Issue starting the car

Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET EQUINOX
  • 3.4L
  • V6
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 174,000 MILES
Car has sat in driveway for almost a year due to ignition switch problems, finally removed the switch and housing off the steering column and the electrical ignition switch is now exposed, allowing me to take a screwdriver and turn it as if it were a key to start the car, however, upon first trying to start it the battery which I bought two weeks prior to the car being parked in the driveway for a year was bone dead. So I put it on a trickle charge over night and upon putting it back in the car turning the ignition to the on position, I have full electrical power, lights work, windows go up and down etc. However, when trying to start the car it just "clicks" as if the battery was dead. What could the issue be as to why it wont start?
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Monday, August 8th, 2016 AT 12:20 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
I do not know if it is your only problem or not but that ignition switch has an immobilizer built into it an you cannot start it that way.
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Monday, August 8th, 2016 AT 5:00 AM
Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
So what your saying is, if I get the replacment housing/cylinder/key etc, and install it back onto the car, it should start fine. Yes?

I had my sister come over with one of those quick jump boxes that you use to jump start the car, I hooked it up to the battery, and got the same thing. Not really a click, but just wont start.

If I may add this as a possible cause.

When I had the issue of the ignition locking, I had to have the car flat bedded to my house, the guy who transported the car went under the hood and manually shifted the lever in the engine compartment, I am assuming it is the shifter lever, to make it go into neutral so that he could winch the car onto the flatbed, and then into my driveway, I made sure that the lever was shifted so that is is now in park, atleast thats what the shifter lights inside by the shifter says, that its in park. But I was wondering if maybe that had something to do with it, you know. The whole neutral safety switch thing?

When I attached the quick boost box to the battery. It did the same exact thing. Not really a CLICK from the starter solinoid, but rather when turning the ignition switch, (again with a screwdriver because the key, cylinder and housing have been removed) so I am using a flathead screwdriver to turn the actual ignition SWITCH. Again, not really clicking, but the dash lights go out and it dont turn over. Just nothing.

Which leads me to this question. When disconnecting the housing etc, there was the ignition SWITCH, and the device that detects that the key has been turned and allows the shifter to shift out of park etc, also there is a small electrical plug with 3 wires going to one single plug, that plugs into the switch housing.I have no idea what that plug is for (would that be the immobilizer you spoke of?), Would that possibly cause the car to not start if its not plugged into the housing etc?

Thank you for your help
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 11:02 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Of course it will cause it not to start. There is a sequence of messages that the PCM has to receive ir it will not enable it to start. If the lock housing is damaged you are going to have to rebuild the whole package and then perform a relearn procedure.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
I ordered a new housing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401058613723

and lock cylinder

www.ebay.com/itm/321987568086

today, I am a bit disconcerted though due to the fact that the lock cylinder is not already keyed,

https://www.2carpros.com/images/external/s-l1600.jpg

and comes without keys and WITH tumblers that you must code yourself I am assuming???

Product Description - Long - 80: CYLINDER KIT,IGN LK (UNCODED)

Soooo, long story short, when I get the housing and lock cylinder, hopefully I will be able to install the tumblers myself without any issues, seems pretty straightforward (I watched a video on youtube about it), however, you stated that I then must perform a "RELEARN" procedure.....could you please explain what that is and how it's accomplished?

Again, I am mechanically inclined and have dismantled the steering column to remove the key lock housing etc with no problems, and if I had a decent drill and metal cutting drill bits in various sizes to progress in size, I would have drilled out the old lock cylinder and have been able to use the original housing and save $70, but that's neither here nor there at this point, as I said, I have ordered both the housing and the cylinder, and I have the original set of keys that I am going to have to install the tumblers to properly work with the original key.

Then go ahead and reinstall the housing etc back onto the steering column and put the shrouds back on and everything. As I said, pretty straightforward.... other than the performing the RELEARN procedure???

(On a side note)

I "THINK" that the ignition must have been replaced once already because of two reasons....

#1 The bolts that hold the housing onto the column were not the expected "security bolts" where the heads twist off when reaching a certain torque, but rather they were bolts that had the heads still on them, allowing removal to be much much easier.

#2 The steering wheel never "LOCKED" when the key was in the off position, and upon removal of the housing, I noticed that the BAR that slides onto/into the column to effectively "LOCK" the steering wheel into place was "NOT" there, there was no bar within the housing???? Weird!!

