1993 Ford Tempo 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 80000 miles
Yesterday afternoon I took a ride of about 100km. When arrived to destination, I stop the car. About 45 minutes after, I go and start the car, the car would crank but will not start.
When I turn the key, I hear no fuel pump at all. I disconnect the fuel line right before the fuel filter and there was pressure at start but after, there was no pressure at all. Even when I turn the key on and start position. That tell me that the fuel pump doesn't work at all.
I putted some gas in the air intake and the car did start for couple of sec until the gas went dry. Telling me that only gas is missing.
I decided to sleep over and let the car out and call a mechanic tomorrow morning (this morning) but I say hey.I'll give it a try. And it works!
I make my trip back home (100km) no problem. Now I am back at home and when I arrived, I stop the car and try it again. Didn't hear the fuel pump again.
Something tell me that it's electronic related. A relay perhaps? I've make a search and the car doesn't have a fuel pump relay but it's included in a module (CCRM) Constant Control Relay Module.
Is it possible that when the engine is hot, that module when getting hot make that issu and when the engine is getting cold, the cold soldered joint makes contact again and everything works?
You could get another module from scrapyard and try?
April, 5, 2010 AT 4:37 PM
Yes, this is what I am planning to do. The nearest scrapwards are 100km away and after making 2 calls, they all get rid of them. But I think someone has one and it's parked for years.I will call to see if I can get some parts from him later on tonight.
I needed to make that 100km trip again and didn't stop the car when I was to destination and the 200km went well but still issu, when I am here, no fuel pump sound. Last time it took at least 6 hours to cool off before starting again so I thought of removing the ccrm module and putting it in the fridge for 1 hour or so and install it back on the car to see if it will work. If so, I think it's gotta be that module. If it still doesn't work.I am thinking of the engine computer.
It has been 45 mins the module is in the fridge now, waiting for the rain to stop and will install it back in the car. Being < cold>.
Will tell you guys what's up next
April, 6, 2010 AT 8:21 AM
After being in the fridge for a while, I install the module back on my car and give it a shot. At first try, didn't heard a thing, no fuel pump than on my second, third.10th time works every time. I thought maybe on the first try, the ccrm module needed to be energized or some and that explain why I didn't heard no fuel pump.
That really looks like it's that module making that issu. That module take car of 3 things. Radiator fan, ac clutch and fuel pump relay and guess what. Until the end of last summer I haven't heard the ac compressor kick in when the ac mode is on.
The guy I thought I would find that module said that he have two tempo for parts, a 1973 and 1979. Clearly he doesn't have no clues what's the year on the tempos or he wanna keep it for himself.I'll find it somewhere else
April, 13, 2010 AT 9:41 PM
I received the ccrm and engine computer yesterday. I decided to swap the ccrm first off yesterday night and that didn't correct the issu. The car stayed at work tonight cause it won't start.I can't hear the fuel pump at all when I turn the ignition key.
I am sure tomorrow morning, after sitting outside it will be cooled off and will start no problem. Until I drive off with it, get hot abit and turn if off. I am sure it gonna do the same thing!
I will be trying to do a computer engine swap tomorrow and see what happen.
Or maybe it's the inertia switch but on forum, people experient problem while driving. Not when trying to start the car. While being still hot.
April, 16, 2010 AT 9:37 PM
Another thing to do. The car has a diagnostic connector under hood by pass strut tower. At least on 92 it is there. A plastic plug with wires. The dark green/yellow stripe wire is ground for the fuel pump relay. If you run a wire from ground push into this connector slot(G/Y wire) and turn key on the pump should run continuously. If you hear nothing, go to trip switch in trunk and check for power in and out. If power is there, then looks like pump or pump wiring is bad. You can access pump by making hole in metal under back seat. It's right under the hump in the middle. I use a chisel and cut out an oblong piece about 10" long by 8" wide. When done I make a replacement cover out of sheet metal so I can have easy future access. I seal it with caulk. Or you can remove gas tank to get at pump.
