2002 Ford Windstar ABS and Trac-Off dashlights On

Tiny
BILDONMAC44
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 84,000 MILES
My 2002 Ford Windstar Sport started having problems with the Yellow ABS, red brakelight and yellowTrac-off dashlights staying on. Now yesterday the speedometer started malfunctioning by only climbing to 30 mpg regardless of how fast I drove. During the December 2009 Ford Windstar recall notice, the Ford garage added a jumper wire with a fusible-link telling me this would prevent a fire from ocurring. However, after reading the many comments from other Windstar owners, I feel that the recall should have been more complete. When I first start the engine cold, these dashlights remain off, but once the engine heats up, they come on and stay on. I have not yet checked the switch under the master cylinder for leaks or dampness, but from all the other comments, this sounds like my problem also. I took the van back to the Ford garage and they said my ABS module needed to be replaced at a cost of $750 plus labor for total of over $1000. I am reluctant to do this, especially if this will not be a long term fix. One final item is the back-up sensors in the rear bumper which no longer work. Could they also be affected by this braking problem or is that a completely separate issue?
Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 1:41 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Since they diagnosed it as the ABS module (which will do what you described). You may want to get a second opinion, just like you would with a doctor. Ford most likely scanned the ABS/Traction control system to get the codes, which may have been the determining factor in their diagnosis. Without knowing these codes, its hard to say what it is, but if they repalced that module and it didnt fix it, its their baby from that point on.I would try a shop with ASE certified techs and have them diagnose it, just to see if they agree with the first one (dont tell them about it though). The extra couple bucks may save you in the long run if it isnt the ABS module. The proximity sensors are most likely on their own from the ABS system
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
BILDONMAC44
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I now have removed the air cleaner assembly and checked the switch beneath the master cylinder and found it to be dry. I did notice the jumper cable with fusible-link Ford had installed at the December 2009 recall. You had asked about the codes that the Ford mechanics had found and they wrote this: "73818 ABS/TC light verified light was on. Pulled codes C1185, C1194, C1198, C1210, 1214, 1242, 1246, 1250, 1254,1404,1410. Looked in WSM followed pinpoint test I, Replace anti-lock brake control module. Advised customer, customer did not want repair. Cleared codes." Regarding the rear bumper back-up sensors, the Ford mechanic stated: "73818 Parking aid verified parking aid was inoperable. Ran self test on parking aid code C1909. Followed pinpoint test. Replace inner right parking aid sensor. Advised customer. Customer didn't want to replace. Cleared codes." They quoted me a price of $750.00 plus labor to replace the ABS module and $350.00 to replace the parking aid sensor. Are these costs realistic or would I be better off trying mechanics at a private repair facility?
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2010 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
An independent shop is almost always less expensive than the dealer. Dealers usually have higher hourly shop rates that small shops to cover more overhead, parts will be close to the same price most of the time unless they small shop uses aftermarket instead of OEM parts which is what the dealer will use. Since you know what you need, try calling a few reputable shops in your area and geting quotes for those exact repairs.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2010 AT 8:08 AM

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