Interior dash removal

Tiny
MCHALE47
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 DODGE RAM
  • 5.9L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
I have a vacuum leak either cracked hose or servo leak. When I accelerate the air switches from vent level to defrost when I back off the throttle. I hear the plenum close and the air is back at vent air. I’ve taken the vacuum hoses off the back of the dash controller and applied 10psi. They all hold vacuum. I’ve also check out on Intake manifold hoses and check valves they hold a vacuum as well.
My dash is in real bad shape and I’m trying to restore some of the things that are breaking like maybe the entire dash.
Can someone give me another solution to fix the air or is this a common thing that goes wrong with these trucks? I feel like ripping the dash out physically to get to the vacuum line but need help.
Thanks
Saturday, June 29th, 2019 AT 6:02 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

The most common problem is the hard plastic vacuum hose they use. Often times, it will crack and create a leak that is unseen.

Now, there is one vacuum supply from the engine that runs to the control panel and then vacuum is distributed based on requirements. Here is a test that explains how to locate a vacuum leak in the HVAC system. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

Let me know if this helps.

____________________________

Locating vacuum leaks

WARNING: on vehicles equipped with airbags, disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in an accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.

1. Disconnect the vacuum harness connector located between the a/c heater control and the HVAC housing under the instrument panel.

Fig.2 Vacuum Circuit Test
pic 1

2. Connect the test set vacuum hose probe to each port in the HVAC housing half of the vacuum harness connector, one port at a time, and pause after each connection. The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) Setting shortly after each connection is made. If OK, replace the faulty a/c heater control. If not OK, go to step Step 3.

Fig.3 Vacuum Circuits
pic 2

3. Determine the vacuum line color of the vacuum circuit that is leaking. To determine the vacuum line colors, see the Vacuum Circuits chart.
4. Disconnect and plug the vacuum line from the component (fitting, actuator, valve, switch, or reservoir) on the other end of the leaking circuit. Instrument panel disassembly or REMOVAL may be necessary to gain access to some components. Refer to Instrument Panel System for the procedures.
5. Connect the test set hose or probe to the open end of the leaking circuit. The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) Setting shortly after each connection is made. If OK, replace the faulty disconnected component. If not OK, go to Step 6.
6. To locate a leak in a vacuum line, leave one end of the line plugged and connect the test set hose or probe to the other end of the line. Run your fingers slowly along the line while watching the test set gauge. The vacuum reading will fluctuate when your fingers contact the source of the leak. To repair the vacuum line, cut out the leaking section of the line. Then, insert the loose ends of the line into a suitable length of 3 millimeter (0.125 inch) inside diameter rubber hose.

_______________________

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, June 29th, 2019 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
MCHALE47
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you very much Joe. I will do this in the morning.
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Saturday, June 29th, 2019 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Happy to help. Let me know the results.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, June 29th, 2019 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
MCHALE47
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hey Joe thanks for the help on the dodge truck. I wasn’t able to take the dash completely off yesterday but I was able to test the yellow line and the red line under the dash by taking the panel below the steering wheel off I could see both servos under the ash tray and they were fine I’m going to keep looking.
There is another car my sons 2008 vw gti mk5 we have rebuilt the turbo upgraded the inter cooler had the computer tuned etc etc. Over the last couple years but now we are both stump. He kept getting a misfire code on # 4 cylinder so he bought new coils and it stopped the misfire then it started again just on 4 so he took back the coil got another new one and it worked now he is getting misfires on all randomly. I think there is a ground problem. I saw a wire in the loom that had been bent in half but still together my son didn’t want me to do anything with it now he does. Do you have any ideas or could steer me toward the grounding schematic for the GTI
Thanks Brian
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Welcome back, Brian.

I hate to ask this, but could you copy and paste your new question on a new thread. We are trying to keep all threads specific to one question. It helps others in the future. One of us will be glad to help with the VW problem.

Take care and again, sorry to ask this of you.

Joe
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Monday, July 1st, 2019 AT 8:44 PM

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