2000 Honda Accord RPM jerking

Tiny
MSHADYM
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD

Transmission problem
2000 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 84000 miles

I just got a used honda Accord and the rpm just drops when take my foot of the gas and goes down close to 1, no effect on the cars drive. Is that normal or is this a trans prob? How would I know if there are any trans problems? My mechanic says that the trans has been changed because its painted. I have read that accords have Transmission problems. Is the trans replacement something I should worry about?

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Wednesday, October 15th, 2008 AT 3:37 PM

25 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi mshadym,

The idling rpm should be 750. While driving, the rpm would drop with foot off the accelerator if speed of vehicle is not very high. At higher vehicle speed it would not drop that much. Not a problem you are facing.

When transmission gives problem, gear shifting would be affected. It might shift harshly, late while up or down shifting. The D4 light might flash. Vehicle might not move at times and slipping which can be noted by excessively high rpm while driving.

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Monday, October 20th, 2008 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
YINKEBO
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KHLow2008,

I just read your reply to mshadym's question and discover that the condition you highlighted about transmission matches what am presently going through with my 2002 honda.

There was a day that I noticed the D4 flashing and some seconds later it wouldn't move. I stopped the car checked the transmission oil which was OK, I then went back started the car and everything was OK again.

What do you think could be the problem? Does it mean that I may likely loose my transmission.

Another one is the transition between the 1st and the 2nd gear is always too harsh.

Please, your response

Yinkebo

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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 2:59 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi yinkebo,

When the D4 light blinks while driving, an error has been detected by the PCM so you need a diagnostic scan to find out what is causing it.

Get the exact code and let me know so that appropriate action/suggestions can be made.

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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 5:09 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
  • MEMBER

Hi KHLow2008,

When I had the experience, what I did was just to stop the car and check what was wrong and by the time I returned to the car to start, it was gone.

I then took the car to my auto mechanic, we changed the oil despite, serviced 3 sets of solenoid units yet the transmission remains harsh.

What do you suggest I do next?

Yinkebo

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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 6:29 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
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Hi KHLow2008,

another recent one this;
My diag. Tool showed code P0420-catalyst Efficiency below threshold (Bank 1).

Please, what does it mean? How can I locate the position of the catalyst.

What I did here is tightening/tensioning my power steering belt which was making noise and I erased the check engine, still waiting if it would come up again.

Yinkebo

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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 6:36 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi Yinkebo,

DTC P0420: CATALYST SYSTEM EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD
NOTE: If some of the DTCs listed below are stored at the same time as DTC P0420, troubleshoot those DTCs first, then recheck for DTC P0420.

P0137, P0138: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2)
P0141: Secondary HO2S (Sensor 2) Heater

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 RPM with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.
3. Except F23A4 SULEV engine: Test-drive at 40-55 mph (64-88 km/h) for approx. 2 minutes. Then decelerate for at least 3 seconds with the throttle completely closed. Then reduce the vehicle speed to 35 mph (56 km/h), and try to hold it until the scan tool indicates FAIL or PASS as the TWC test result. F23A4 SULEV engine: Test-drive at 50-55 mph (80-88 km/h) for approx. 2 minutes. Then decelerate for at least 4 seconds with the throttle completely closed. Then accelerate to 55 mph (88 km/h), and try to hold it until the scan tool indicates FAIL or PASS as the TWC test result. Is the test result FAIL? YES -Check the three way catalytic converter (TWC). If necessary, replace the TWC. NO -Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time.

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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 10:07 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
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Hi KHLow2008,

Thank you for all the communication.

Which is the best way to reset the ECM/PCM.
Is it by removing the battery head?
Is there a better way to do it.

Thank you

Yinkebo

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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 12:49 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi yinkebo,

The best and easiest way is to use a scanner to erase the codes.

Next is to remove the 7.5 A BACKUP or CLOCK/RADIO fuse underhood fuse box for more than 10 seconds.

I would recommend disconnectiing the battery terminals only as a last resort.

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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 6:23 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
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Hi KHLow2008,

Thank you for your prompt response.

Please, what does this catalyst mean?
What does it do on the car?

Thank you.

Yinkebo

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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 7:29 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi yinkebo,

Catalytic converter is for emission control. It works by heating itself up to burn off any unburnt gas/fuel when the exhaust gas is passing through it.

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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 8:31 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
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Hi KHLow2008,
I have tried out the 1st two steps in your last reply because my car has ULEV emission control system but after a few hours drive the light came up again.

Please, what should I do now or what should I change? If I have to change, how can I locate the component?

Thank you

yinkebo

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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 12:53 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi yinkebo,

Get a scan done and give me the exact error code. I need it to confirm what to advise.

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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 7:06 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
  • MEMBER

Hi KHLow2008,

The exact DTC is P0420: CATALYST EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD (BANK 1).
That is the only code that has been on again and again even after trying out your instructions. You know it will be good if we can clear it so that if another code comes one can easily know.

Pls answer my previous questions along with this reply.

Thank you

Yinkebo

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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 8:06 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi yinkebo,

Resetting and the problem comes back means the catalytic converter is bad and needs to be replaced.

It is the exhaust part just after the engine.

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Wednesday, November 12th, 2008 AT 8:42 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
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Hi KHLow2008,

i shall do just that.

Thank you

yinkebo

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Thursday, November 27th, 2008 AT 11:15 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
  • MEMBER

Hi KHLow2008,

I have a van, NISSAN QUEST with transmission problem.

When it comes to a halt and one wants to move immediately the GEAR refuses to engage until after some seconds and this makes it to jump forward.
Checked the oil; colour ok, level ok, yet I changed it but no improvement.

What do you think I should do next.

Thank you.

Yinkebo

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Thursday, November 27th, 2008 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi yinkebo,

What is your year model, trans and engine type of the vehicle?
If you have posted the question in the Nissan category, let me know and I will check it out.

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Thursday, November 27th, 2008 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
YINKEBO
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Hi KHLow2008,

For Nissan Quest, the year is 1994, 4cylinder with 125,526Miles.

I shall be waiting for your take on this. Thank you.

Yinkebo

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Friday, November 28th, 2008 AT 12:07 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi yinkebo,

Check the following,
Engine idle RPM or throttle sensor misadjusted, incorrect line pressure, fluid temperature or engine RPM signal, damaged N-D accumulator or forward clutch.

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Friday, November 28th, 2008 AT 8:32 AM
Tiny
YINKEBO
  • MEMBER

Hi KHLow2008,

Thank you for your prompt response, this helps me to understand more about the workings of my cars and am able to contribute when my mechanics want to fix them.

Among all the items you have listed its only the TPS-Throttle Position Sensor I know but do not know how to give it the correct setting.

How do I check the line pressure, fluid temperature and correct it if possible?

How do I locate and test the N-D acummulator, engine RPM signal, forward clutch?

Thanking you as I wait for your response.

Yinkebo

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Friday, November 28th, 2008 AT 4:34 PM

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