See my profile. Test across your fuses (if you do not understand, I will explain) See if voltage is making it thru them. (While they are still installed)
Pull them and insure there is no corrosion on the tips
Even run a continuity test thru them while removed.
Check owners manual for locations you might not have looked for fuses.
Check for 12 Volts incoming, into the switch.
At brake switch---remove connector and "bypass" the switch using a jumper wire--See if lights come on.
Check connector at connector and on switch for POOR contact.
Check ACTUATION of the switch (mechanically) see if something is bent, out of alignment, installed incorrectly or worn---NOT FULLY ENGAGING THE SWITCH TRAVEL----even new stuff can be bad!
Using a meter with connector off (disconnected) run a continuity test thru the switch when Actuated and Not. See if it works correctly
Go under/ in your rig look for and--disconnect/ reconnect connections---that may be poor or loose or broke or skinned.
I am a CJ guy, I do not know your rig. But thats what I would test/ check 1st before tearing into something.
If you do not understand any of the testing, let me know, I will explain or show pics. Let me know.
For this testing, a CHEAP VOLTMETER is necessary and BEST. Anolog or Digital
You could get by with the Fuse test (while installed)and Test for voltage going to your switch, with a 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT. But more involved tests require a voltmeter.
Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 AT 5:16 PM