1998 Mazda 626 Engine quits after warming up

Tiny
MAXVELOCITY
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 MAZDA 626
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 14,400 MILES
My 1998 626 lx 5spd 4cyl. Dies after getting warmed up after approx. 30 mins. If it stays cooler on the freeway it may run longer. Shorter during stop and go traffic. On warm days it dies even sooner. The car is not over heating though.

We have checked and eliminated all codes, even changed the engine relays. It performs like the recall notice that came out for the reprograming of the ecu(?). After about 10 mins. When the engine is cooled it will restart and run normal. The tach keeps sensing the rpm as I decelerate while coasting in gear with the engine dead, so I do not think it is the Crank Position sensor. Help!
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Friday, April 2nd, 2010 AT 3:47 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi maxvelocity,

Thank you for the donation.

When engine stalled you have to wait before it can restart?

When restarting was not possible, did you test what was missing, fuel or ignition?
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Sunday, April 4th, 2010 AT 8:45 AM
Tiny
MAXVELOCITY
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I would be able to restart after a wait of about 5 mins. Ignition was firing when it would quit. After it would stall, I could hear the fuel injectors resetting with a clicking noises coming from them.

The check engine and the red door/key lights would lilluminate when stalled. Yet, it would still leave no codes. After waiting and getting a restart, if the red light along with check eng. Would remain off, the idle would be reliable and steady allowing me to take off and drive for a short way (1 mile). It seems that the warmer the day and the more I stop and go, the more likely it is to die.

Driving at higher speeds (40mph +) seemed to give me more driving time before stalling. I do not know how to check for fuel flow. The checking we performed earlier (codes, etc.) Were done at a Mazda specialty shop (not dealer) he fixed all my vacuum leaks but failed to resolve my problem.
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Sunday, April 4th, 2010 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Clicking the " First Thing to Check " link would show you how to go about checking for fuel flow.

The clicking noise could be a fault with the wiring circuit or a relay problem.

Let me know what you find.
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Sunday, April 4th, 2010 AT 9:47 AM
Tiny
MAXVELOCITY
  • MEMBER
I forgot to add that we had changed out both engine relays. No change.

I don't know if the mech had checked for fuel flow. But the engine sounds like it is leaning out when it dies. Knocking sounds as the rpm's die off. This is what that factory recalll was for, requiruing ecu re-progaming.

It will run longer at freeway speeds with a higher fuel demand than at stop and go city driving. Things don't add up.
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Sunday, April 4th, 2010 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
To test the fuel, you would need a pressure gauge.

Problem seems to be from the ECU. Though the recall had been done, I would suggest getting it rechecked.
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Sunday, April 4th, 2010 AT 12:47 PM

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