April, 18, 2010 AT 8:36 PM
I did another ride today, 80km and when I shut the car, same thing happen no fuel pump sound when I tried to restart it. So I tried what you suggest me. At the driver strut tower, I found an EEC connector. Remove the cover and found 6 connector total. One row of 2 (top) and another row of 4 connector. The bottow row, last connector at right have two wires connected, both having green and yellow in color. I have a test light so I poked the connector and hooked it to the ground of the battery and nothing (while the key was turned to on position). After a sec or two, the test light light up maybe half bright it suppose to, telling me it has about 5 to 6 volt of current but no sound of the fuel pump.
I located and remove the harnest at the inertial switch. There are 3 holes in the harnest connector but have 2 connector with wires. I tried the 2 with the help of the test light again, using a bolt near by as ground and didn't had current also but realise later that I didn't had a good ground. (Because I give it a try again when the car was working again, about 1.5. Hours later)
Tomorrow I will reproduce the same issu ( 80km ride) and will retry if I can locate current at the inertia switch and using the ground of the battery this time.
If current is at inertia switch, what can I do from there? Is it from inertia switch to fuel pump?
Thanks for your help,
April, 19, 2010 AT 10:14 PM
Ok, same situation. Stop car when engine was hot (200km ride) and tried to restart it, no fuel pump buzzing. So pop the hood and insert paper clip in eec harness, fuel pump test terminal and ground the other end with the batt terminal, turn the key to on and heard a click at the fuel pump relay I would guess but no fuel pump buzzing at all. Pop the trunk and remove the inertia switch from harnest and insert paper clip into the input and output terminal directly from the harness to bypass inertia switch, still no fuel pump. Used a test light, took the ground from batt and touched the paper clip still at harness and the light lit just fine. Use multimeter and had 11.33 volt at inertia harness connector.
What can I do from here. What wire that inertia wire output goes? Does it go straight to the fuel pump?
Ps: august of 08 the fuel pump was replaced by a trustworthy mechanic. He replace also the sender unit and fuel filter. It's a carter fuel pump.
Thanks again !
April, 21, 2010 AT 9:05 AM
Yup! Output should go strate to pump. Pump also has a ground wire. I wonder why only 11.3 volts? Should be 12.X does reading at battery read 11.3? And how many amps is the question! Not enough amps, wont run pump! Try to test a spare car headlight off trip switch to see if it's bright! Who installed that pump recently and was it a new 1?
April, 21, 2010 AT 1:11 PM
Okay so if the output of the inertia switch goes to teh fuel pump, it could be the wires itself which is bad (i doubt that) or the fuel pump itself. From here I would need to drop that tank and look if I have voltage to the fuel pump terminal but i'm scared to play with the tank itself.I am afraid to make a spark or something and explode in my face : )
Yes, I found also that 11.3 volts at inertia harness is kinda fishy and check at the batt and same voltage.
Now the car won't start at all, even not used all night long and it's like 0 celcius outside. So I ask my dad if he can pull me to the garage with is truck and before doing so. Just for curiosity I ask him to give me a boost and the fuel pump just won't kick in anyways.
How do I test the amp on a battery? I was actually wondering that.
Tonight I will know more what's up with the car, I will tell you guys what's the issu exactly.
Yes, a new pump and sending unit installed august 08 by a trustworthy mecanic I known for some time.
Thanks for your help all along fixit mr, appreciated !
April, 22, 2010 AT 10:21 PM
It was indeed the fuel pump. Now the pump has been changed and the car works flawlessly. So if you have changed your fuelpump no more than 2 years ago and got about 30 000 km on it and onced started, the car works well but when hot, can't be started ( no primed, no gas). It can still be the pump itself.
I've wasted to much time trying to figure out what's going on when you turn the key instead of using the tools that the car had for me to diagnose the issu. (EEC connector - fuel pump tester lead) with ground.
I should of insert the paperclip in the eec connector and ground it and listen if pump work, if not, check if power was at inertia switch, if power is there, great chance the fuel pump is bad.
I've changed the ecu and ccrm for nothing. I was too sure the fuel pump was good. I thought it was linked to electronic equipement.