Air suspension problems and reset?

Tiny
PCDJ64
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 368,000 MILES
The air suspension no longer cycles when I turn the key on after resetting everything.
it is not sagging and rides fine but I never hear the compressor.
fuse eleven under dash, fuse twenty one under hood and relay are fine.
no warning lights or trouble codes present.
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have the same problem?
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No
Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 8:58 AM

29 Replies

Tiny
JIS001
  • EXPERT
I would not worry about it until it becomes an issue. If the bags start to sag and compressor does not come on then diagnose it. Compressor is only going to come on when the bags start to go down.
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 9:57 AM
Tiny
ABDULLAH ALHAFIZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 4.8L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
My Rear Air Spring Suspension Shock blew up and it is expensive where I live. So I changed to regular springs and the light turned on and it says "check air suspension".
Is there a way to turn it off?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
This worked on older Town Cars so it is work trying on your vehicle as I don't think anything changed. Locate the air suspension control module behind the glove box and unplug the lower connector. This connector contains the circuity for the dash communication and it should turn the light off if it is not communicating. Clearly you do not need the control module if you don't have air suspension.

After this, we are going to need to perform some surgery on the cluster and that is not desirable. Also, I have not researched it but there may be companies out there that can trick the module and not turn the light on by reprogramming it. Clearly we can get into that if this does not work. Thanks
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABDULLAH ALHAFIZ
  • MEMBER
Thanks, I will try it.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Sounds great. Please keep us updated because that would be great to know if it works on this model year as well. If not, we can figure something else out. Thanks
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMMCCLURG
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 16,000 MILES
Air suspension does not work. Compressor does not run. Would like to replace compressor first before proceeding to air bags. I know it is located on drivers side wheel well, but can not find access.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
You have to remove the air cleaner, then there is a cover that you have to remove, then you can get to the compressor.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOMMCCLURG
  • MEMBER
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I was trying to approach from the wheel well.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MEMBER
No problem. Good luck!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JESPSS
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Hi, this is Jim. I have the car listed above. Last week the Ford dealer removed the rear air springs and they were replaced by using an air ride delete kit. When I received the vehicle back there was a popping sound coming from the rear of the car. When I returned it today, I was told that the rear axle seals were leaking and that they had leaked fluid into the breaks causing it to rust and make the popping noise. When I asked if this could have been caused by change out of shocks and springs could have caused this, I was told that it would not have, because they weren t even close to that area. Now, I don't believe in coincidences. What do you think?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
I would highly doubt them removing the air springs and shocks could cause the axle seals to leak. They are unrelated parts and wouldn't have been touched to change the shocks out. However axle seal leaks wouldn't cause rusting, they would be leaking oil. It generally makes a mess and collects brake dust. Your vehicle uses a small drum brake inside the rear disc as the parking brake, that would be where the problem was. That design loves to rust and the springs break and they bind up. Especially on a vehicle where you don't use them much if at all. What may have happened is that when they were working on it one of the parking brake cables moved a bit and stuck when they lifted the car up to get the old parts out. Then the rusted parts in the brakes started hitting and made noise. Not really something that was the shops fault, just age and rust causing a problem.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JESPSS
  • MEMBER
Steve, thank you so much for your quick answer. You explained everything very well. The seal on the right rear has leaked as there is an oil spot in my garage and the inner part of the tire is covered in oil. Though, I did think that the shocks were attached to the axle and that during the process, at least the tires would have to be removed and the axle supported somehow. Also, they did a 4 wheel alignment, could this cause old seals to leak?

As I said, I don't believe in coincidences, and since it started popping when I picked the vehicle up, it is hard for me to believe that something didn't happened in the shop. I understand that when cars are old with a lot of miles, they become more brittle.

I look forward to what you think. Thanks again!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
As I said it would be real hard to damage that seal with anything they did. There is a labyrinth of parts around it and none of those would have been removed. They would have pulled the tires off. However the brake disk and the Pbrake drum would have been on. Under it are the shoes and springs like the last pic. The seal is where the arrow is. The third pic is where the seal goes at the outer edge of the tube. However if you look at the 2nd picture you can see the tone wheel that is on the axle. That sits down over the axle tube like a hat.

