Need BCM part number?

Tiny
AMBERTURNER2025
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 BUICK REGAL
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 55,000 MILES
Hello, wWondering if you can lookup the BCM part number for me with my VIN for my 2003 Buick Regal ls.

VIN number is 2G4WB55K131169329

Also is there a plug and play option for this, since I will be replacing this myself and have no idea how to program it. And this is my only car so I can't be without the car to send in the old module to be cloned.
Monday, September 8th, 2025 AT 5:27 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 15,541 POSTS
Looking up the part number is easy, 10317908. However that is just a common BCM used in multiple vehicles. It is the programming that makes it usable in your vehicle. For that it has to be installed and connected to a Tech 2 or equivalent scan tool in order to be initialized to your vehicle. While connected in the same session you also need to set up all of the keys or the BCM will lock you out. Cloning isn't really an option on them either as they send signals through other modules as they are set up and the keys programmed in. What is the reason for the BCM replacement?
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Monday, September 8th, 2025 AT 6:17 PM
Tiny
AMBERTURNER2025
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Okay, well all of a sudden my daytime running lamps aren't coming on, when I open the drivers door and take the keys out, it dings like there is something still on, my dash lights stopped working and my stereo keeps resetting its self. Also my trunk lights stopped working. And it's shifting hard. This all seemed to start happening when I plugged in that stupid snapshot device from progressive. I removed it yesterday after doing some research online.I'm not sure what else to do. The DRL sensor on the dash is not covered either. I don't think it is the ignition, it starts up fine, no clicking, no weird tach jumping when I jiggle the keys. All the fuses are good, in the inside fuse box and under the hood. I also checked my transmission fluid, it's not muddy looking or anything so I think it's something electrical making it shift rough. I'm hoping removing the snapshot device will help, after the computers cycle a few times. Rn I'm just stumped, I'm definitely not a mechanic but I'm pretty well versed on basic understanding and repairs. Oh and the battery is brand new, although I did have one time a could months ago wear I went to get in the car and it was dead, and I could not figure out why. No lights left on, no doors open etc. I jumped it with my jump pack and it started right up but I had to leave it running for a good hour because I tried shutting it off the key locked in place and wouldn't start until I jumped it again. Sorry this is kind of unorganized. Any advice you could give would be great.

I should also add that my speedometer still works and the check engine lights are still on(was like that when I got it from my grandpa) also my gas gauge and rpm gage is still working. But now all of a sudden the interior lights on the rearview mirror just started working.
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Tuesday, September 9th, 2025 AT 6:24 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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OK, as it started with the snapshot, I would remove that, then disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Reconnect it and go for a drive. Many of the items you describe sound like the system is losing the keep alive power that hold the adaptive things like shifting, clock memory and more. That can cause the shifting and light issues. Disconnecting may reset the system so it can relearn them and then store them. To go with that it would be a good idea to check the fuses, it's possible that one of the memory fuses blew and it is causing this. The fastest way to do that is to get a cheap test light, and run the fuses with it.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse
Be sure the key is on. Check the fuses in the under hood block as well as the instrument panel block (right side between the door and IP)
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+1
Tuesday, September 9th, 2025 AT 8:19 AM
Tiny
AMBERTURNER2025
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Ok thank you. So much
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Tuesday, September 9th, 2025 AT 1:36 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Hope you find a bad fuse. If not there are a couple more steps before replacement.
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Tuesday, September 9th, 2025 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
AMBERTURNER2025
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So I took that snapshot out and that seems to have fixed most of the issues. Now the only problem is on of the fuses inside the cab keeps popping everytime I try to replace it. And there are 2 other fuses that are getting no power to them at all. Any advice on what that could be?
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Wednesday, September 10th, 2025 AT 9:54 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Can you tell the fuse numbers from these images? That might give us a clue.
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Wednesday, September 10th, 2025 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
AMBERTURNER2025
  • MEMBER
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I marked the ones that aren't working in red. The 15 amp keeps popping everytime we try to put a new one in. The 7.5 amp one there's no power, and the 10 amp only reads power on half of it.
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Thursday, September 11th, 2025 AT 4:46 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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OK, the 10 amp is bad then. Remove it and check the connections in the box, They can corrode off or they get hot and open up. That one alone will keep it from running.

The 15 amp is the tail lights, that can be a short in the rear harness so it blows instantly. It also feeds the 7.5 amp circuit. Let's see about the 10 amp first and maybe get it running. Then if you don't mind log in and ask a new question about the lights. We try to keep topics in separate sections to make searching easier. So someone looking for taillights wouldn't look at BCM part numbers. https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new Post the same image and info about those 2 fuses. Thank you.
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Thursday, September 11th, 2025 AT 8:35 PM

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