Ford Windstar, 2001, 3.8, 74,000
Yesterday the Emission System Warning Light came on in my Ford Windstar. I did some reading on the subject in the owners manual and on this site. It sounds like it could be a number of things that could cause it from the pcv valve to the cat. Converter. I did notice the van idling rougher than usual yesterday so the first thing we will try will be the pcv valve, then the EGR valve.
Does that sound like a good approach?
Is the van safe to drive until we figure this out?
Also, I've read that the warning light won't go off when fixed so how are we to know if that was the problem or not? A few months ago, I got a warning light for brake fluid. We added brake fluid and the light went out and hasn't come on since. Maybe that will happen here also?
First thing is to get your vehicle scanned for codes, most auto parts places will do it for free, make sure you get the code numbers, secondly, do not blindly start replacing pieces, it's a waste of $$$$$. After the issue is resolved, the light will turn itself off after a pre-determined number of warm-up cycles, depending on the part, as amany as 40 warm-ups. Or you can have someone with a scan tool turn the light off, when you turn the light off, it also resets all the vehicle emission control monitors back to " not ready status", one reason why turning the light off if your state has emission testing, the car will fail if all the monitors have not run. I recommend that you spend a few bucks and buy your own obdII reader, anywhere from 70 on up, depending on complexity, you can find out a lot from using one, read up on the systems they're quite interesting, as long as everything is working correctly. You can still drive, the vehicle just won't be at optimum, system is designed to compensate for failed pieces, however not at best efficiency, failure effects management mode, femn as it's known, is programmed into all systems, good luck
July, 12, 2007 AT 7:05 PM
We did take our van to an auto shop to be put on a computer. I don't have the exact code, but I know it said " insufficient air flow" egr valve. We purchased a new valve and installed that. They told us they couldn't remove the warning light, but suggested that we unplug the battery for about 1/2 hour to clear the memory. We did that and I could tell the van ran much smoother for about 20 miles, then the light came back on and the " chugging" started again. I can drive it through town without too much problem, but as soon as I get it up to 65 miles/hr on the highway, it starts to make a farily loud noise and shakes.
We took it back to the auto parts store and the tester read the same thing as before even after installing the new valve. They told us to put massive amounts of carb cleaner in the passages to clean them out. We tried that and nothing has improved. Any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
August, 8, 2007 AT 8:45 AM
DPFE sensor check for 5 volts middle wireis ground front wire is 5 volts with key on then 4-6 volts on back wire as engine heats up.
$57? At auto aone.