2000 Nissan Altima

KWZ11

MEMBER
2000 NISSAN ALTIMA
4 CYL
FWD
AUTOMATIC
200,000 MILES

I am well aware that my car needs brakes[(even thought they were replaced last yr) meaning pads rotors calibers. AND wheel bearings] My question is. Tie rods."Inner and outer", half shafts, cv joints, wheel hubs and a drive shaft, also needs to be replaced.. Is some of the work redundant? Can I get a tie rod assembly? How about an axle assembly? How can I save money? I know I can not cut a conner when it comes to the pads, calibers [(because they froze), rotors(grinding) because of calibers, bearings grinding. Because they were crap to begin with]. The "Auto Center" that I went to. Tells me a year later (to the date of my last visit) that I need all this work?What is your opinion. Can I really do that much damage to my car in a year? Did Sears screw up the first time? Causing all this Extra damage to my front end? Do you think there is a cheaper way to do this work. Rather than "Piece by Piece"

Saturday, September 18th, 2010 AT 6:17 PM

3 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
110,176 POSTS

First, let me know how many miles you put on the vehicle in one year. No, the calipers should not need replaced every brake job. Most last well over 100K. As far as the half shaft, that is a term refering to the axle with the CV joints already on it. Are you getting a clicking noise when turning? Are the CV boots ripped? And for the wheel bearings, does it sound like you are driving on snow tires? Does the sound change when you make turns? If so, let me know what direction.

Honestly, I find it really hard to believe all this work needs done at one time. It is uncommon for wheel bearings to go bad at the same time on different wheels as well as the axles/cv joints. As far as the brakes, if the calipers froze up in one year, ask them what is frozen the piston or the slides. Chances are neither are and they are selling more than you need. Often times, the rubber brake hose going to the caliper goes bad inside and allows fluid to move in one direction and not the other. Thus, it seems as if the caliper is frozen.

Let me know about the mileage you put on the vehicle.

Joe

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Saturday, September 18th, 2010 AT 7:01 PM

KWZ11

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Joe thank you for your quick response. The mileage for this year is 22,000. My brother replaced the calibers and pads in July of last year(2009). At that point one of the calibers was "frozen". So, we replaced both. I was told it was the pistons that froze (by the mechanic). My car does "squeak" on the driver's side. Kinda like a 'humming" sound. Sometimes a "clicking" noise when turning. The mechanic that replaced the wheel bearings again. Did show me the brake pads. They were really worn on one side. Sears did the work the first time. Last year.I am now going to a smaller shop. I am just concerned about doing the work twice. Or if Sears just really messed up the first time. Causing this 'rework"

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Saturday, September 18th, 2010 AT 9:58 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
110,176 POSTS

My concern is that the caliper shouldn't be bad again. Try what I said. If the piston is frozen, open the bleeder to see if the piston will then push in. The rubber brake hose will cause problems if it is bad inside. What happens is this. The hose deteriates inside. When you push the brake pedal, the pressure is great enough to force the fluid through the hose and actuate the caliper. When you release the brake pedal, the fluid should release, but the restriction in the hose doesn't allow the pressure to go back to the master cylender. Thus, it seems like the piston is frozen, the brakes don't release, and the brakes wear out really fast.

However, if you got 22K out of them, that really isn't that bad.

Let me know if you have other questions.

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Sunday, September 19th, 2010 AT 1:04 PM