2007 Hyundai Accent Fuel Pump/regulator

Tiny
BSKEEF
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
I have had a problem for some time now with this car, its going to sound strange but this is exactly what happens. The check engine lite comes on some times and now is on all the time I had it checked several times got two different responses, one vapor canistor, two misfire clyd 4, however everytime I stop to get gas I cannot get my car started without holding the pedal to the floor and as it grinds its slowly starts to start up, like its catching up with itself and I have to slowly let up the pedal to let it return to reg idle speed, however it sometimes chokes and sputters for a min or so then levels out and runs great again until I get gas again and it happens every time I get gas,
So I have pulled the fuel pump because I could not get the car started I had grinded and grinded it with the pedal to the floor and not, with it making no attempt to start, acting like it wasn't getting gas, so back to the fuel pump, I now noticed there are actually 3 things of interest in this assembly, the pump, regulator, and filter I can get the the whole assembly delivered for about $180.00 but, I would like to know a couple things before I purchase this.
1. I have tested the pump out of the car it runs and has somewhat good pressure, however I dont know what the pressure is supposed to be so. Thats one thing I need
2. I have ordered a Doorman evap valve just because this is what came up months ago when one person tested the car, could this valve be the complete reason for all my problems and I need maybe not order the complete fuel pump assembly? Or do you think I have two different problems going on here?
3. And last could the fuel pump be pumping ok and the Fuel regulator be the culprit and I need only replace that item?
I just hate to replace the complete fuel pump assembly unit when it may only be a 30.00 to 40.00 part, however I dont really want to put it all back together and end up with the same problem again,
I apologize for the length of this question but I tried to give you the most information I could about my problem/problems
Thanks for any help!
Bill
Oh and I have already replaced the gas cap also!
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 2:56 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Bill,

Thank you for the donations.

A good explanation of the symptoms would help to make us understand the problem and provide you with faster rectification.

For Hyundais, this is quite a common problem and since the EVAP system has tirggered a trouble code, get it resolved first.

Vehicle runs well after the initial filling up of gas, so that rules out the fuel pump or its components as the cause. It they are faulty, you would be having difficult starting all the time, not after fill-ups only.

Replace the EVAP valve and retest before committing to others. If problem is not resolved, let me know the EXACT troble codes so I can get the diagnostic files to assist.

The specified fuel pressure is 49.8 psi.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2010 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
BSKEEF
  • MEMBER
Ok, sorry about the time work was calling me so.

I dont have a pressure tester however I diconnected the fuel supply line to the fuel rail hooked up a hose to it and turned on the key to the car, the flow of gas is not all that much about like a hose on at 1/4 draw, however this is not why I wanted to test the fuel pump, I have since replaced the purge valve (Dorman # 911-803) which was connected to the Vapor Canister, before I replaced this valve, (which I believe could have been the problem when fillilng up and the car shutting off and being hard to start) I had another problem and dont know where to exactly look because I dont know what if ANY sensors, or valves would control the fuel pump? But. There has always been a 2-3 second period when the Fuel Pump would Prime if I can use that word when you first turn the key to the ON position, you could actually hear it like a hummm then it would go off, like it was primed up I dont know if that is normal or not however It will NOT do that anymore, I can't get it to run unless it you actually turn the key to Crank the car engine you can actually hear the pump come on while cranking it, when you stop cranking the engine the pump shuts off is this normal and if not where would you suggest I should start from? I can't get it to pump anything or come on to prime the system unless you turn the key to crank the engine.
The Car battery had been replaced, the codes have been reset because of it I guess, and not being able to start the car to get it to run I guess it cant enter any new ones,
It just sounds like its not getting any gas to turn over Ive got a brand new Fuel pump assembly which had a new regulator, leveler, and filter all together installed and that new Purge Valve, however it still wont start. I think I need a Match! Lol
Thanks for helping!
Bill
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Friday, August 6th, 2010 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The fuel pump would prime for 2 seconds when ignition switch is turned to ON. That is normal and it is controlled by the PCM via the fuel pump relay.

If the pump only runs while cranking the engine and not at initial ignition ON, the problem could be a faulty PCM.

You mentioned disconnecting the fuel line and testing the fuel flow. Does the fule gushes out when the ignition switch is turned ON, indicating the fuel pump is working?

Perform this simple test to gauge the fuel pressure. Turn ignitnon switch to ON, wait 2 seconed and turn OFF. Repeat cycle 3 times.

