source of the leak. That is where the steam is coming from. Do that and let me know what you find.

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Tuesday, May 23rd, 2017 AT 12:10 PM

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