1990 Honda Civic 90' Honda Civic WONT START, CHECKED ALL.

Tiny
JKNIPP
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 120,000 MILES
1990 HONDA CIVIC 1.5L 4CYL, FI D15B2 ENGINE - ATTEMPTED JUMP START, HAD CABLES REVERSED, AFTERWARD WOULD NOT START. BATTERY AND MAIN 60AMP FUSE BLOWN, REPLACED BOTH AND CAR STARTED AND RAN FINE. DROVE ABOUT 10 MILES THEN PARKED OVERNITE. WOULD NOT START I THE MORNING, JUST TURNS OVER BUT WILL NOT FIRE. MADE SURE BATTERY WAS CHARGED, CHECKED ALL FUSES GOOD, CHECKED MAIN RELAY GOOD, FUEL PUMP OPERATING, FUEL FILTER REPLACED, HAVE FUEL TO THROTTLE BODY, CHECKED AND CLEANED DISTRIBUTOR CAP, COIL AND ROTOR, CHECKED FOR SPARK ON EACH CYLINDER YES (ALTHOUGH SPARK SEEMED WEAK ORANGE YELLOW IN COLOR WITH SLIGHT HINT OF BLUE). CHECKED CODES ON ECU GOT CODE #1 EXHAUST OXYGEN SENSOR, CODE #10 INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR - KNEW BOTH THESE WERE BAD BUT ENGINE RAN FINE WITH THESE CODES BEFORE THIS PROBLEM, ATTEMPTED STARTER FLUID IN THROTTLE BODY ENGINE STILL WOULD NOT FIRE. WHAT AM I MISSING? WHAT OTHER ITEMS WOULD CAUSE THE ENGINE NOT TO START?
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Friday, December 28th, 2007 AT 11:06 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Does it have good compression? If starting fluid didnt make it run, then either the spark is too weak or it doesnt have compression. Watch the ignition rotor while someone cranks it to be sure the timing belt isnt broken
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
JKNIPP
  • MEMBER
Jack, Knew the timing belt was fine because both the engine cranked and the distributor (connected to the cam) rotated, didnt do compression check as engine was running perfectly before it decided not to start, checked the Fuel flow/pressure and injectors, all good, because of weak spark (orange/red rather than blue) checked ignition coil resistance both primary and secondary. Good reading between terminal + and - (A & B) intermittent good reading between + (A) and HV Tower. Turns out, the graphite connector in Tower terminal was severely worn and was not consistently making good contact. Replace ignition coil and while I was at it put on new distributor cap and rotor. Started up and runs like new! Thanks for your help!

JK
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Saturday, December 29th, 2007 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Nice. Glad to hear it
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Sunday, December 30th, 2007 AT 8:44 AM
Tiny
JKNIPP
  • MEMBER
Thanks to your help, I was able to get my Honda running. I had a code 1 (Oxygen Sensor) and a code 10 (Intake Air Temp Sensor) from the ECU. I replaced the Intak Air Temp Sensor and tried to clear the ECU codes by removing the Hazard Fuse and ECU fuse (with the key off) for 10+ seconds. When I reinsert the key and turn to the on position (without starting the car) I still get a code 1 and a code 10. Even if I start the car and then turn off and reinsert key and turn to the on position I still get the same codes.

What am I doing wrong in resetting the ECU codes? What is the proper procedure?

Jk
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Sunday, December 30th, 2007 AT 1:35 PM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Need to remove th e "backup" fuse to clear the PCM
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Monday, December 31st, 2007 AT 8:40 AM
Tiny
JKNIPP
  • MEMBER
I have tried removing the Hazard, the ECU and the Backup fuses for 10+ seconds each and I cant seem to get the ECU on 1990 Honda Civic 1.5L to reset. With the key off, I removed the Fuse (one of the above) for 10+ seconds, then replaced, placed the key in the On position and watched the code light, still get code 1 and several code 10's. I have replaced the Intake air Temp sensor with a new one.

Is there something I am missing in the process of resetting the ECU? Is there any other way to reset the ECU?

Thanks

JK
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2008 AT 8:27 AM
Tiny
JACK42
  • MEMBER
Go here and look up the wiring to see what those 2 sensors share..could be a bad ground

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/mitchell1eautorepair-car-repair-manuals
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Wednesday, January 2nd, 2008 AT 12:14 PM

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