Ignition coil resistance values

Tiny
PETROYADA
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 1,100,000 MILES
How can I test the ignition coil with the multi meter and then compare the value with original parts?
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 8:49 AM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
That's not a test we do because the results are meaningless. In fact, no specs are even listed in our service data for your vehicle. When resistance values are published, those are strictly for training purposes to know what "normal" is. You will find half of the coils that are defective still measure perfectly fine, and half of those that measure out-of-specs still work just fine with no symptoms. That's why this test is a waste of time. We might make a resistance check, but only after we diagnose and solve the problem, and then to verify we really did diagnose the coil as defective.

A typical resistance value for the primary side will be around one to three ohms, but be aware there is going to be a good three to five ohms of resistance just in your meter's leads. What you don't want to find is an open circuit.

Secondary coils will have a very high resistance, probably in the order of 1,000 to 10,000 ohms. Here again, you don't want to find an open circuit, and you don't want find near 0 ohms. 0 ohms is almost impossible because the two ends of the coil of wire would have to be touching, but in fact they're far apart inside the assembly, or the entire coil would have to be melted into one big blob.

You have four individual ignition coils, so you already have multiple resistance values to compare to each other. You didn't say what kind of problem you're trying to solve. If you have a crank / no-start condition, you know all four coils aren't going to fail at the same time, so you need to look somewhere else. If you have a single-cylinder misfire, there should be a diagnostic fault code set to indicate which cylinder is responsible. The typical approach is to switch the ignition coil from that cylinder with one of the other ones, erase the fault code, then drive the vehicle to see if the code sets for the same cylinder or the one you moved the suspect coil to.

If it's help with the ohm meter you need, check out the second half of this article:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

If you still need help, or you have a regular meter you have to set the ranges on yourself, I can help with that too.
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Friday, December 13th, 2019 AT 5:28 PM

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