97 Taurus 3.0 w/auto transmission

Tiny
STEADYHAND
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD TAURUS
I have a 97 Taurus w/ automatic transmission. The car has a 98 engine however. I recently acquired this car from a friend. He put the 98 engine in the car since the last engine was basically on its last leg so to speak. After installing the engine, he drove the car for a while without any problems. It started, ran, and shifted fine. However, a couple of months ago when he still owned the car, he said it began burning fuel very rich and about the same time the speedometer quit and the transmission would not shift out of first gear. The car runs rough at an idle and you can hear the idle as it is very inconsistant. If I rev up the engine it will spit and sputter quite a bit. I'm sure this is due to the fuel problem. As I said, I recently got this car. My friend was tired of trying to figure out the problem so he just got a new car and gave this one to me. There is a check engine light which I plan to get the codes for very soon. Nevertheless, I am wondering if the fuel problem, speedometer problem, and failure to shift are all related since they began around the same time. The V.S.S has already been replaced so that didn't solve the speedometer or shifting problem. Furthermore, I am aware the transmission is fine. Whenever I start the car, I must drop the transmission into 1st and drive up the street until I reach 3500 RPM and then I can shift into overdrive and from that point on the car will shift on its own. I can then stop at a light or stop sign and when I take off the transmission will shift out of 1st gear on its own. I only have to do that after I first start the car. The car has been taken to a shop and the mechanics determined nothing mechanical is wrong and therefore it must be electrical. My question is, given your automotive experience, do you believe the problem might be the P.C.M. Or another problem? I've worked on my own cars many, many times but I've never had an electrical problem before. Upon researching the powertrain control module for this car, I've found that it does control the transmissions shifting and the fuel mixture. It seems very rare that a P.C.M. Goes bad on a car but in your honest opinion do you believe that might be the cause for this trouble? I would appreciate any input you can offer. Thank you.
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Sunday, September 9th, 2007 AT 2:24 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
If it has the MIL lit you MUST retieve the codes BEFORE you do anything else! The car is trying to tell you were to look, but you will not see!
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Sunday, September 9th, 2007 AT 7:36 AM
Tiny
STEADYHAND
  • MEMBER
I have received the codes from autozone. The autozone guy that did the test was a bit puzzled at first because the test meter kept reading in Japanese. Though he did finally get the codes, he said he can't gaurantee them since the engine is a year newer. But I explained to him the computer was not swapped and all the codes did turn up likely causes for the car problems. The codes read as follows.

500: Speed sensor (This has been replaced however and still comes up)

743: TCC

744: EPC

340: Cam sensor

443: EVAP

455: EVAP

750: Shift Selenoid

755: Shift Selenoid

760: Shift Selenoid

These are the codes that were retrieved.

My question is, what is the TCC & EPC and where would I locate them?

Also, where is this shift selenoid? Is this an internal transmission problem or is the shift selenoid on the outside of the tranny?

I sure appreciate your help. It would be nice to resolve these problems:)
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Tuesday, September 11th, 2007 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0743 TCC Solenoid Circuit
I am going with the torque converter clutch cicuit! Intermittent, could be broken wire or loose connector. I can tell you there is a Technical service bulliten on your year tranny...for the TCC!


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_InterTest_copy_2.jpg


the 744 code you gave me should actually be p1744
Call Ford and ask for approxiamate repair cost.
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Tuesday, September 11th, 2007 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
STEADYHAND
  • MEMBER
I traced the wiring from the V.S.S. And discovered the wires were burnt really bad. The entire outer coating was burnt completely off. I bought some automotive wiring and spliced new wiring into the harness and now the speedometer is working. The transmission is also shifting much smoother. But I still can't find the TCC & EPC? Actually, I'm not even sure what the EPC is for to know where to look. Can you tell me where I might find these two items? Thank you for your help.
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Wednesday, September 12th, 2007 AT 3:15 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Have you read my reply? I think someone copied EPC wrong, ther is no such animal! Code p1744 is probably the code that came up not P0744!
Clear the codes and see if the MIL comes back on, then write the numbers down, if you fixed burned wiring, you may have solved at least some of the issues!
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Wednesday, September 12th, 2007 AT 4:23 AM
Tiny
STEADYHAND
  • MEMBER
I had autozone clear the codes and shortly later the MIL light came back on. So far however only one code is showing up and it is 340 (cam sensor). I plan to replace this as soon as the part arrives since they had to order it. My question is, could/would the cam shaft sensor cause a rough idle or improper fuel/air mixture?

Thanks again :-)
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 3:44 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Yes it will! It throws the timing off. Solve that and you should be good to go!
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Thursday, September 13th, 2007 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
STEADYHAND
  • MEMBER
I have since made great progress with this car. I finally got a sycronizer and cam sensor put on. However, I did not have the correct tool to ensure I was getting the exact timing. I did remember "about" where the old syncronizer was set so I installed it the best way I knew it to be before. Now the check engine light is off and has remained off for several days now. I don't have any codes popping up, but for some reason the engine is still rocking back and forth causing the whole car to vibrate. If I rev up the engine causing the RPM to rise, the car will not vibrate as bad. It only occurs when the car is at an idle. It does this while in park or in gear. Once the engine warms up I honestly can't say the idle seems bad enough to be causing such a rough vibration. Nevertheless it is stiill there and very annoying. My question is, could the timing be off a notch or two and cause the engine to rock back and forth with a rough idle but the check engine light not be on? Also, given the severe forward and backward rocking of the engine, is it more likely it is a bad motor mount instead of a bad idle? I honestly don't hear a miss to the engine. I don't notice a hesitation when I press the accelerator. It doesn't spit and sputter any longer and I no longer smell burning fuel as I did before. Also, the tachometer is showing a steady idle. It is usually a little over 1000 RPM when the engine is cold and idles at 700 to 800 when it warms up. But for some reason the vibration is felt throughout the entire car. When sitting inside in the passenger compartment, you can see the rearview mirror vibrating and loose change slightly moving around. So as you can tell by the description, the feel inside the car is not comfortable. I have looked at the motor mounts and they are some kind of hydraulic oil filled mounts. I honestly don't know anything about these kind of mounts but I don't see any kind of fluid leaking from them. (Assuming they might if bad) Without a check engine light I really don't know what to check next. Since many of the problems are gone now that a good syncronizer is on and the tach shows a steady idle, I'm wondering if the problem is even with the engine. Any advice would be greatly appreicated. Thank you.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2007 AT 1:48 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
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It won't hurt to set that cam sensor up right.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2007 AT 6:15 PM

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