1998 Honda Accord Radiator Upper Tank Crack-Replace or Repa

Tiny
RAWLEW1736
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
The upper tank (plastic) on the radiator has a crack approx 2". I think the radiator is still OE, and this is first problem I had with it (I had car since 2005 with 160,000 mi- it now has about 220,000 mi). I am wavering on weather I should try a tank weld/glue or just replace the radiator (along with hoses and thermostat was I have never replaced not have I ever flushed it since having the car). Would the plastic weld hold up? The glue cost $10 whereas the new radiator sets be back $150. Please advise. Thanks.
Wednesday, February 18th, 2009 AT 3:31 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Hi there,

Thank you for the donation.

Replace the radiator, if the glue held, and I doubt it very much, the tank is stressed and cracks will appear in different spots, this is a problem with plastic tanks, often the top plate of the core is fractured as well and this is not repairable, replace the tank, do the flush thermostat cap and hoses and you will not have any problems for many years.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Wednesday, February 18th, 2009 AT 3:39 AM
Tiny
RAWLEW1736
  • MEMBER
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Thanks for your reply. Well, I got the radiator thermostat and hoses from Autozone, but after draining the fluid and removing the old radiator I noticed the new one doesn't have a drain valve! So I had to return it to the store which had to order another one. Anyway, I decided to temporarily glue the crack in the old radiator and reinstall it (I only changed the upper hose which was split on removal). After reconnecting everything (fan cables, coolant hoses and transmission lines, CTS connector and batttery negative) the car WON'T START. It cranked-but then kind of sputters before quitting; lights, blower motor and accessories work. I topped off the ATF and retried but it still won't start-less rough rocking/sputtering though. I notice that turning the key the "ON" position without starting there is hissing/low hum sound that last for about 2 seconds and the "check engine" and "maintenance required" lights quit at the same time as the hissing/low hum sound, leaving on, the two other lights (oil level + another one I don't remember). I notice all the lights usually stay on working car with the key in the "ON" position. Would appreciate your feedback on what might be wrong here.
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Thursday, February 19th, 2009 AT 2:07 AM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
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Hi there,

pull the spark plugs and clean them, re check all electrical connections, something will be loose or not making a good conduct, start here and if you can get a scan done as well, but I feel its a power issuer around the battery.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Thursday, February 19th, 2009 AT 3:01 AM

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