Engine Performance problem
2004 Honda Element 4 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 92000 miles
When my car is cold or has not run for a few hours, it will stall when starting up. I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal until the temperature gauge on the dash reads it has fully warmed up which will take about 4-5 mins. If I let my foot go the engine will stall and will not start right away. The starter works good because I can hear it trying to crank the motor over. After the engine is warmed up when I put the engine in gear it will sometimes stall again. Once I get moving it will sometimes stall when I slow down or come to a stop. This will go on for about 10-15 mins if I cannot drive on a road without the need to stop, for example the highway. The engine light has come on and will eventually shut off. The code that was pulled was P0172.
I have checked the vacuum hoses numerous times to make sure they are all hooked up with no leaks. I also checked by using carb cleaner to notice any rpm changes. I have replaced the air filter and spark plugs, the IAC Valve and TPS sensor with no changes. I have cleaned out the throttle body as well and replaced the gasket.
I dont want to take the car to the dealership being it is out of waranty and past dealings with the closest dealer for me has not been very good in the past.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
OK so you need to check the fuel pressure. Have you replaced the fuel filter? The code P0172 is a fuel to rich code. It could also be the fuel pressure regulator giving to much fuel. Get back to me with what you know and we will go from there.
March, 2, 2009 AT 7:58 PM
Test the fuel pressure and coolant temperature sensor
P0172 rich condition
Possible causes include a bad O2 sensor, excessive fuel pressure (bad fuel pressure regulator or plugged return line), leaky fuel injectors, dirty air filter or restricted air inlet, or a defective coolant sensor that prevents the engine management system from going into closed loop mode.
March, 2, 2009 AT 8:06 PM
Thanks for replying so quickly. Im under the impression the fuel filter is located in the fuel tank but I will get the fuel pressure checked. Also I had been wondering if it could be something with the coolant sensor too. I will get back to you when I know more.
March, 3, 2009 AT 10:45 AM
Yes it could and if you have a digital multi meter then I can walk you through the test and we determine that. There is no fuel filter on you car so if anything goes wrong there it is a fuel pump replacement. Let me know what you find.
March, 5, 2009 AT 8:39 PM
Sorry, I havnt been able real busy the last couple of days. I do have a digital volt meter, should I have something else? Also I would like to double check the tps sensor but I dont remember the voltage, would you happen to know what it is supposed to be set at? Thanks alot for all the help.
March, 6, 2009 AT 10:38 AM
Ok we can do that for the temp sensor you need to be able to check ohm's. So unplug the sensor and check the ohms across the term's on the sensor (not the plug or harness) and if you do the test when it cold then all I need is the outside air temp and ohm's reading and I will look to see if it is in spec.
As for the tps I don't think you need to as we would also have a P0122 and or P0123 code. If you still want to check it then let me know and I will find the specs and procedure for you.
March, 6, 2009 AT 3:34 PM
Ok, if I did this correctly, I tested the temp coolant sensor, not the harness or the plug. I disconnected it and came up with a reading of 1.53. The engine was cold and outside air temp is just above 40 degrees F. There are a few different settings for ohms on my meter, this was the readout from the only setting I could get to read.
Since I was there I tested the V on the TPS sensor and read.53.
Again thanks alot for taking the time to try to help me.
March, 7, 2009 AT 9:25 AM
Well with the what I have found the sensor is out of range. I don't know if this will totally fix your problem but it is bad none the less.
May, 27, 2009 AT 6:52 PM
I just wanted to update this, in case there is anyone searching and has the same or similar problem. I had the valves checked and they were all out of spec. All in intake valves were loose and all the exhaust valves were tight. The mechanic adjusted them to within spec and immediately the stalling problems went away and have yet to return. This has been fixed now for well over a month.
June, 1, 2009 AT 2:11 PM
I am curious how much your valve adjustment cost when you had it done?