Too much pressure radiator

Tiny
HAZELSUMMT
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 100,000 miles.

well, I got in an accident few months ago and I have to replace radiator. The first radiator have leakage all over the places. The second was fine until this morning. I turn on the engine for awhile about twenty minutes then turn off the car. Moment later, the hose flew off the radiator and when I tighten it hard enough. Now when I turn the engine for about twenty minutes or ten minutes doing 2 rpm, white smoke coming out of the radiator cap then the radiator itself, then I see leakage of coolant on the lower hose connected to the engine. Plus, fan does not turn on, does not overheat until coolant is almost gone due to external leak. As if it is too much pressure in the radiator causing the coolant to find a place to leak. Is it blown gasket or damage thermostat or water pump? I am so confuse. Please help.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 3:59 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

To better assist you please let me know if your vehicle model is a DX, EX or LX, sedan or coupe. Also the engine size in liter.

When you had the accident did it damage the radiator cooling fan and condenser cooling fan?

When you say the fan does not come on one or both?

When you turn the AC on does either fan come on if so which one?

You said the first radiator then the second. Where are you getting your radiators from?

Did it damage your water pump at all?
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 9:32 AM
Tiny
HAZELSUMMT
  • MEMBER
Well I bought the radiator from a company called "Koyorad" and it was great. After the accident the AC condenser fan does not turn on but the cooling fan does (sometime). The things that was damage in the accident was radiator and condense. I installed the radiator myself. Right now I do not know what component is being damage. In the accident nothing hit the engine. I do all the repairs myself. There is no white smoke in the exhaust pipe so it is not internal leak. Only place is radiator cap, then radiator then spill somewhere near the hose. It pulled all the coolant in the reservoir.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 3:15 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Thanks for more information, but you did not answer my previous question? To better assist you please let me know if your vehicle model is a DX, EX or LX, sedan or coupe. Also, the engine size in liter.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
HAZELSUMMT
  • MEMBER
Honda Accord 1998 V6 3.0L EX coupe.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 4:17 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Thank you for the information. just a couple of things and then I have attached some tests for you to perform.

Are you sure that the radiator fan is the one spinning and not the condenser? I have attached the picture showing the difference.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_1_139.jpg



Also, check the motor of both fans for operation by unplugging them and connecting the battery directly to each one. if the spin then the motors a most likely good.

Does the heater work okay inside the car?

When was the last time you changed your thermostat? If it has been some time I would change it and get a new radiator cap.

Next, if it is driveable, please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O'Reilly's (or) and for free they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you do not get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for free also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

Okay, please perform the checks below:

For this test I believe you can go to an Auto Zone and they have this tester you can check out under the tool program.

Cooling system pressure testing.
Notes :

Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator with engine coolant to the top of the filler neck.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_2_91.jpg



Attach the pressure tester (A) (commercially available) to the radiator and apply a pressure of93-123 kPa (0.95-1.25 kgf/cm2, 14-18 psi) .
Inspect for engine coolant leaks and a drop in pressure.
Remove the tester and reinstall the radiator cap.
Check for engine oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the engine oil.

Next Check

Radiator Fan Circuit
Notes

Check the No.57 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES -Go to step 2. NO -Replace the fuse and recheck.
Remove the radiator fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it. Is the relay OK? YES -Go to step 3. NO -Replace the radiator fan relay.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_3_63.jpg



Measure the voltage between the No.2 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_4_39.jpg



Connect the No.1 and No.2 terminals of the radiator fan relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the radiator fan run? YES -Go to step 9. NO -Go to step 5.
Disconnect the jumper wire.
Disconnect the radiator fan connector.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_5_26.jpg



Check for continuity between the No.1 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and the No.2 terminal of the radiator fan connector. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Repair open in the BLU/BLK wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_6_15.jpg



Check for continuity between the No.1 terminal of the radiator fan connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Replace the radiator fan motor. NO -Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G201.
Disconnect the jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch on (II).


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_7_16.jpg



Measure the voltage between No.3 terminal of the radiator fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. NO -Go to step 11.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_8_8.jpg



Measure the voltage between the No.1 terminal of the radiator fan control module and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Repair open in the YEL wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the radiator fan control modules NO -Perform the radiator fan control module input tests. Refer to Cooling Fan Control Module / Testing and Inspection.

Next Test

Radiator Fan Switch Circuit
Notes

Disconnect the radiator fan switch A connector.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_9_7.jpg



Measure the voltage between the No.2 terminal on the radiator fan switch connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 4. NO -Repair open in the GRN wire between the radiator fan switch A and under-hood fuse/relay box.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_10_6.jpg



Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between the No.1 terminal on the radiator fan switch A connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Go to step 5. NO -Check for an open in the BLK wire between the radiator fan switch A connector and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G101.
Check the cooling system. Is the cooling system OK ? YES -Replace the radiator fan switch A. NO -Repair the cooling system.

Location of Relays


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_1_140.jpg

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Friday, January 2nd, 2009 AT 7:06 PM

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