ENGINE NOT STARTING

Tiny
THEONLYFALCO
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 GMC YUKON
Engine Mechanical problem V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 356000 miles

I have a 1998 gmc yukon with 356000 miles the car the truck started and was running badly it was sputtering I drove it like this for about 10 miles and stopped the sputtering, this happened a few times. On the next start up no problems. Then today it would not start but only crank. The truck has new plugs, new fuel pump and filter, new battery. I need to know what to try next.
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Monday, February 15th, 2010 AT 6:26 PM

33 Replies

Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
When it don't start, check for fuel pressure and spark. Even tough you have a new pump, we still need to verify you have 60 psi pressure. You will be able to find direction when you determine what is being lost. If you have no spark, check the distributor cap, coil wire, and coil.

Here is a guide that will help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, February 15th, 2010 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
THEONLYFALCO
  • MEMBER
It appears to be getting spark, I had just replaced the coil two weeks ago. So I need to get some one to check fuel pressure? I did notice the fuel pump seems to run alot and stays running for about a minute after turning key off.
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Tuesday, February 16th, 2010 AT 1:16 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
You can determine if it is a fuel issue real quick, try some starting fluid or other combustible down the throttle. If it only runs long enough to burn it off, you have a fuel issue. Lack of adequate pressure, or injector fire.
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Tuesday, February 16th, 2010 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
THEONLYFALCO
  • MEMBER
I tried the starting fluid and still have the same problem nothing differnt at all. I also pushed the pressure relief valve and fuel shoots out pretty good I have not checked the actual pressure because I dont have a guage I will see if the local garage can check that. Do you think that more than likely it would be the distributor? Or can the coil wire do this?
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Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
You said it appeared to have spark, where did you check for spark at?
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Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 AT 11:53 PM
Tiny
THEONLYFALCO
  • MEMBER
I checked for spark at the plugs. Is there something else to check?
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 10:49 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
No, the spark plugs is where you want it.

Does the engine sound as if it is cranking normally? By that I mean not uneven, or abnormally fast. If it is not starting with fuel, and spark, you have to go further. Has the spark plugs been removed and inspected, perhaps they are fuel fouled. With the miles that you have on it, anything is possible at this point. Since it doesn't even fire with starter fluid, compression and timing would not be out of the question. One way to check that timing is at correct is to get the #1 cylinder up on TDC of the compression stroke, and pull the distributor cap to verify where the rotor points. It should be pointing at the #1 cylinder terminal. Be aware that some caps have terminals located differently than where the wire would be, looking inside the cap usually shows if this is the case. Were the spark plug wires removed from the cap at one time or another, and possibly could be out of firing order? If TDC of #1 can be determined, and the rotor is pointing at other than #1, it has jumped time. If you are going to remove the plugs, I would also do a compression check of all cylinders.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2010 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
THEONLYFALCO
  • MEMBER
It seems to grank normal even sounds as if it wants to hit at times, The plugs are new, After trying to start it will spit or poof I guess a couple of times.
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Friday, February 19th, 2010 AT 4:33 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
The fact that you say spit or poof, and sounds like it wants to hit at times, leads me more into thinking it might be a timing issue. I really would lean toward at least doing a compression check. You have fuel, and you have spark, the only other factors is air and timing. The only other possibility, and this falls under AIR, is having a plugged exhaust due to a degraded cat converter. The problem may be, at this point, that it has been cranked over enough that the fuel will actually wash the oil off of the cylinder walls, resulting in low or no compression. A restricted exhaust can also give you low compression readings, becasue only so much air can be drawn in. You can try first to remove an oxygen sensor, and see if it will start with the extra ability to exhaust. I have no way in determining what condition we are in at this stage, But you need to go back to basics, and make sure you are dealing with a healthy motor. Here is the order I would address it in.
First I would remove the plugs, check to make sure they are not fuel fouled from liquid(wet). I would run the #1 cylinder to TDC and check the rotor position. I don't know for sure if the balancer has a TDC mark, otherwise you will have to do it the hard way. Start by bumping the engine over(w/plugs out and coil disabled) untill you feel pressure out of #1 hole. Then you would have to insert a rod or screwdriver in and touch the piston while rotating the engine by hand, until it reaches the top of it's travel. It is critical that it is at the top. Then check to make sure your rotor is pointing at #1 on the cap.
Next, with the plugs out and spark disabled, I would do a compression test on all eight. If you have low compression on one or more, add a squirt or two of oil into the easiest cylinder with an oil can, this is called a wet test. If your compression restores significantly, you have rinsed cylinder walls, and a wet test on all would be suggested. At least the better part of the eight, and it would correct itself when it runs.
At this point you may have come to a conclusion. If not, and the plugs are dry, reinstall them and connect the ignition. Remove an oxygen sensor, and crank it to see if it fires. If so, you may have a plugged exhaust.
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Saturday, February 20th, 2010 AT 12:10 AM
Tiny
THEONLYFALCO
  • MEMBER
I had it towed to the garage, They had put it on a battery charger and sprayed starter fluid and cranked it for about ten minutes straight and started and so far is still starting.? What do you think?
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Saturday, February 20th, 2010 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
Falls in line with the rinsed cylinder walls, perhaps. But how did it get that way, I couldn't tell you. Is the vehicle running fine still?
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 12:29 AM
Tiny
THEONLYFALCO
  • MEMBER
So far so good, Except the wife trying to take out the mailbox with it today.
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2010 AT 1:01 AM
Tiny
2CARPROS LINSEY
  • MEMBER
We appreciate your donation and hope we can help you again any time you need us. Have a great day.
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Monday, March 1st, 2010 AT 2:12 PM
Tiny
JOE_N_LA
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 GMC YUKON
Electrical problem V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 103000 miles

Just got this one from a friend and (have heard of it, but never seen it) the battery ground wire was fried in half and the batter had reversed polarity. Replaced solinoid and battery, repaired ground wire, but it's not getting spark. A few minor fuses were blown, but none of the larger and they quit popping once I figured out the reversed polarity and changed batteries. Everything looks normal now, but can't figure it out.
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 9:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOE_N_LA
  • MEMBER
Scratch the question. The answer was the ignition module. Coil was fine and didn't need to replace it. Change out the battery and the IM, and it runs quiet as a mouse! Thanks anyway.
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 9:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 9:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MAYDAY
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 GMC YUKON
  • 190,000 MILES
Gmc yukon1998 starts sometime. Doesnt start sometime. When it doesn't start it sputters then pauses then sputters like it is trying to start. Starting problem
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 9:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Check fuel pressure and suspect a bad fuel pump
also check if security light on and blinking
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 9:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MAYDAY
  • MEMBER
It has good fuel pressure
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 9:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
When you say its good what is the pressure?
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 9:40 AM (Merged)

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