Fuel line disconnect connectors?

Tiny
GOLFSCAPE
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
I cannot disengage the connectors at the fuel pump. All directions for this refer to the spring locking type and how to slide the tool down the line etc. Mine are not that type. I have the spring lock type on my fuel filter and have used the plastic tool there but fuel pump connectors are different. There is a rubber access port to the side of the connector but what tool is used to loosen these?
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Thursday, July 5th, 2018 AT 9:45 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
The tool has a small collar that goes into the line at the connector. You turn the tool while pushing on the line to spread the spring to remove the line.

I found this awesome video for you:

https://youtu.be/Boi0DPXVHbM

Thank you for using 2CarPros.com. Roy
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Thursday, July 5th, 2018 AT 3:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOLFSCAPE
  • MEMBER
No one seems to have read my question. I clearly stated that I do not have the type clamps you explain and yes it is a Ford F150 original equipment. Please try again. Thanks
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Thursday, July 5th, 2018 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Sorry we had to use 2004 fuel line diagrams there must have been a mid year switch. Check out the diagrams below make sure you push the fuel lines together while releasing the connector.

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, July 6th, 2018 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
GOLFSCAPE
  • MEMBER
Did Ford use this connector on fuel pump fittings on 2003 F150's? It is not like mine.
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Saturday, July 7th, 2018 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Can you take a picture of what you are talking about so I can see what is going on please?
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Saturday, July 7th, 2018 AT 11:34 AM
Tiny
GABRIELS352
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 147,000 MILES
I am replacing both fuel lines due to leaking to the top and bottom of fuel filter. The lines are 5/16 rubber hose for a foot before it becomes metal fuel rail. Now the idle is rough and making a is clicking noise.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
At the fuel rail, confirm that fuel pump pressure is within the manufacturer's specs. If it is, check to make sure you did not switch the lines (supply/return) or damage or disconnect any vacuum lines.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHERRYSTYLIST1
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD F-150
  • 5.8L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 107,000 MILES
So I have a 1993 f150 5.8 v8 2wd truck and it was leaking fuel from the BLUE steel
braided line that goes from the metal fuel line to the reserve tanks fuel pump. I am
currently pregnant so I asked a family member who has worked as a mechanic to
take a look at it for me. HORRIBLE IDEA! He dropped the tank and used a quick
disconnect tool on the fuel pump side of the steel braided line however he got the
GENIUS idea to take a hacksaw to the side of the line that goes into the steel line
then left it. Now I am in a pickle and need to know how to disconnect the remaining
side of the line so I can take the entire hose to a place locally and have a new one
made.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It y have a quick disconnect as well or a regular screw out type fitting. I am attaching pics of wht the two different ones look like you will need a special tool for both so try to find out what you have. Auto parts should have the tool.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WAYNE TRAMMELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 FORD F-150
I was driving and my engine just quit. I poured fuel in the intake and it runs for a short time. The fuel pump doesnt come on with key. I have twin tanks and neither works so I ruled out the fuel pumps. I got a wireing diagram and checked the Relay Inertia switch and the tank switch and they all had 6.5 volts. Shouldnt it be 12v? I think maybe the fused link could be half blown. Does this sound logical and if so where is it?
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
FUEL DELIVERY (PICKUP & F-SUPERDUTY) In-Tank Reservoir (ITR) Fuel Pump Testing 1. Ensure fuel tank has adequate fuel. Turn ignition off. Install fuel pressure gauge. Install a test lead to Fuel Pump (FP) lead of VIP test connector. See Fig. 9 . Turn ignition on, engine off. Ground test lead to run fuel pump. Check fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS . If fuel pressure is within specification, go to step 5). If fuel pressure is not within specification, go to next step. 2. If pressure is low, but greater than 3 PSI (21 kPa), go to next step. If pressure is not more than 3 PSI (21 kPa) go to step 4). 