Transmission slipping?

If the torque converter goes bad it will stopp moving and can catastrphically fail which would break more parts and make a rebuild cost more. So, if the scan does not turn up any trouble codes you probably need a rebuild. Take it to a transmission shop ASAP.
There are clutch packs in automatic transmissions that can go bad and slip.
The exhaust probably has nothing to do with your problem.

You're very welcome. Come back anytime you need anything. We have a great team of techs waiting to help.

Take care,
Dr. C

Hi Ralph,

Thank you for the donation.

This is a tricky situation.

1. The sensors are external so replacement can be done without removal of the trans assy from the vehicle. $300 is rather steep to do the job.

2. If the new transmission has a fault, even though it might have been rebuilt, you would have to pay the mechanic to remove the trans again.

3. Even if the trans had come with the sensors, there is no guarantee that the sensora are good.

4. If the sensors from the original transmission are faulty, moving them over to the new trans wuold result in the same problem.

5. If the sensors are good, then you would not have any problem moving them over.

Are all the sensors missing or only specific ones?

Is it the sensors or solenoids that are missing?

What is/are the exact trouble code retrieved for the D4 light blinking?

Though the original transmission is slipping, the cause might not be internal. A faulty sensor or solenoid can cause the problem.

If you have not retrieved the trouble codes, get a free scann done at Autozone to retrieve the trouble codes so we can understand the problem better.

If I am in the situation, I would get the trouble codes to understand what is causing the D4 light to blink before proceeding further.

The fluid and filter should be changed every 30,000 miles. However, in this case it may be worth it to see what happens.
But, before you do that get is scanned for trouble codes.

IGNORE THIS MESSAGE. Clear Pending Status. IGNORE THIS MESSAGE

There are 2 components that you can test manually with a multi-meter.
The first is the Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve, "A" and "B". It is located on the 2.3L, it is located on the right side of the transaxle right by to tab used to hook an engine hoist to remove the engine/tranny assembly. On the 3.0L, it is on the top rear or transaxle. The A and B solenoids are on top of each other. They have 2 pin connectors with "A" having a red wire in connection, "1" and a white wire in connection, "2". The B connector has an orange wire in the, "1" connection and green in the, "2" connection.

To test solenoid;
1. Disconnect harness
2. Measure resistance before terminals. It should be 5 Ohms, if it is not solenoid needs replacement.
3. To check solenoid movement, apply 12V to terminal, "1" and ground, "2". Clicking noise indicates solenoid works.
4. Remove solenoid to check fluid passage for debris/clogging. If debris is removed, repeat step 3. To ensure solenoid still moves properly.

The second component is the Lock-up solenoids. They are located on the right front of engine compartment of 2.3L and the Top front of the 3.0L The wires are either Blue/yellow or yellow from the connector in either terminal.

1. Disconnect harness and measure resistance between terminal, "1' and ground. It should be 12-25 Ohms. Replace solenoid is of of specified range.
2. Ensure solenoid movement by grounding body of solenoid to ground and 12V to terminal, "1" and then terminal, "2". Both should make a clicking noise if solenoid is operating.

Check these solenoids and scan trouble codes then let me know results.

Hi there,

first thing to do is check fluid condition and level, if low top up and check for any leaks, otherwise get it inspected for operation and error codes by a trans specialist.

Mark (mhpautos)

First, buy a multi meter as you can get a cheap one for $10 and a good one for $40. It is worth the $40 as it will have test funstions the cheaper one won't.
To test before the terminal means to test the connector end wires. Meaning, don't test the terminal connections on the part you are testing. This test is to see if th epart is getting power, so you want to see if the connector is getting power. If it is not, the problem is before the connector.
To apply 12V to part to test, use the car battery as the powersupply. I usually use it as the ground as well. Get something that will hold the wires to the battery or loosn the post connectors and slip wires in between the battery poast and wire. Before you do this you have to strip the insulation off of the wire to expose the copper strands. Get a wire that is about the same size or larger than the wires coming from the connector and cut them long enough to reach the part tro be tested easilty. Strip some insulation off the other end of the wires and twist them around so they make a point contact and aren't frayed out all over and may touch a contact or ground that you don't want it to. Touch the 12V or, "Hot" wires to the positive connector side of the part you are testing. You can keep track of this by looking at test instructions and use the, "terminal 1 or terminal 2" designations to know which one is positive and which one is negative. The wire color tells you whcih terminal is which and the connector may have, "1" and "2" on it.
It is not hard but be very carful as you can end up touching test leads to meatl and get a good shock and then have to replace your main fusible link. It is really best tro dis-connect to battery from the positive and neagative cable and get large aligator clips or clamps, you can find them at Radio Shack or auto parts store, as it is best to prevent that kind of stuff from happening and if you have anyuthing powered straight from battery it could damge it. Also get smaller alligator clips for terminals in part, these are not as necassary as you are not working in a cramped place and terminals are close together, or the twisted ends will work just fine. You just want to make sure you don't accidnetly ytouch any metal or touch them to each other.
Go through the steps carefully and get prepared as far as getting the right wires, slips and test meters go. Take your time doing the procedure and double check everything before you actually test it. Kind of like, " measure twice cut once". You will have eliminted 2 of some of the most likley causes for your problem. That is how diagnostics goes by porocess of elimination.
Take care.

It is a good idea to make one. I don't know what amperage fuse to suggest. See if your hayne's manual suggests an amperage. More than likely the amperage will vary with the component tested.

To make a jumper wire with a fuse. Go to a local auto parts store. In the electrical section and look for an in-line fuse. There are 3 types, the large double bladed, the small double bladed and the fuse that looks like a cylindrical glass tube.
Check your fuse box to see what type of fuses your car uses so you can get the same type for your test wire.

To make the wire, get the length of wire you need. Consider the fact that you may use it again to test something farther away from the battery. The gauge of the wire is important too as if you want to test something on a 40 Amp circuit, you will need a 10 gauge wire to be safe. Also consider what you are testing as selecting the size of the fuse. Try to find the fuse that is protecting the circuit that the part you are testing is on.

You might want to mount the fuse near the battery as mounting it near the test end may become cumbersome. The in-line fuse will simply mount in-line with the positive test wire. You can strip some extra insulation off the wires if you want. It is probably best to sauder the ends of the in-line fuse holder to the ends of the test wire where you are splicing it into the wire. Make sure you protect it with either heat shrink wrap or electrical tape.

Let me know if you need anything else.