2000 Mercedes Benz E320 Runs for ten minutes then dies, Will not start

Tiny
DW_GARDNER
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 MERCEDES BENZ E320
Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Mercedes Benz E320 6 cylinder Two Wheel Drive Automatic 120,000 miles

When I start the Car it runs just find for ten or twelve minutes then it dies. It will not restart for about forty to forty five minutes. We have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. When it dies there is no fuel pressure at the injector rail and the pump is not getting any power. It does the same thing over and over you can almost time it every time. There are no engine lights on. I think it has a fuel cutoff switch but I cannot locate it, the only other thing would be one of the modules under the hood on the passenger side.
Any suggestions will help. These parts are not cheap.

Thanks
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Thursday, March 11th, 2010 AT 8:13 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Hi dw_gardner, Welcome to 2carpros and thank you for the donation

If there is no power reaching the red and green wire at the fuel pump connector-check fuse no.6 25amp in the rear fuse box below right rear seat, if fuse is okay test the fuel pump relay module under rear seat-See Pic K 27. If okay test the polarity protection relay at right rear of engine compartment, last place will be the computer controlled of the fuel pump.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_k27_1.jpg

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Thursday, March 11th, 2010 AT 11:27 PM
Tiny
DW_GARDNER
  • MEMBER
I have checked the fuse and replaced the k27 FP relay. The picture you posted did not show the polarity protection relay very well or the computer controller. With it doing the same thing over and over and nothing different that would seem to be like a relay more than a solid state controller? I always thought a computer controller would work or not work. It just seems like it runs for the exact same amount of time then dies, like its on a timer.

Thanks
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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
I have looked in my All-data, but nothing in there about the polarity protection relay. Disregard the first location of the polarity protection relay. Try checking in the passenger side fuse and relay module box. Sorry still no picture available.

Try this; power the fuel pump red and green wire from the battery and tell me what happen. Also before you do this check fuse no.5 20 amp same location as the polarity protection relay.
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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
DW_GARDNER
  • MEMBER
I checked every fuse and none was bad, I replaced the relays with new ones, they were not bad either. I will not be able to hot wire the fuel pump until tomorrow. I have tried two different fuel pumps and both do the same thing. I am starting to think it might be the Computer Controller Module. It is $700.00 and the last thing I want to replace. Would that module cause it to run for fifteen minutes then shut off the fuel supply? I have to let it sit for thirty to forty five minutes before it will start again.
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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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That is the last place. I do not want you to go the computer controls the ground side of the fuel pump relay. Go ahead and do the hard wire on the pump and let me know.
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Friday, March 12th, 2010 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
DW_GARDNER
  • MEMBER
Okay, we hot wired the fuel pump and it still died after twelve minutes or so like every other time. I checked to see if we had spark an we do not. We did not check that last time. So know what? I am guessing there is something else killing the car.
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Saturday, March 13th, 2010 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Have the fuel pump relay control module and the computer controlled of the relay checked out.
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Monday, March 15th, 2010 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
DOUGLASJ8
  • MEMBER
I would like to say that your crank position sensor is defective. This is what corrected my 2000 E320 Mercedes which was reacting the same as your's. A defective crank sensor will cause the fuel pump relay to lose it feed.
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Sunday, August 1st, 2010 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
RLCOFMN
  • MEMBER
I agree with the previous reply, I had identical symptoms twelve minutes and die, after cooling down again it would run. Monitored the sensor with an Oscilloscope and the signal would drop after about ten or twelve minutes when it heated up and probably opened a cracked/broken wire.

Also, these forums work better if the original submitter says what eventually fixed the problem! That way we do not always have to shot gun it!
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Thursday, August 26th, 2010 AT 4:48 PM

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