Intermittent problem starting

Tiny
PHARMER2010
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
Car has an intermittent problem starting after warm. Does not happen all the time. Will start cold, reliably. If run for a while, and shut off, the car will sound like it is trying to turn over. It cranks. Sometimes shutters. Sounds like the starter is going bad. The starter and battery cables have recent been replaced and did not fix the issue. (This issue started before they were replaced) Sounds like the fuel pump is engaging. Any suggestions?
Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 1:38 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,741 POSTS
This is commonly caused by a failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. They often fail by becoming heat-sensitive. As long as you are driving, natural air flow keeps them cool. When a hot engine is stopped, engine heat migrates up to the sensors, causing one to fail. It will usually work again after cooling down for about an hour.

Start by having the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. The people at many auto parts stores will do that for you for free. If there are no fault codes related to either sensor, you will need a scanner to see which signal is not showing up at the engine computer.
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
PHARMER2010
  • MEMBER
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The camshaft and crankshaft sensors have been replaced about a week ago. The car had the same problem this evening. Recently had to replace the water pump too. Any other ideas on what it could be?
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Wednesday, January 10th, 2018 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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Did you have the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded?

The next step is to determine if you're missing spark or fuel. If spark is missing, Ford has had a lot of trouble with their ignition coils, but your engine uses three of them, and it isn't likely they are all failing at the same time. They are driven by the Powertrain Control Module, and they are fed 12 volts from the "PCM Power Relay". Try swapping that with a different one like it. When the crank / no-start occurs, check for 12 volts on the red wire at the ignition coil pack. That should be there when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. You do not have to be cranking the engine for it to be there.

The next step would be to connect a scanner so you can view live data. Look at the cam and crank sensors to see if their signals are showing up during cranking. If one is missing, check its wiring and connector terminals. Normally this is where you'd find a defective sensor. When both signals are missing, look for what they have in common, which is their feed and ground wires. This is where the problem is almost always caused by a wiring problem, or the Engine Computer isn't powering them up.

If you have spark when the crank / no-start occurs, you're missing fuel. This usually isn't intermittent, but look at the fresh air hose between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body. There can't be any loose hose clamps, cracks, or other leaks in it. If any air sneaks in that doesn't go through the mass air flow senor, the computer won't know about it and won't calculate the right amount of fuel to go with it. The mass air flow sensor is another good suspect.
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Wednesday, January 10th, 2018 AT 7:26 PM

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