Release the bolt holding the fuel pressure line at fuel rail slowly and see if fuel gushes out as if the pressure is high.

Try some starting fluid into the throttle body and if the engine fires up, it definitely is a fault with the fuel system.

The other cause would be the injectors. Disconnect the fuel injector harness and test the terminals for battery voltage with ignition switch turned ON. There must be one terminal that is hot. If yes, connect a noid light and crank engine. If the noid pulses, the circuit is good. If no pulse, the PCM couls be faulty.
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Saturday, August 7th, 2010 AT 6:13 AM
Tiny
BSKEEF
  • MEMBER
First, Thank You for your quick response I really appreciate it!
Second I have already diconnected the fuel line at the fuel Rail and when I turn the key to the on position and wait and wait nothing happens at all, no gas comes out, it only comes out when I turn the key further to the canking position then the 1/4 flow starts and continues until I release the key like you would while starting, however when it returns back to the on position the pump shuts off,
Just a reminder, the Pump Assembly which contains several different items is new, and the purge valve is new. You mentioned the PCM what does that stand for and where is it located?
Thanks again for your help,
Bill
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Saturday, August 7th, 2010 AT 7:40 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
PCM = Power Control Module, the engine computer.

Symptoms indicates the PCM is not grounding the circuit at ignition ON and that couls be due to a fault with the PCM or its power supply.

Ensure the security system is not activated ( if equipped). The immobilizer would prevent the engine from being started.

Check the main relay, try swapping it out.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_FuseBox07Accent_1.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_EngineComp07Accent_1.jpg

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Saturday, August 7th, 2010 AT 7:57 AM
Tiny
BSKEEF
  • MEMBER
Ok,
I have installed a new purge valve on the vapor canister, its got a new fuel pump assembly installed, I have checked the fuel pump relay, and the main relay, as far as I can tell they both are ok.

Is there anything that im overlooking that would cause the fuel pump not to prime to create the required pressure needed so the car would fire?

Is there any type of switch on these Accents that would interrupt the fuel pump from priming? As I stated before the pump will pump gas but only while your cranking the engine over, once you leave the key go and it returns to the ON position the pump shuts off! So it never really gets the pressure up to whats required so the engine will fire up.

I didn't know if there was a fuel cut off switch on this car I have looked around for one but dont see anything of the sort.

WhenI put a test light on the plug that goes to the fuel pump it only lights up HOT when you turn the key onto the cranking position, nothing lights up when you turn the key to the ON position, does or could anything around the vapor canister interrupt power to the pump? Where does the power come from when the key is on the ON position to prime the pump since there are wires that run back to the canister from the pump, im not sure but I dont believe I could have put the plug on backwards on the purge valve, I thought it would only go on one way but I guess I could get under there and check anyways. Is there another valve, relay, or fuse somewhere I should be looking for? This thing has me about nuts, Haven't been able to start this engine now for a couple weeks and its driving me crazy on where to look next, I just cant believe the PCM would just up and go bad when only a few weeks ago I had it reprogramed at the dealer costing me just over $100.00 and it ran good for weeks ater that until just recently, when we had the problem with it not starting after getting gas, hope somebody has another idea where I can turn or what I can try next! I did have the battery out for 2-3 days to charge it then re-installed that wouldn't have messed anything up?

Thank you all for your help !
Bill
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Saturday, August 14th, 2010 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The fuel pump relay is energised by the Blue/Orange wire being grounded by the PCM and would go off once the ignition is released as no cranking signals are received by the PCM.

The priming of the fuel pump would only occur when the ignition is turned from OFF to ON. You need to turn the ignition OFF and back ON for the pump to prime. If it is not occurring, the PCM could be faulty.

Even if the fuel pump does not prime during initial ignition on, you mentioned the fuel pump is running during cranking, that should bring up the fuel pressure to start, though it might take a longer time.

When engine could not be started and prolonged cranking occurs, the compression might drop as the amount of gas getting to the cylinders could flooding and reducing the compression as time goes on. Leaving the engine idle ( without starting) for extended periods under above conditiond would aggravate the difficulty starting.

Get the compression checked and if necessarily. Without the spark plugs and injectors or fuel pump running, squirt some engine oil into each cylinders via the plug holes and crank the engine for a few seconds to get the compresion up.

Reinstall everything and retry.

There is no reset switchs for the fuel pump circuit.

Since you had the battery out, ensure the security system is not causing the problem.
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Saturday, August 14th, 2010 AT 11:06 PM

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