They wouldn't have touched any of that to remove the suspension parts. Just removed the tires for better access. Then for the air ride they would have shut off the suspension, released the air from the springs and replaced the shocks and added the metal springs. I have done a few myself on various makes with air ride when the parts are made of gold and a conversion is a under 300 to eliminate a host of problems.

I could see it if the leak was a rusted steel brake line as it would be easy to hit those and break a rusted one, but that would be noticed real quick and repaired.

I really cannot think of a way they could damage an axle seal without going into the housing and to do that they would have needed to remove the rear brake caliper, then the rotor, then drain the rear axle and remove the cover to remove the axle clips, then pull the axle out far enough that something could get into it, then put it all back together and refill the axle lube and put the brakes back together.
I could see if the tone ring and brake were all rusted that it might stick if the parking brake was applied. Then if the tone wheel was rusted internally a piece of rust could have broke free and fell just right to cut the seal, but I would think the seal is either worn out or cracked from age. I suppose the rear spring that tensions the lip on the seal could have broke and let it leak but without taking it apart myself to verify what caused the seal to fail, I doubt it was anything the shop did.

I have had more than a few similar situations, as have most shops. You put brakes on the rear of the car, the drivers door latch fails. Or you replace the parts that were causing the engine to run rich and as soon as the converter test runs it sets a code because the rich mix caused the converter to fail.

One thing I would do for the repair on that axle. Replace both seals and go through the parking brake with new parts so it works. Also check the axle bearings for wear, if they are worn it can cause the axle to move around and the seals can fail from the motion. The bearing uses the axle as the inner race and a damaged bearing can chew up the axle pretty quick and cause seal failure very fast.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WESTERNREACH
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 53,000 MILES
Hi, just purchased this car from an elderly couple (original owners, never a cab)
rear suspension won't raise. Compressor cycles every 10-15 minutes (very loudly) but Car won't raise. No warning lights on dash. Please advise, thanks in advance.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • EXPERT
Most common cause is dry cracked airbags, and failed compressor as a result. If you can hear the compressor running, get a spray bottle with soapy water and spray the bottom of the airbag. Usually will see bubbles instantly, which indicates a massive air leak that is keeping the bags from inflating. I've attached an illustrated picture of the fuses and relay associated with the air suspension so you can check them.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WESTERNREACH
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the reply, as soon as the snow lets up I will venture out there.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • EXPERT
You're welcome!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PCPOWELL
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
Suspension problem
2001 Lincoln Town Car

my rear passenger air suspension bag is not working. Can you replace just that one bag or do I have to purchase a brand new kit for both sides? And, could it also be only a sensor or the solenoid that needs to be replaced, and how would we figure that out with out spending too much money?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RICKMAR
  • MEMBER
Check inside your trunk to see if the switch is "OFF". There should be a label near it that explains when it needs to be "OFF".

If it is the air bag leaking. I am almost positive you need to replace both. I hope i'm wrong.
That alone is "unavoidable" BIG $$ repair.
$400.00! Each.

I hope it is just the switch in the "OFF" position.
Good Luck;
Rick
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:15 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEPOH
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 106,000 MILES
Well, I keep losing air pressure in suspension. When first happen I replaced relay and it was good for a day or two. Then I was going somewhere and after about a block away I lost all pressure. Then came home the pump would keep kicking on and the car wouldn't lift. So the next day I went out and turned the key on and pumped right up to normal level. So I didn't drive it and I came out a day or two later and I started the car that was still sitting level and it went right down again with the pump running and it wouldn't pump up after trying a hour, so went out the next day and started back up. Then pump kicked on it went right back up. The only thing I can think is the control module. I had to get gas in it so after it pumped up I turned switch off in trunk and drove it there and back.I don't know that will hurt anything?
Thank you help you can give.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 12:16 PM (Merged)

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