Fuel system problem

  • 2000 DODGE RAM
  • 5.9L
  • 180,000 MILES
My van turns and turns and turns(it won't quit trying) but no matter what it won't fire. Not getting gas to the engine. My guess is the expensive ass fuel pump that just so happens to be a fuel pump/filter all in one set up. $259 can you believe that crap. I'm guessing it's slowly going out though because it'll start sometimes when I have a wild hair up my ass to try and start it but most the time my gas line is acting like it has E.D. Or something. I don't know everything about vehicles and I'll admit that. But I'm young and want to learn everything I can. Is there anything else I should check before I drop the big ol 35 gal tank? I've checked most the fuses and made sure it was a fuel problem before anything but I guess I'm just hoping I don't have to drive it away with my pockets broke. Any ideas or tips? Even obvious ones. I'm open to anything. Ain't ashamed of wanting to learn and fix it myself because I can change the pump I just got high hopes it's something cheaper.
Do you
have the same problem?
Thursday, September 8th, 2016 AT 2:26 AM

1 Reply

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Thursday, September 8th, 2016 AT 2:33 AM

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