Misfiring

Tiny
DIVIDES
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 AUDI A4
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,000 MILES
Had several codes first deleted then and now just stuck with misfire on three. Here are some numbers if it helps. I moved coils around and didn't help. Checked for vacuum leaks. PCV works as it should when I remove the cap. P303 and p3000
Monday, May 9th, 2022 AT 11:26 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
DIVIDES
  • MEMBER
  • 898 POSTS
Also, removed spark plug and its wet and the cylinder top is wet. Switched the around still getting same code. Sounds like an injector. Maybe one is just dumping fuel? I smell gas too.
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Monday, May 9th, 2022 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
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Car smooths out once I rev the motor to 2,000.
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Monday, May 9th, 2022 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
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Dang, compression is zero and next to it is 120, how is it possible to have it that low? Would the cylinder having so much fuel on it maybe a reason? Strange because when I delete the code it drives excellent, and when I rev it it's so smooth.
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Monday, May 9th, 2022 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
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And the top of the cylinder has lots of carbon.
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Monday, May 9th, 2022 AT 12:13 PM
Tiny
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Please see if you can find anything on burnt valve that may be causing this as I see it in lots of forums.
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Monday, May 9th, 2022 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Looks like you are on your way to solving this one. Basically, if you have zero compression then that is the cause of the misfire and the reason there is fuel. Basically, the engine needs fuel, spark, and compression in order to ignite the mixture.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

The next thing to do in order to find out if there is a burnt/bent valve or ring issue is to run a cylinder leak test.

Basically, this is putting a certain amount of compressed air to the cylinder in TDC on the compression stroke when the valves are closed and then we find out how much is leaking and where. You check the cooling bottle, intake, exhaust pipe, oil fill cap to see where you can hear and feel the air escaping.

Here is a good video that will help with this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHli-wLy9_o

Let me know what you find with this, and we can go from there.

Thanks
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Tuesday, May 10th, 2022 AT 9:24 AM
Tiny
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I see, I don't have the air tool to do that, all I have is the compression gauges.
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Tuesday, May 10th, 2022 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. You can still check this, but you will not be able to measure the amount of loss, but we basically know we are losing compression somewhere.

You do this by removing the Schrader valve from your compression tester hose that threads into the spark plug hole. Then instead of hooking your compression gauge to that hose, you hook up an air hose from a compressor. Then put the engine on TDC of the compression stroke and put about 25-50 PSI to the cylinder and see where the air is coming out.

However, just make sure when you put the air to the cylinder that the engine does not turn over. Basically, you are putting air on the top of the piston so it is going to push the piston down which will open the valves and can cause us to get false readings.
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Tuesday, May 10th, 2022 AT 10:21 AM

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