1997 Ford Windstar

Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Ford Windstar 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

how does the engine come out top or bottom
Do you
have the same problem?
Sunday, August 16th, 2009 AT 8:09 AM

1 Reply

I answered a similar question so I'm copying from another (my) recent post:

You're in for a real treat if you decide to swap a Windstar engine. I've done a few. Here's a few items to look out for.

For safety's sake, I remove the radiator fans and radiator. You'll be happy to have the extra maneuvering space when you have the engine hoisted halfway out of the engine bay. Of course, removal of the radiator requires removal of the front bumper and headlight skeleton/frame. Be ready for some minor bodywork removal.

Remove the plastic decorative frame at the windshield and the other frame below it which holds the windshield wiper linkages. You'll be amazed at how much extra space this gives all of a sudden when it's gone.

Remove the crank harmonic balancer, belt tensioner, and water pump pulley. You'll need the space between the engine and chassis frame when separating the engine from the tranny. (To clear the flex plate from the tranny torque converter).

The transmission wraps around from the driver side to the passenger side near the firewall. Don't forget there are some hard-to-get-to tranny-to-engine block mounting bolts on the passenger side. Look thru the passenger side wheel well to access them.

The exhaust system is most annoying in my opinion. Detaching the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold at the firewall side (Cyl's 1-2-3) is remarkably difficult unless you have very nimble hands and wrists that bend in all kinds of awkward positions.

Make sure you don't damage the exhaust heat shield which protects the vehicle speed sensor. You don't want that sensor going bad due to heat after you finish your engine swap. Just look thru the wheel well at how well it is hidden behind the engine mount and sandwiched between the engine block and tranny/cV-Joint output shaft.

I've actually found it more convenient to remove the engine and tranny as a connected set from the engine bay instead of trying to detach the engine from the tranny inside the car. Using this step, though, keep in mind you need to remove the CV joints and a few extra wiring harness connections.

Some mechanics manuals INSIST that the engine needs to be removed by lifting the entire car, dismounting the subframe from the body, and lowering the entire front subframe with engine/tranny attached.. Nah. Don't believe it.

I don't remove the hood; don't find it necessary. It pivots out of the way enough to clear the engine and hoist. The brake master cylinder sometimes gets in the way when you pull the engine and tranny out as a set, but you can twist the engine while on the sling for the tranny case to clear it.

I can't elaborate on the other hundreds of details to look out for such as wiring harness connections and EVAP lines. Just label everything before disconnection, take pictures, put your bolts in seperate plastic containers. So that when you're ready to re-install, you have everything in order.

Have fun.
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Friday, August 21st, 2009 AT 11:41 AM

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