So, someone must have already replaced the ignition at one point, ya think?

Again, your help and advice is more than GREATLY appreciated, thank you VERY much !
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 4:55 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
30-Minute Learn Procedure

Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON. The vehicle will not start.
Observe the SECURITY telltale. After approximately 10 minutes, the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1-4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password.

IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
I will give that a shot when I receive the housing and cylinder and assuming I install the tumblers correctly. Lol. Once reinstalled, I will do as you pointed out and I will post back here either way, whether it works, or don't. There's nothing more that I hate ( well, yea there is). Than when you go online and read a forum post with someone asking for help with an issue, and the results of their story is incomplete because they most likely did something to fix their issue, and couldnt bother to come back and post the outcome. Lol. So it leaves everyone hanging wondering what happened and what actually fixed the issue. So yea, I will keep you updated once I receive the parts etc.

Again, thank you very much !
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
You are so right about that.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
When you say observe the security "telltale". Which indicator do you mean. The light on the dash?
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 5:18 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
There will be an indicator somewhere. Some use the message center, other have a light. Your owners manual should show you what it looks like.
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
Ok, again, thanks a lot. Stay tuned. Same bat time. Same bat channel !
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Tuesday, August 9th, 2016 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Please let us know how it goes so it will help others,, also I would do a battery load check.

Here is a guide that will help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-battery

Best, Ken
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Friday, August 12th, 2016 AT 9:43 AM
Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
Hey Ken,
I just wanted to toss you an update and let you know where I currently stand, lol. Weird choice of words I just used. Let me explain.

There has been an unexpected delay in my journey to fix the ignition. It turns out that I had a medical issue, I am type 2 diabetic and due to a medication I was prescribed for the first time, I had a bad reaction to it and my feet swelled up very badly and as a result, it made my feet split open in 3 spots, on the bottom of my left foot and on the insides/side of each of my big toes. Well. The left foot healed or is healing ok for now, however. The right toe got very infected and the infection went down to bone.

Long story short.I spent the past week in the hospital and had to have the big toe on my right foot amputated!
So, as you can imagine. It slowed down the whole "Must fix my car" attitude I had!

But rest assured, I will get it done. Slowly but surely! And I will be sure to update this post all the time so that there is is resolution that others can benefit from !

Where I currently "STAND". Lol. Is that I have received the 2 parts I ordered, the ignition housing & the cylinder!

Again, like I said. The cylinder did NOT come with a key, but rather it came with the tumblers and springs that you must code yourself to accept the original key!

And that's where I am currently "STUCK". Here's why. The original housing and cylinder was removed all together. And I cannot remove the cylinder from the housing due to damage I caused when attempting to hammer a screwdriver into it to try to get it to turn while still in the car! And I "MUST" somehow get it out of the housing so that I can disassemble it to see the order of the tumblers so that I can install the new tumblers in the same order so that my original key works !

Optionally, I assume that I may be able to contact the chevy dealership and they can possibly give me the code/order of the tumblers from using my VIN #? But since it is Sunday. They are currently closed, so I will try to contact them tomorrow and see if that is indeed possible. If not.I don't know what I am going to do?

So, thats where I am at ! I will update more as I can. Again, thanks for all your help. Chat soon !
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Sunday, August 21st, 2016 AT 10:08 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
If you buy the lock from the dealer they will sometimes code it for you.
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Sunday, August 21st, 2016 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
GNBANDITO
  • MEMBER
Yea, I believe you're correct.I didn't however, it was much cheaper to buy both parts separately and to buy each on ebay.

Ignition Lock Housing ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15242633
Item price $68.24

&

ACDelco D1411G Ignition Lock Cylinder
Item price $29.50

So, it came to approx. $90 as opposed to $140ish that it would have cost from the dealership!

Maybe $50 extra would have been worth it to circumvent having to code it myself. Lol

But then I would have had TWO different keys I would have had to carry, lol. One for the ignition and one for the door lock !

So I guess doing it myself is ok in the long run!

Again, chat soon & I will let you know how things go.
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Sunday, August 21st, 2016 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
RENEE
  • ADMIN
Sounds good, please let us know.
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Monday, August 29th, 2016 AT 9:31 PM

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