Engine Cooling problem
2002 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 161900 miles
The water from the cooling system is all leaking out. This happens when I drive the car and not when it is not running. The amount of fluid leaking has continued to increase to the point that if I were to drive it I would have to add nearly 2 gallons when I stop driving. The check engine light is on and I had that diagnosed at an auto store. One prob is it needs a tuneup and the other had to do with the crank sendor. Neither of these appear to me to be connected with the leak.
This all began when I was on the freeway and noticed the temp was on hot. I got off immediately at a parts store and let it cool off. Then put 2 gallons of antifreese mix in and continued to drive it. Althought the coolant continued it began slowly leaking and then continued to increase. The temp has never gone up again although it got low in coolant. I kept putting water (not coolant) in and driving until the leak incresed to the 2 gallon point. Now the reservoir has rust residue on it possibly indicating the cap is leaking preasure and water according to the Chilton manual. I am broke until the beginning of next month and hope that a new cap would allow me to drive the car. My question is could it be that that a faulty reservoir cap is the solution to the leaking?
Have to get the system pressure checked
do you have white smoke coming out the tail pipe when driving?
And if so suspect headgasket failure
check engine light code was that you need a tune up if it did say what cylinder is misfiring and if so remove spark plug and check for coolant
have to start with pressure test
August, 19, 2009 AT 10:50 PM
I just had that problem. The temp sensor that points up, on the passenger side of the thermostat manifold. Motorcraft part DY-961, stopped allowing the engine fan to activate. That sensor increases resistance as the temperature increases. The water overheated, apparently causing more pressure than the reservoir cap could allow to escape. The reservoir expanded and cracked on the bottom. Pissing very little, but enough to drain the tank on a 50 mile drive.
Fill the reservoir to proper level, with cap on, let the engine idle. If the fans fail to kick on before the cap releases steam, that sensor is bad. To test the fans, turn on the AC. If the engine is hot, and the fans don't cycle, you can unplug the connector on the sensor, and the fans should start.
Some have posted that a resistor can be added to the air flow sensor on the air box manifold, to adjust the temperature which the fans kick on. Two of those wires are part of the engine temp wiring. You can google that info. Might reduce heating capabilities in the winter.
August, 19, 2009 AT 10:55 PM
The 3.0 litre engine is steal heads, and steal block. Not an often mentioned problem with this motor. The 3.8 has a history of head gasket problems.
August, 19, 2009 AT 11:02 PM
Is the crank sensor external. The coolant could have got on the sensor.