3. Check fuel system for: Plugged fuel filter (replace filter and check again for proper pressure). Kinked/restricted fuel lines (visual inspection). Low voltage to fuel pump (should be within 0.5 volt of battery voltage at connector). Disconnect return fuel line and note if fuel is being returned during this low pressure condition. If fuel is being returned, replace or adjust pressure regulator. If a problem was found, repair as necessary. After repair, go to step 1) and retest system. If a problem was not found, replace fuel pump and go to step 1) and retest system. 4. Check the following electrical circuit problems: Ensure inertia switch is not open (reset switch as required). Wiring at fuel pump/tank connector loose or open. Fuel pump ground connection at chassis loose or defective. Improper fuel pump relay operation (should operate when fuel pump test lead is grounded with the ignition key on). EEC relay not operating if fuel pump relay doesn't operate. If a problem was found, repair as necessary. After repair, go to step 1) and retest system. If a problem was not found, replace fuel pump and go to step 1) and retest system. 5. Remove ground from test lead and note pressure on gauge. Pressure should remain within 2 PSI (14 kPa) for 3 minutes after lead is ungrounded. If pressure holds as specified, go to step 7). If pressure does not hold as specified, go to next step. 6. Check fuel lines and connectors for leakage. Disconnect fuel return line and plug engine side. Momentarily activate fuel pump by grounding test lead. Raise pressure to approximate operating pressure and repeat step 5). If pressure holds, replace pressure regulator and repeat step 5). If pressure decays rapidly, go to next step. If system still fails step 5), there may be a leaking fuel injector or rail. Repair as necessary and go to step 5). 7. If pressure decays rapidly enough that needle movement can be observed, replace ITR unit if equipped with a single tank. If equipped with dual tanks, go to next step. If pressure holds, go to step 10). 8. Remove fuel supply line from sender port of midship tank. Change pressure gauge from 5/16" to 3/8" adaptor to fit fuel line quick connector. Connect gauge to end of supply line removed frommidship sender. Move the tank selector switch to REAR tank position. Turn ignition on and hold until fuel pump shuts itself off (approximately one second). Turn ignition off. Observe pressure gauge. If pressure holds steady, go to next step. If pressure does not hold steady, replace rear ITR unit and go to next step. 9. Remove fuel pressure gauge from supply line. Install a 3/8" right-angle quick-connector to pressure gauge. Connect gauge to midship tank ITR supply port. Move the tank selector switch to the FRONT tank position. Turn ignition to on position and hold until fuel pump shuts itself off (approximately one second). Turn ignition off. Observe pressure gauge. If pressure holds steady, midship ITR unit is okay. Remove fuel pressure gauge and reconnect all fuel lines. Go to step 1) to retest system. If pressure does not hold steady, replace midship ITR unit. Go to step 1 to retest system. 10. Disconnect and plug vacuum line connected to the pressure regulator. Start engine and run at idle. Check fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS . If fuel pressure is within specification, go to step 12). If fuel pressure is not within specification, go to next step. 11. Check the following for cause of low pressure: Fuel filter restriction. Improper fuel regulator adjustment. Fuel line restricted. Improper voltage to fuel pump (battery voltage at pump connections). If a problem was found, repair as necessary. After repair, go to step 1) and retest system. If a problem was not found, replace fuel pump and go to step 1) and retest system. 12. With engine running at idle and vacuum line disconnected, note fuel rail pressure. Rapidly accelerate engine and watch fuel pressure. If pressure remains within 5 PSI of starting pressure, system is okay. If pressure does not remain within 5 PSI of starting pressure, go to step 11). NOTE: Road testing vehicle while monitoring pressure may give a better test under load conditions.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_150fuel_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_150dt_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_f150_1.jpg

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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WAYNE TRAMMELL
  • MEMBER
This answer sucks. Why do I cear about fuel pressure tests when I dont have eather fuel pump working. I only have 6.5 volts at the relay.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Did you see the part about grounding the fuel pump TEST connector? Yes 6 volts is low, did you bother to read my reply? It tells you voltage should be within.05 volt of battery voltage, now ground the test connector and see if the d_a_m_n thing runs.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Wayne do this test, and get back to me, we will get it going, but testing IS needed, I am not at your truck so these tests are helpful, with only 6.5 volts, the ground is either corroded or broken. Pull the connector aprat and look for corrosion(green goo) and clean it with brakkleen or electrical contact cleaner. If none found, check continuity of the ground wire.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)

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