I cannot drive at all for the transmission feels like something is wrong

Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 FORD F-150
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 67,000 MILES
I cannot drive at all for the transmission feels like it is going to come through floorboard?
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 6:55 AM

23 Replies

Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
Hmm I am scratching my head on this one at the moment.

The P0299 Code indicates an "under-boost" condition on one of the turbo's. And the P054C indicates a problem with the Variable Valve Timing on one of the cams, (Bank 2) it says that it is too advanced.

I am trying to see how these codes could be related to each other or if it is just a coincidence. As far as the noise goes, since the turbos are mounted low and to the rear of the engine, perhaps you are mistaking it for the transmission? Is it possible to get a recording of the noise?

Jon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 7:51 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
By seeing the transmission mount looks like it is going up and down a lot? I can push up and down on transmission easy.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 8:06 AM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
Yikes! Hard to really tell exactly where the noise is from the video but wow! I wish I could get under my Explorer that easy! So when you are under there, where exactly does that loud banging sound come from? The front, middle, or rear of the transmission? Are the U-joints okay as well? Also, can you give me some history of perhaps what happened before this? Were you out mudding or anything?

Jon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
It has a 12" lift with 38" tires. I drove it through seven feet of water during Hurricane Harvey for a month and then did not change oil for another two months. I have changed the front wheel bearing twice since then and now this clunking started very lightly and then progressed rapidly in two days. I have checked all hoses I had some fixes I fixed but the noise is really hard to tell. I am going to send a better video.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
Okay, it is hard to say for sure but I swear from the audio that the noise is coming from the rear of the vehicle. Can you take the driveshaft off and check both U-joints, and while that is out I would turn the pinion shaft on the differential and see if you feel any clunking from inside the differential housing.

Could be that water intruded into the U-joints and caused some damage there or perhaps you had water work its way into the differential housing and damaged the bearings or gears.

I do not blame you for not not driving it! One thing is for sure, the codes you gave earlier are definitely not related to this clunking noise!

Jon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I did everything you just mentioned and it is not as bad, but there is something still going on back there. I am letting the battery reset now to clear codes and start over. It is hard to get anyone to work on this truck due to the lift. Thanks for everything!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
So the U-joints were okay and not binding up?
Could you feel the clunking when you turned the pinion shaft?

As to the codes, the low boost code is turbo related, and the other code is for the Variable Valve timing.

The low boost could mean a seized turbo bearing (thinking about the water you mentioned). Or it could be a result of the second code you mentioned (but that would be a stretch of the imagination).

The VVT code is puzzling. There is a regulator that controls the cam timing hydraulically using the engine oil pressure. It could be that the regulator is stuck open causing the came to run fully advanced. This will cause cylinder pressures to drop but I am not sure if it would be enough to cause low flow to the hot side of the turbo. I suppose it is possible. I would check the pressure regulator(s) for water damage and corrosion in the wiring. I am not familiar with that specific engine so I will have to dig a little to find exactly where that regulator is.

Jon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Tuesday, November 6th, 2018 AT 11:50 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,357 POSTS
It sounds like the differential is having an issue and the noise is telescoping up the drive shaft. Please remove the driveshaft and turn the pinion or remove the rear differential cover and inspect. These guides can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-remove-a-drive-shaft

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/differential-service

Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Yes sir, I completed those steps but the clunking has not gone away. I am at the point now going to change spark plugs? Maybe rear wheel bearings? What do you think?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Update : After completing all above steps I decided to air it out to see if it would clear up? No can do. At 70 mph it was beating underneath so bad I could not hear. Frustration got the best of me I floored it and BOOM is all I heard. Rear u-joints blew out which slung driveshaft out the rear the truck which sounded like an explosion. Perfect example of what not to do! So coasted 300 yards to leave it in a HEB parking lot. I walked back the 300 yards to find the driveshaft on the shoulder of the road split open with water still coming out the center of the driveshaft with white foam!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 7th, 2018 AT 9:56 PM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
Oh wow! Sorry to hear that. That is is why I kept asking about the u-joints. Since the driveshaft separated from the truck, I would recommend you take it in to be inspected and either repaired or replaced. Glad you are okay though! Still since the vehicle has been through such deep water, you should check and change all the fluids including the differential and transmission.

Jon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Thursday, November 8th, 2018 AT 3:07 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I am going to change u-joints today and find another driveshaft. I was real late getting the truck out the main Beltway here in Houston, but when it came out the BOOM it literally sounded as the motor blew up. I have DVR running around my vehicle and it is going to be something today when I do get it home to hear and see when it all happened, because I was pulling a big 16' box trailer and I swear it jumped 6' in the air and so did the back of my truck. I will post the video if you like. You guys where closer than anyone else. I know one thing about this issue do not let anyone convince you to air it out. Not a good outcome.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, November 8th, 2018 AT 5:09 AM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
That is a good plan. I would rather see you get a new shaft anyway. Trucks with lift kits like yours put a little extra pressure on the U-Joints so its good to keep an eye on them anyway but when you mentioned the deep water I figured it was worth a look at them. Just make sure you check those fluids. Let me know when you want to talk about the trouble codes you mentioned in your original question!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, November 8th, 2018 AT 6:56 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
With the trouble codes, when I blew out the driveshaft I pulled DTCs and there was oddly 0?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, November 8th, 2018 AT 7:06 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,357 POSTS
Yep, they do not plan for that kind of failure so there will be no codes.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Friday, November 9th, 2018 AT 12:45 PM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Update: know where the "clunk" is coming from. Changed the driveshaft, u-joints, plugs and coils. Still clunking not as bad though. So took driveshaft off and jacked in the air and here we have it, in the rear axle.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 10th, 2018 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
Oh definitely! Seeing as this vehicle was under water as you said. Most likely water got into the differential housing. I would remove the cover and axle shafts then inspect the whole rear axle assembly from wheel to wheel. Replace all bearings and seals etc. For that matter though it might be cheaper to buy a used unit. Make sure the gear ratio is the same if you do.

Which direction are you up for?
Jon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Sunday, November 11th, 2018 AT 5:31 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Huge final results: 456 gears ring and pinion was broke. Replaced the 456 with 410 drives like a dream. Did all the work myself. See pictures.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 17th, 2018 AT 7:53 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 46,357 POSTS
Nice! Yep that is what it sounded like. Nice work doing the job yourself. Can I ask how much the gears cost?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Saturday, November 17th, 2018 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
DERAIL HENTRICH
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
$125.00 complete set! The guy at Lone Star Ring and Pinion in Katy Texas.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, November 17th, 2018 AT 3:06 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links