1994 Mazda 626 CD4E Tranny rebuild-Hold Light

Tiny
SSHIREY
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 MAZDA 626
Transmission problem
1994 Mazda 626 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I just completed a full rebuild on my CD4E tranny. After installing it yesterday it was shifting through the gears just fine. I installed the tires and put the car on the ground. When I put it in Reverse it stated to move then the HOLD light started flashing. When I put it in drive it'll move. I rebuilt it step by step by the guide book and I used to be a technician. I started it this morning and put it in reverse, it engaged and started to move and the HOLD light started flashing again. I've read the HOLD light means it's a computer control issue, but I've also read it's a Fail save mode meaning there's damage to the transmission and the pressure gets maxed out. I put a shift kit in the valve body to reduce the trans pressure, because I heard the trannys had a pressure problem. Should I do a pressure check on the tranny or do I need to remove it and go through it again? Please help. I'm getting frustrated now.
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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 9:34 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
Let's not panic just yet. The first one I rebuilt didn't work either. I also did it step by step out of a book. Turns out, the core I rebuilt had had water in it at one time, froze and cracked one of webs in the valve body and I hadn't seen it. Anyway, enough for ancient history. On to yours. I would very definately run a pressure test on it. Especially on the regulated pump pressure. About all else you can check is low and reverse unless you drive it. If pressures check out to specs, I would run it around the block once or twice or spin it up on blocks through the gears and then trouble shoot the "hold" light. Good luck and keep me posted.
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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
SSHIREY
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The funny thing was when I had it in the air and running it through the gears it was great and it felt strong. That's why I was supprised when I go it on the ground. I'll be taking pressure measurments Wednesday night. I'll post them when I'm done. Thank you.
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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
JAMES W.
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I'll be looking for your response, Jim
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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
SSHIREY
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The kit I installed was the TransGo SK CD4E-Jr Shift Kit. My line pressure test results were as follows: Park, Neutral 11psi, should be 64-76, Reverse 10psi, should be 64-76, D-2-1 11psi should be 45-63. It's telling me main controls, oil pumpsseblies, Clutch assemblies, oil filter, and seal assembly, recirculating seal. I believe some of these I can rule out due to the rebuild. It still flashes the hold light, but I believe it's due to the low pressure. I think it's probably the shift kit. I need to reverse it and see if it helps.
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Thursday, November 13th, 2008 AT 10:30 PM
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
You're hot on the trail, man. When you installed the shift kit, you may have thought you were raising the regulator pressure when you actually lowered it. I've installed a lot of shift kits over the years and really never had much luck with them. You'll figure it out. Look at it as a learning experience.
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Friday, November 14th, 2008 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
SSHIREY
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Okay. I got the valve body out this afternoon. I ran through the air testing again. The one thing that stood out to me was the fact that I had failed to torque down the Pressure Tap Plate bolts on the face of the Accumulator body assembly. I am assuming this would cause fluid to just blow through without alllowng pressure to build up in the valve body. Would that be correct? Could tht have caused me to have such low pressures?
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Sunday, November 16th, 2008 AT 10:14 PM
Tiny
JAMES W.
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What you found would cause the problem. Just be sure if there is a paper gasket there, that I't didn't blow it out.
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Monday, November 17th, 2008 AT 9:25 AM
Tiny
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Do you think I should tighten them to spec, put it back together and try it again? When I first started the car it was strong. I'm thinking it only took a second for it to leak past since they were on;y finget tight.
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Monday, November 17th, 2008 AT 10:20 AM
Tiny
JAMES W.
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Making sure the gasket is "OK", if there is one, yes, torgue it to specks and slam that bugger back in. It should run like a swiss watch. Good luck, Jim
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Monday, November 17th, 2008 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
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Well the gasket is still good. I just got in a hurry putting it back together and forgot to tighten them. I'll tighten it and put it back together in the next few days. If that doesn't do it, I'll be back with you. Thanks for the support
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Monday, November 17th, 2008 AT 12:11 PM
Tiny
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Well, I rechecked the valve body and retorqued it this weekend. The line pressures are good at WOT, probably a little high. The car will now drive around the block and do just fine, except when I get on the incline of the driveway. The tranny won't hold itself. It feels like it's slipping and the hold light will flash. It's a pretty good incline, but I know it's not quite right yet. Any suggestions? I think I need to go back through it.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
JHD_JR
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Hi,
I have exactly the same problem after rebuilding my CD4E, the tranny would engage in drive if on the jack stand but would not engage if put on the ground. If you rev the engine on drive between 2 to 3k on the ground, the car would suddenly jerk for a moment and that's it. Reverse and Low is fine. Were you able to fix this issue. I would really need your help.
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Monday, April 16th, 2012 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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You have to ask a new question not reply to an old 1. Dont know if jim is still around, you might better PM him if he is.
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Monday, April 16th, 2012 AT 8:18 PM

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