Engine not starting

Tiny
RMOORE009
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
I am having problems with my car. When I go to start it, it will turn over making a grinding noise but wont start. Every time I try to start it, it makes a grinding noise. It was working fine yesterday afternoon.
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Friday, June 5th, 2009 AT 8:54 AM

146 Replies

Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
It sounds like the battery is low on charge if it is more than three years old I would replace it. If the battery is good then the starter needs replacement. Here is a guide that will help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

I would remove the battery and take it to your local parts store and have it tested to make sure it is holding a good load. Call around first to make sure they test battery's and starters. Then if that tests okay remove the starter and have them test it. Let me know how it goes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
KEVIN1127
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 210,000 MILES
Well I had the car for a week and replaced the starter the alternator the battery and the AC compressor froze up so I bypassed the pulley. Worked great for about two weeks. Wednesday I drove to work just fine 6:00 am. When I got off 3:30 pm my car started fine but squealed louder then any car I have heard. Me begin embarrassed I drove off a short distance down the road I pulled over popped the hood turned the ignition off and took the key out the car was still running but at a very low idle and still squealing. I saw no problems so closed the hood and put the key back in and turned to on. The car jumped up to normal idle and stopped squealing. Thinking it was okay I drove about thirty minutes it drove great. When I got back to the car it would not start. Turn ignition to on all lights work all power works, try to start it and nothing no click clank clunk nothing the motor does not even turn over. Tested the battery, alternator, look at serpentine belt tension everything good. So I thought okay maybe starter. I jumped the starter off my battery it spins fast. And free but still would not turn motor. Any ideas? Please my kids start school in one week and I am about to be fired.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Sounds like the starter drive is broke in the starter. A rebuilt one should take care of it or a new starter drive for starter. Unless there is some kind of engine damage.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN1127
  • MEMBER
That is what I was thinking because the starter still spins freely just does not engaged with the flywheel. Is there a way I can definitely ensure that is the issue?
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It is either the starter drive or teeth are torn off flywheel. There is not a test other than being on the car because if auto parts tests it they will say starter is good because they cannot load the drive. Meaning they cannot put like a load on teeth to see if it is any good or not.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN1127
  • MEMBER
Okay just got back from the car. Crankshaft turns freely so I no the motor is not seized. I turned it completely stopping every quarter and the starter still wont engage. If I take the starter out can I inspect the teeth on it? And weird to me when you turn the ignition to start it does nothing the only way the starter spins is if I put a hot wire to it. So I thought might be a voltage problem. I used a tester at connections from battery to solenoid and from solenoid to starter it is checking out fine. The only problem I found was a relay kicking and getting really hot. But it is the accessory delay relay so pretty sure it is nothing to do with that.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Try resetting your anti theft unit if no manual look online. I think you have finally relayed to me what is wrong.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MP_GIRL09
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
I have a new battery and starter in my car and it will not start. What else could be causing it not to start?
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
**No crank at all/nothing when key is engage to starting position

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GERALDWA
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
Front wheel drive automatic 104,000 miles.

When trying to start my car I get a clicking sound which seems to be coming from the relay/fuse box. Fuses are good. I tried shorting the relay and when I did, the engine turned over. Assuming it was the relay I went and got a new one only to have the same clicking noises continue. When jumping the car the clicking gets much louder and seems to be coming from deeper in the engine compartment, most likely the starter.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Shorting out the starter relay caused the engine to turn over-check and test the transmission range switch and ignition switch.
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-1
Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
COWENS
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 167,500 MILES
Replaced the engine with a 2005 block and heads. Intake manifold, plenum and wiring are from original 2003 engine. The engine cranks and has fire and fuel but will not start. I have checked spark, fuel pressure, compression, and electrical connections. Fires but does not start. Almost sounds like timing is premature.
Both motors are VIN S 3.0 OHV engines.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can only be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem is not present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That is what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the information required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the possitive terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
COWENS
  • MEMBER
As I stated in the post. All of these have been checked and are within range. No trouble codes are stored either. Letting the engine sit does not improve things.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
COWENS
  • MEMBER
NOID light test. Passed all injectors
Spark check test. Passed using OEM spark test tool set for ignition type
Fuel Pressure test. Passed, fuel rail does not have a valve for attaching a pressure tester, measurement obtained using an engine analyzer connected to OBD port to read fuel pressure at sensor. Within normal limits. 51 PSI
All cylinders between 150 and 165 PSI on compression test.

Motor does not start. If it had a distributor I would say it was off time.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FASTFREDDIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 109,000 MILES
When I start it it runs for a few minutes and then it sounds rough and then it stalls and will not start again. When I go out and try it later it does the same thing.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DR. HAGERTY
  • MEMBER
Check the fuel pressure and delivery.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
If all that were true and there was nothing wrong with the fuel, it would be running or at least backfiring to tell you it is cross firing. It has compression, fuel and spark. It has to fire so there has to be something wrong with the test results or the fuel. Try some starting fluid and see how it responds to that. In a rare situation I have seen a whacked out temperature sensor make it way too rich or way too lean to fire but the condition of the plugs would give you an indication of that.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
COWENS
  • MEMBER
Starting fluid did not help. Will be changing the cam and crank sensors to the ones off the old engine later to see if that makes any difference.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FUNONAME
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
Front wheel drive.

I installed a new starter and it still will not start. All I hear are clicking noises and it almost sounds like it is coming from the fuse box under the hood, the one that is right next to the battery. At first we thought it was the starter but we just put a new one in. Now we are lost and about to take it to the shop. We already checked the ground wires and any other wires around the car.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)

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