1984 Jeep CJ7 looking for an awnser

Tiny
BEELER1
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 JEEP CJ7
Electrical problem
1984 Jeep CJ7 4 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual

I've been trying to figure this out for a while now, when I start my jeep it cranks over and then when I turn the key back it keeps cranking, and the only way to get it to quit is pull cable off battery or tap selenoid, so I put new selenoid (starter) new starter and even tried installing a push button ignition, what am I missing what oyher options do I have
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 2:06 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check and test the starter relay and ignition switch if both okay-the start circuit is shorted to a live wire
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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See my profile and other CJ 5/7 answers in their respective forums that I have answered.

I know CJs very well--you will see, in the other answers, the extent, I can and will help you.

I am not a Paid Mechanic, nor paid here----You can still donate and the other fellers will benefit who are paid here (seems they get very little reimbursment for the amount of time they spend doing this)

I get nothing! I do this as a Hobby, and I get really personal and tedious with my CJ answers.

There are not machines answering questions here--- JUST REAL PEOPLE, replies are appreciated---it lets us know you realize its not automated here----Votes and feedback (on the upper part of the page) Help too--lets the next, poor victim know the Reputation of his ANSWER-ER!!!

Back to you, I am sending a Pic or two of HOW YOU SHOULD BE HOOKED UP AT THE SOLENOID....there can be no variations here!----additional accesories hook up with existing accessories on the solenoid.

Respond after testing, your stuff to be like mine.

Come back give results---I will continue helping till you are fixed!

Remember, we cannot see what "Jim-Bob" next door did to your rig a month ago!

You are our eyes and hands.

The stuff below is sorta intended to help others with various issues related to the solenoid...so I constructed it to help more than just your problem!

The Medic

TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID (NEW STUFF CAN BE DEFECTIVE ALSO!). Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does. (voltages at different locations and when voltage should occur)

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunting and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, "looks" of a solenoid vary according to type vehicle, function is the same.

IF YOU HAVE A CJ (this is what these pics are taken of), YOU SHOULD PUT YOUR WIRES IN THE EXACT LOCATIONS AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAMS BELOW----TEST "S" WIRE, while it is removed from the solenoid (12V ONLY w/key cranking [starting position],) AND INSURE IT GOES ON LOCATION "C"


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION (via "RESISTOR WIRE, COMING FROM YOUR "ACTUAL IGNITION SWITCH"). IGNITION SWITCH IS "ROD OPERATED" AND IS LOCATED 12 O'CLOCK ON YOUR STEERING COLUMN....OTHER SIDE OF DASH...OVER YOUR PEDALS

7) "MOUNT GROUND", UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (and Grounds from BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED (labeled), MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND (wire is NOW! missing in the insulation).

People tend to rig up stuff/splice/remove things over the years....

Are you running a COIL---"EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY"?

The wire from your key (on position) is not all, but partly a RESISTANCE WIRE (its just like using a CERAMIC type resistor, even though its "just a wire")

This is the "Factory Reason" you must run, this type of coil!

UNLESS SMARTY-PANTS GOOFUS removed/bypassed/replaced/tied into it, years ago...now you have different problems!

The Medic
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Friday, July 30th, 2010 AT 6:25 PM

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