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Grinding noise left rear wheel

Tiny
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Welcome back:

I don't recognize the brand, but I'm not sure where you are located. Manufacturers I know are good are bendix, Raybestos, and so on.

Let me know if you get things worked out, and you are very welcome. I just hope I helped.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, July 20th, 2019 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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Hello Joe,

I am located in the Turks and Caicos. And trust me, you have been a great help.

Being that you have 35 years experience with cars I wanted to ask your advice.

Being that my car is 17 years old obviously it won't run like new. It hesitates very noticeably when taking off from a full stop, like at a traffic light. When taking off it would go slowly even if you press the gas pedal even more, then after a few seconds it would accelerate all at once. I have new spark plugs and wires. Also, the transmission seems to be fine. I was going to buy some parts for it.

1. Radiator Fan Assembly, Cooling Fan Controller & Radiator Cap (Changed The Radiator Recently)
2. Belt Tensioner and Idler Pulley (Changed The Belt Recently)
3. A/C Condenser
4. Raybestos Premium Rear Brake Pads
5. Water Pump (Changed the Thermostat Recently)
6. Four New Fuel Injectors & Fuel Filter & Housing Assembly
7. New Ignition Coil

All together would cost me 598 including shipping.

So my question is should I go through with this or just ride the car til the wheels fall off and junk it?

Thank you.
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Sunday, July 21st, 2019 AT 10:13 AM
Tiny
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Hey Joe,

Changed the brake pads and no go. So I am lost. Might just be the wheel bearing for real. I uploaded a video. You can hear the grinding at some points of the video. Just listen for metal on metal sounds.
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Monday, July 22nd, 2019 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
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Welcome back:

First, often times what you described is related to low fuel pressure (pump or filter). When you press the gas, not enough fuel is available and it hesitates. So I would start by checking pressure. Also, make sure nothing us blocking the air intake (air filter) and the filter is good.

As far as the noise, I did hear it. It sounds (please understand I'm listening through a 1 inch computer speaker) like something is hitting /. Touching the rotor. The noise is gone when the brakes are removed, correct? If that is the case, then although I was thinking bearing, it doesn't make sense. Is that still the case with removing the brake pads and the sound goes away? I still think it's something to do with either the warning tab on the brakes (but without change with new pads / unlikely) or the backing plate behind the rotor is touching.

Ugh! If I was there we could figure it out in no time. If I recall, for testing only, the backing plate isn't hard to remove. You may want to take it off and see if that stops it. Also, check the wheel bearing for axial (in and out) play. And make sure the ABS stator isn't rubbing on anything.

Let me know. By the way. Do you need all the things you listed above? That's a lot. If the car is in good condition, I always say. If it needs a couple hundred dollars to fix, what can you get for a couple hundred?

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 23rd, 2019 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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Okay I was thinking the same. Car is old so might be the fuel pump wearing out.

I do not need everything as in need it right now. What I do need is the radiator fan assembly, the belt tensioner and idler pulley and possibly the fuel pump. But since I live in the Turks and Caicos (Close to the Bahamas) I have to order everything to be shipped in from the states. So I was thinking preventative maintenance. Since the car is old and I figure they might soon kick the bucket as I do not know when last they were changed. Good idea or bad?

I checked the backing plate before. I'm thinking it's the wheel bearing. I think it doesn't make any noise when I take off the brakes because the car isn't under pressure when I jack it up and rotate the wheel. I already purchased a new wheel bearing and hub assembly. So I will let you know how that works out. I have attached a video below with a bad wheel bearing and makes the exact same sound my car is making. Only mines is louder. Come to think of it I do remember getting a wheel bearing code a while ago when I scanned my car but it went away so I forgot about it.

Quick question:

I recently sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the connectors for the ignition coil, fuel injectors and the main injector harness (intake harness). Before I did that I disconnected the battery terminals. I let the car dry for hours. Then reconnected everything. Now when I drive the tranny kicks when shifting into 2nd gear and 4th gear. I see not codes popping up. Should give the car some time to relearn or?

Thank you.
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Tuesday, July 23rd, 2019 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
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Welcome back:

Since the battery was disconnected, it could be related to a relearn process. See if it continues. Also, it's never a bad idea to have parts in case they are needed.

For the bearing, here are the directions for replacement. The pics attached correlate with the directions.

