Replace the master cylinder yourself. They are not that difficult to do. That is number one. The oil and crankcase leak should be done together and that depends on the amount of oil you are leaking. I assume you are talking about a seal on the engine when you talk about the crankcase leak. The left axle seal leak, is that the CV boot?
Why is thing so rough? There aren't that many miles on it. Manual tranny or automatic?
You have them listed in the order I would do them except that I would do the two engine oil leaks first. If the seal is the leak on the crankcase, I would have them check the play of the crank for wear of the bearings.
January, 9, 2007 AT 11:54 AM
Thanks for the tips! I'm not quite handy enough to replace the master cylinder on my own, I don't think. While I can put in a new car stereo and speakers, I don't know much under the hood.
The car has been driven extensively for work so has put on a lot of wear and tear in just a few years. It actually has just over 120,000 miles at this point, but I still think it should last another 2-3 years considering we'll be driving it much less now. 150,000 miles shouldn't be an issue these days.
Thanks again. Have a great day!
January, 9, 2007 AT 8:01 PM
Actually none of these things are uncommon at this age.
The crank seals yend to leak on htese engine and the oil pan gaskets tend to get a little cooked by the exhaust (being soo close) over time. The diff cover is a no brainer, its justa silicone seal and tends to leak after time (every seen a ford or chev cover not leak?)
The axle seal might not neat o be done right away of your not losing tranny fluid.
Now the brake master leaking. Hmmmm. There was a bulletin on the master cyl resevoir caps leaking, making it look like the master was leaking. There is an updated fluid cap.