Ok, if it's always there, could it be something other than the rotors? Do you have and / or know how to set up a dial indicator to measure sideways runout of the hubs? I don't want to bore you with stuff you already know. Even before you get that far, jack the car up and spin the tires by hand or by running the engine and watch the tire tread. If it squirms back and forth sideways or there is a noticeable hump, there is a broken tire belt. If the wheel also wobbles, the wheel could be bent. Neither of these are caused by the rotors. You should feel these problems even when not braking.
If the tires and wheels are true, remove the wheels and put the lug nuts back on with washers to hold the rotors tight, then use the dial indicator to check for rotor runout. Check on the wheel contact area and on the braking surface. If you see excessive runout on the wheel contact area and about twice as much on the braking surface, it is more likely ther is rust or other debris between the rotor and hub, or the hub is bent.
If the dial indicator shows very little runout on the wheel contact area but there is runout on the braking surface, the rotor would appear to be warped. A sticking caliper would be the most likely suspect, but since you already replaced them, look closer at using a torque wrench.
One other thing to consider is to press the brake pedal while the front wheels are off, then run up front and see if you can turn the rotors by hand. (Take your foot off the pedal). If you can not, open the bleeder screw and see if it releases. That will give us a bunch more to discuss.
Monday, March 22nd, 2010 AT 6:19 PM