Engine loss of power?

Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MEMBER
Engine?
Miles?
Manual / AT?

Let us Know on the info.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
Car is a 1997 Honda Civic EX, 1.6L 4 cyl, 5 spd, ac, power, 187k mi.

Thanks
Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MEMBER
Hello !

Start checking the TPS (check the voltage with the wide open throtle)
Then the EGR for carbon build-up (clean it)

And the Maf sensor.

The Mass Air Flow sensor is crucial to the fuel systems operation. This is the sensor that the engine computer uses to measure how much air is entering the engine so that it may properly deliver the proper amount of fuel. A dirty MAF sensor hot wire may cause several problems to include: difficult start, poor acceleration, pinging, rough idling, to name a few. This whole procedure should take you less than ten minutes.

Its the check engine light on?

Check them and get back with the results.

I l get some info on the how to and I ll post it later if you don t know how to test the sensors.

BTW I saw that you donate!
Thanks a lot! We appreciate that!

Good Luck!
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
Yes, thank you for the info I was thinking of the mass airflow sensor too! And no check engine light.

Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MEMBER
Hey Kevin!
In this case your car uses a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)

a MAP sensor simply compares the pressure difference between 2 chambers. One chamber is sealed and used as the reference pressure (usually a vacuum) and the other chamber is connected to the intake manifold (usually by a vacuum hose). When the pressure in the intake manifold changes, this will change the voltage signal going back to the ecu from the MAP. A pressure drop will cause a voltage drop. This voltage is only interpreted as manifold pressure. The ecu will also need to use the signals from the rpm sensor and air temp sensor to calculate air mass, pressure alone is not enough. Plus any vacuum leaks on the hose, or indeed any other vacuum leaks on the manifold, will affect this sensor's signal.

After locating the MAP sensor, disconnect its wiring harness.

To test the MAP sensor, run jumper wires between its terminals and wiring harness per the service manual's instructions. Turn the ignition to the ON position and take a voltage reading. Spec for this MAP is about 4.5-5.0 volts.

With the engine running and warmed up, take another voltage reading. It should differ from the non-running number and fluctuate when the engine is revved. If not, verify that the vacuum line isn't damaged or blocked.

If the vacuum line checks out, the sensor is likely faulty. Replace the bad MAP with a new one by connecting the vacuum hose and wiring harness, then securing the sensor to its factory location.

I would check for vacuum leaks and check the sensor good.
________
Let me know how are you doing!

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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JADONI
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • AUTOMATIC
I Have a 1997 Honda Civic I change the engine head, Plug and oil but my problem for a long while is the car struggles I have to sink the gas pedal for it to move off but it struggles to accelerate for a while then it shoot off any help please
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
I'll take a look at all that, thanks for all the great info it's really helping me understand fuel injection.

Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
Hello again, when I take the voltage reading I am getting nothing. To make sure I'm doing it right do I take the reading from the two terminals of the female plug? And is it left unplugged while taking the reading? This is what I am doing. And to also be sure the MAP sensor is located on the fuel injector rail yes?

Thanks
Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
Forgot to mention that the car runs perfect when cold then bogs down a few minutes after running.

Thanks again,
Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MEMBER
Hello Kevin!
How are you been?
Well lets continue, i think that its working good when cold because of the cold start valve (extra fuel when cold)
here a picture of the MAP sensor:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/576_civic_map_sensor_1.jpg



the complete picture:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/576_civic_97_1.jpg



I ll be back with the spec.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GUNNY26
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
I have a honda smx 1997 it keeps on misfiring when im driving speed drops then takes time to pick up even if I press fully on the gas like it loses power then when I go 100km the car gives a eggy smell
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MEMBER
Hey Kevin..
You should run "jump" wires to the MAP sensor to be abble to get readings here is the spec:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/576_civic_971_1.jpg



here is the connector:


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/576_civic_9712_1.jpg

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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The eggy smell indicates a possible fault with the catalytic converter.

As to the misfiring, have you checked the spark plugs and related components, fuel pressure etc?

Sounds like the timing is off. Possible problems: Distributor is off, wires are on wrong, or timing belt jumped some teeth.
Check to see if timing is OK or not. Also check for a plugged or restricted catalytic converter (exhaust).
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
That helps so much, thank you. I really appreciate this, I will definitely be recommending 2 car pros to everyone!

Thanks again,
Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MEMBER
Hey Kevin!

Thank you for choose 2Carpros.

It was a pleasure working for you.

We wish you the best!
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
Could timing effect the bogging down I am experiencing? I did replace the head on this thing and was thinking I might have the belt off a tooth. I tried the MAP and TPS, nothing.

Thanks
Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MEMBER
Hello Kevin!

Yes. Could be the case. Remove the timing belt cover (the top cover) without remove something else and check the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket.

Let us know and good Luck!
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVROLL
  • MEMBER
It was the timing, runs like a top. Thanks for your help.

Kevin
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIFTHMARK
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
My car is a manual 97 Honda Civic DX with 201000 miles and a 1.6L engine. For the last year or so, I have been experiencing a problem with the engine surging or losing power when driving in the city. At intermittent intervals with the accelerator held constant, the engine begins to bog down and surge, decreasing power and speed until the engine finally "catches" again, violently lurching the car forward. This problem is more common shortly after startup and seems to occur more commonly in 3rd or 4th gear between 25-45 MPH. The vehicle is also getting 20-30% worse gas mileage concurrently with the problem. If I were asked to picture the overall scenario, it seems as though the gas is building up in the engine, flooding it and bogging down the acceleration until the fuel is finally ignited and the car lurches forward.

In the past month, I have installed a new distributor cap with wires, new spark plugs, and had the timing belt changed. These new parts have not helped the problem concerned. The fuel filter was also replaced approximately 30K miles ago when the problem was first noticed, but this also did not eliminate the issue.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • EXPERT
I would say that the fuel delivery system is doing its job, but the spark or electrical side is not performing efficiently. I would check the EGR valve and PCV. Then I would look at the plugs. I know you replaced them recently but I suspect they may be fowling. I mention this because the plugs may point to a specific cylinder that is having problems, a bad plug or wire, bad injector, etc.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)

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