__________________________

REAR WHEEL HUB, HUB SPINDLE REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
WHEEL HUB, HUB SPINDLE REMOVAL INSTALLATION

Caution:
Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor may possibly cause an open circuit in the harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, remove the ABS wheel-speed sensor (axle side) and fix it to an appropriate place where the sensor will not be pulled by mistake while the vehicle is being serviced.

Pic 1

1. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
2. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Locknut Removal Note

pic 2

1. Knock the crimped portion of the locknut outward using a small cape chisel and a hammer.
2. Lock the hub by applying the brakes.
3. Remove the locknut.

ABS Sensor Rotor Removal Note

Note:
The sensor rotor does not need to be removed unless it is being replaced.

Pic 3

1. Remove the sensor rotor using a chisel.

ABS Sensor Rotor Installation Note

pic 4

1. Set the SST as shown in the figure.

Caution:
Position the SST so that marking B faces the bottom.

Pic 5

2. Press on the new sensor rotor using the SST and a press.

Locknut Installation Note

pic 6

1. Install a new locknut and stake it as shown.
________________________________

I hope this eliminates the issue. Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, July 24th, 2019 AT 10:28 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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Thank you for all the information Joe, I really do appreciate it. Once the part reaches next week and I fit it on I will let you know how it went.

The Schrader valve for the fuel pressure test adapter is that the screw in valve on the right side of the fuel rail in the picture?

The picture is upside down for some odd reason.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
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Welcome back:

If that is part of the fuel rail, yes. And I look forward to hearing from you on the noise.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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Hey Joe,

Hope all is well. Tried getting the hub off but it is stuck. Seems I might have to find a slide hammer to get it off.

I am writing back to tell that transmission was still kicking from the last time I told it was even after the relearn process. When eventually fixed it was me flooring the gas pedal on the highway. Sped for about thirty seconds. Now it shifts like a dream again. Hope this helps you or someone else who might have the same problem.
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Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
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Welcome back:

That's an interesting fix. Lol As long as it's working, that's all that matters. As far as the hub, if you are referring to the part I highlighted in the pic, a slide hammer can be used or they actually make a puller to get that apart.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe
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Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
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Unfortunately I have to order the slide hammer.
So now I wait. Yes the highlighted part is what I was referring to.

Yes, lol it was an interesting fit.

Take care,

Jean
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Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
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Most part stores will lend or rent the slide hammer or puller to you. However, I don't know where you are located.

I will watch for your findings and if this takes care of the issue.

Take care and good luck.

Joe
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Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 10:28 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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Hey Joe. I hope all is well.

I recently changed the tensioner and idler pulley. I notice a rattle sound once I turn on the compressor. I went and checked and noticed that the idler pulley and belt tensioner pulley do not spin.

I know the idler pulley is supposed to spin. I am going to back off the bolt a little. Maybe I torqued it too tight.

But my question is whether or not the belt tensioner pulley is supposed to be spinning?

Thanks
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Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 10:39 AM
Tiny
JEAND
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Never mind. I went and took off the tire and noticed that the tensioner is the one rattling. The pulley moving up and down quite a bit. And it is spinning.

Could a loose belt (belt not being the right fit or a little too long) cause this?
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Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
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Welcome back and sorry for the delay in getting back to you. If the belt is too long, the tensioner may not be able to tighten it enough. Thus, this could happen. Are both spinning now? Did you change the belt?

Let me know.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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I had changed the belt months before the tensioner and pulley. They are both spinning now. I bought a belt and measured it along side the one I took off my car which was fraying badly.

Maybe the belt I took off the car and measure it against was stretched from wear. Meaning the belt I bought after measuring was too long. I think that might be it. What do you think?
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Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Welcome back:

That is very possible. Have you replace it?

Joe
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Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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No. I have to wait. They do not have the right fit in stock. Will take about two weeks. Should I just not drive the car?
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Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
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That's a tough question for me to answer not being there.
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Thursday, August 8th, 2019 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
JEAND
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Hey Joe,

Hope everything is well. I am still waiting on the slide hammer.

I went to change my fuel filter this morning. I noticed that I did not see the access panel like in the videos. After taking a closer look I noticed two access panels. One on the left and one on the right under the rear seats. The left one has a big "L" and "06Y" stamped on it. The right one has a big "R" and "06X" stamped on it.

I am lost now. I am trying to figure out if this means there are two fuel pumps. Is one a dummy. I'm not sure where to go from here.

I have attached a video and photos.
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Friday, August 16th, 2019 AT 5:47 AM

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