Ignition Switch

Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • 1999 MERCURY COUGAR
  • 2.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 186,000 MILES

My car listed above has the V6 2.6L engine. I am having what seems to be either and electrical problem or a bad ignition switch. When ever I turn my key to the on position I have power (dash lights up, head lights are active, radio works). I also notice things like the humming sound that the fuel pump usually makes is no longer there. Whenever I turn the key to start nothing happens. A few of my gauge lights turn off and some stay on but engine does not turn over (brand new Optima battery). But, when I pop start my engine using a screw driver touching the start it turns over, but still does not start. My ignition coil is not receiving spark to any of the plugs. Whenever I use my battery tester to test my alternator and check to make sure its receiving power and it is giving me a negative reading. My shifter does not move out of park. Whenever I press the button to shift I hear a clicking sound from the ignition switch. I have tried everything I know. Need help.

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Friday, February 17th, 2017 AT 6:49 AM

18 Replies

Tiny
2CARPROS RENEE
  • ADMIN
  • 638 POSTS

Hi KEEZY DON HUNCHO,

I am sending you a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

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Friday, February 17th, 2017 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

Thanks for the responses guys. I tried to reset the alarm as described in the link and I am still not getting anything when I turn the Key to crank the engine. I used my reader to scan for codes and it says no link, I always had the impression that a car had to start first before it with throw a code.

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Friday, February 17th, 2017 AT 1:03 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

If it helps I could make a video of me attempting to start it and also give you an overview of my engine and electrical compartments. Showing all my good relays and test I have performed already if that helps.

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Friday, February 17th, 2017 AT 1:04 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
  • 48,151 POSTS

Check ECT resistance it will be similar to cylinder head sensor in picture as temperature goes up on car resistance goes down. Then check start relay under hood if not turning over see if power goes to both places. If no communication check fuses under hood and in car may have a blown fuse. Check all items in pictures marked with arrows. Also, check inertia switch behind left hand kick panel.

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Friday, February 17th, 2017 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

I used my multi-meter to test the starter relay in the power distribution box and it has readings that rose as high as.855. I used and old wire to connect terminals 85 and 37 and it cranks my starter. The fuse is not blown.

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Saturday, February 18th, 2017 AT 2:28 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

I had my positive lead running from the relay terminal inside the power distribution box and connected the negatives terminal to three different things (metal on the car, negative side of the battery, negative side of the terminal inside the power distribution box).
When connect to the battery I have 0.00.
When connected to the metal on car I have.457.
When connect to the negative side of terminal I have.645+ but less than.956-.

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Saturday, February 18th, 2017 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

My Conjunction box has no slot for number five it is not in use in my manual. In my engine compartment (power distribution box) The Fuse number one is my main power supply it was giving my a rising reading when I connected my positive lead to it, and the negative lead of the multi-meter to the battery. My fuse number nine is my engine management and ten is starting, ignition, and headlamps. Those fuses did have resistance, and when I switch to check the current they did have power. I tested the fuel pump relay as well which I believe was the last arrow. Left me a bit confused but I tested the relay as well as the terminal. I used a wire to run together terminals 85 and 37 and I can hear the fuel streaming threw the check valve located above the radiator hose.

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Saturday, February 18th, 2017 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

Today I noticed that the wire that runs from the transmission which interacts with the neutral safety switch moves whenever I tug it lightly. My neutral safety seems to move freely and so does my shifter.

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Saturday, February 18th, 2017 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
  • 48,151 POSTS

I am on vacation now and do not have access to a few things. Re-post your question it may be a bad fuse box due to voltage reading or the ground coming from battery is dirty as well as terminal ends. The wiggling of wires may mean its not making contact as well. Whomever you get make sure that you give them all this info like copy and paste.

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Saturday, February 18th, 2017 AT 4:29 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS RENEE
  • ADMIN
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Hi KEEZY DON HUNCHO,

I have forwarded your question to another expert. He will be getting back to you shortly.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros

Sincerely,

Renee
Admin

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Sunday, February 19th, 2017 AT 10:57 AM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 6,408 POSTS

Hello KEEZY,

I will be taking over this question. Using you voltmeter test the input and outputs of the ignition switch to make sure it is working here is a wiring diagram to help you.

Test the power going in and the power going out once the switch is turning on. I believe the switch is down on the column.

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

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Sunday, February 19th, 2017 AT 11:54 AM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

After Doing these test here are the readings I got
Ignition Relay (4 Pins)
Pin 1 and 3 Are Powered 11.84v

Starter Relay (5 pins)
Pin 3 is power with 11.85v
Pin 1 has 00.1v
Pin 2 has 2.6v

Engine Management (2 pins)
Pin 1 has 5.6
Pin 2 has 00.1

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Monday, February 20th, 2017 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

This is the diagram I used for the starter.

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Monday, February 20th, 2017 AT 3:44 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
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Pin two having 2.6 volts is the problem if the key is in the crank position. It needs to have 12 volts.

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Monday, February 20th, 2017 AT 6:34 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

Okay, any idea how to find where the loss of power is coming from? What are some things I can test or try to find the issue? My ignition relay from conjunction box is good. I hear the switch click when I press the button on the shifter. I also notice that my alarm light never flashes. Even when car is locked. But the clicker still locks my doors and sounds my alarm. But whenever I put the key in the door and turn it to deactivate the alarm it does not shut off.

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Tuesday, February 21st, 2017 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 6,408 POSTS

Check fuse 10 in the fuse panel for voltage, and then pin 4 of the ignitions witch it leads right to the relay.

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Tuesday, February 21st, 2017 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

Fuse 10 has voltage so do pin #5 on ignition switch relay

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Tuesday, February 21st, 2017 AT 10:07 PM
Tiny
KEEZY DON HUNCHO
  • MEMBER

My alarm system does not have power at all could this stop my ignition and electrical from taking the proper course.

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Thursday, February 23rd, 2017 AT 4:34 AM

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