2001 Honda Civic 1753 code

Tiny
STEELMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 400,000 MILES
Just had a new engine installed and now the "d" for drive flashes and it revs up and down there is no difference in d and d3 if you manually shift it and the trans does not shift properly any help would be appreciated the only code it has is 1753
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 9:03 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
P1753: Problem in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit

May need to test/replace solenoids. Back probed the solenoid connector at yellow wire and see if it's getting power when lock up is supposed to come on.

If so, most likely a faulty torque converter. The other possibility is a missing or damaged o-ring from the snout of the torque converter, this usually throws a different code though.

Hope this helps.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
STEELMAN
  • MEMBER
Thanks much for the info my guess is since the car worked great except for the original overheating problem the plug wire or terminal that goes to that solenoid was damaged during the engine install now the question is how do you check for voltage at lockup while driving down the road is there a way to tell it to lockup without driving
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Sunday, January 11th, 2009 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
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With the soleneoid plugged in the car revs up and bogs down while sitting in park with it unplugged it runs good but idk if I can try driving it like that but I think that spells bad solenoid
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Sunday, January 11th, 2009 AT 4:06 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
Sounds definitely like faulty solenoid to me as well. Doesn't sound like you need removal instructions as you seem to know queit a bit about this, but if you do need some guidance just let me know.

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Sunday, January 11th, 2009 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
STEELMAN
  • MEMBER
Decided to check wiring and the solenoid before I buy a new one looks like two wires running to it is that 12v +and- and if so im guessing I can just hook a 12v bulb to it go for a drive and see if it lights up?
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Monday, January 12th, 2009 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
Generally, if you unplug the TCC solenoid at the transmission and the symptoms go away, you have found the problem. But sometimes this can be misleading because you don't know for sure if it's a bad solenoid, dirt in the valve body or a bad signal from the ECM. Follow test methods below for proper testing of the solenoid.

TEST #1
Check For 12 Volts To Terminal A At Transmission

Raise the vehicle on the lift so the driving wheels are off the ground.
Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground. Unplug the wires at the case and place the tip of your test light on the terminal marked A.
Do not depress the brake pedal.
Computer controlled vehicles: turn on the ignition and the tester should light.
All other vehicles: start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
Raise RPM to 1500 and the tester should light. If tester lights continue with Regular Method.
If the tester does not light go to Test # 2.

TEST #2
Check For 12 Volts To Terminal A At The ALDL

Note: ALDL quick methods, when given, are a way to perform many of the tests at the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL). This will allow you to do most of the electrical checks from the driver's seat and save much valuable diagnostic time.
Connect one end of a test light to terminal A at the ALDL.
Connect the other end to terminal F at the ALDL.
Turn on the ignition and the tester should light. Note: some transmissions, like the 125C must shift to 3rd before the tester will light.
If the tester lights, you have 12 volts to terminal A at the transmission. Go to Test # 6.
If the tester does not light, then check for 12 volts by the regular method.

I believe by performing one of these tests, you will find your TCC solenoid is faulty. However, if these tests come out OK then let me know and I will post further tests.

Hope this helps.
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Monday, January 12th, 2009 AT 1:20 PM

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