Fuel Too Leak (Bank 2)

Tiny
JGONZO2398
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CEL is off at the moment, I scanned it to be sure and no codes came up
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2025 AT 8:52 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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One more thing, I ran some live data tests once again today after the car had sat for a few hours. On cold start idle, the short term fuel trims were around +7.8% on Bank 1 and +26.6% on Bank 2, with long term trims at 1/6% (B1) and +6.3% (B2). Then, when I revved the engine to around 3,000 RPM while parked, both short term trims stabilized at 0.0% and the long terms held steady -1.6% (B1) and +7.0% (B2). Seems like Bank 2's short term correction disappears once RPMs increase, which makes me think the Bank 2 upstream O2 sensor is slow or biased when cold, since the ECU no longer adds extra fuel under load. Thoughts?
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Wednesday, November 5th, 2025 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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In the case of it being cold, the ECU isn't controlling the fuel yet, it just uses a simple table to add fuel, once it heats up and the O2 sensors start operating then it will go into closed loop and you will see the numbers change as the ECU starts using feedback from the sensors to control the fuel mix. Take a look at the O2 mv readings and run it up to about 3000 rpms and see if you read 800 mv or so with it wide open. That should at least tell you if the O2 is responding within range as the ECU should go open loop at WOT. If you see something different then the sensor is likely faulty.
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Thursday, November 6th, 2025 AT 9:30 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Got it, this is very helpful information, thank you! So just to clarify, start the car up, let it idle for several minutes to get the engine hot and the temp gauge to the center, then do those readings? Both at idle and at the revved 3000 RPMs? My sensor does live data for the O2 sensor voltages, that's what we want, correct?
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Thursday, November 6th, 2025 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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You have it. The open loop while cold just show that the sensors are there, then you can watch as they start reporting, if bank one starts reporting in say 20 seconds but bank two takes a minute that would tell you that it has a problem, but not what the problem is. Then once it warms up watch both sensor one voltages for both banks. The images are still wonky so that would make it harder, but if your tool allows you to capture the results you could create a video for later. However watch both sensors at WOT, if they are close to the same voltages the system is reading them correctly and we need to look for a different problem. BUT if you have ordered the parts, you might change out the sensor, just to see how it reports. Also you might want to clear the systems learned values, some scan tools will let you do that in the special tests. That resets things like base idle, fuel trims go to zero and timing resets. Then you start there and see what it does. If you warm it up and still have the system adding fuel then it's time to clamp off all vacuum lines, I have seen bad brake boosters and other vacuum items leak, generally they cause a problem on both banks though. Same with fuel pressure, both sides are fed the same so it likely isn't a bad pump. Ignition is the same, plus an engine misfire would be noticed. Being this is on only one bank it is something else.
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Thursday, November 6th, 2025 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Thank you so much, that explanation helped a ton. I ordered an OBDLink MX+ that will be here later today so I can pull live data from all O2 sensors. My FIXD scanner didn't give me the option to read the other sensors, only one, so fingers crossed this new one will actually let me see what Bank 2 is doing. I will report back once I have that data because I really just want to be sure already, I've never taken my car for this long of a road trip but I'm also always constantly on top of my maintenance like a maniac with it
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Thursday, November 6th, 2025 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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We'll be here and hopefully fully operational when you have the data.
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Friday, November 7th, 2025 AT 5:38 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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OH if you want some fun on a similar situation my friend Paul just did an interesting case showing the testing I'm suggesting, looking at the trims and then a flow test. So you might find them interesting as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4-5eAsbgCw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iguLgNhavAs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuCDEpLZH0g
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Friday, November 7th, 2025 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Thank you, I’ll be performing the live data tests soon here. Hey Steve, do you happen to have an email or another form of contact? I’ve been wanting to send you screenshots of those tests (fuel trim, sensor voltages, etc.) But the site doesn’t seem to let me
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Friday, November 7th, 2025 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Alright, finally performed the live data tests with this new fancy scanner, here are the results:

At idle (fully warm)
Bank 1 LTFT: +1.6%
Bank 1 STFT: +7%
Bank 2 LTFT: +15 to16%
Bank 2 STFT: +25-30%
O2 sensors both cycling from 0.1 to 0.8V

Revved at 3000 RPM
Bank 1 LTFT: +1.6%
Bank 1 STFT: +7%
Bank 2 LTFT: +15 to 16%
Bank 2 STFT: 0%
O2 sensors still both cycling from 0.1 to 0.8V
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Friday, November 7th, 2025 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Another detail I’ve noticed while driving is that when coming to a stop at a light, then hitting the gas on green, the engine may stumble or hesitate. Not all the time but it does happen sometimes
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Friday, November 7th, 2025 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, it looks like you have an injector that is leaking or you have a catalytic converter that is partially clogged, I would remove the spark plugs on bank two and look at them, you are looking for the one, (or all) that are dark in color. This will be the cylinder that is leaking, also you could have low compression on that cylinder as well. Here is a guide to help check the converter on bank 2

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please go over this guide and get back to us and let us know what you find.
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Monday, November 10th, 2025 AT 8:51 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Just to be sure, Bank 2 is the front of my specific engine and cylinders 4, 5, and 6 would be at the front, right? In that case, I will check all of the coils and plugs there. Since you mention this, my concern now is the low compression you mention. Back in July of this year, I had a misfire code on cylinder 4 and it turned out there was zero compression on that cylinder. That job costed me $1,800 for a cylinder head replacement, timing chain and water pump as well. Should I be concerned? My road trip to Cali is in three days from now
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Monday, November 10th, 2025 AT 10:51 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Also, just as an FYI, I replaced the MAF sensor, intake hose boot (accordion looking one), purge valve solenoid and PCV valve, all with Honda OEM parts
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Monday, November 10th, 2025 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Quick update, after those replacements, I went ahead and ran the same live data tests once again. At idle, Bank 1 STFT stayed around 0 to -1.6% with LTFT +5/5% to -2.3%, while Bank 2 STFT ranged 15-18.8% and LTFT +8.6 to +20.3%. At 3,000 RPM, Bank 1 STFT -4.7% to -1.6%, LTFT -2.3%, and Bank 2 STFT 6.3-10.2%, LTFT +9.4%. O2 sensors on both cycled normally between 0.1-0.8 V. Fuel trims on Bank 2 seemed to drop at the higher RPM, so it seems like the lean condition eases under load somewhat
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Monday, November 10th, 2025 AT 2:10 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes, bank 2 is on the left side of the engine, closest to the front of the car. Let me know what you find.
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2025 AT 9:53 AM

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